Does this not effectively lower the frame side trackbar joint? If so, do you account for it by shortening the bracket or using a slightly dropped pitman arm?
Nothing I need, everything I want (2005 TJR, impact orange)
- Thread starter psrivats
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Does this not effectively lower the frame side trackbar joint? If so, do you account for it by shortening the bracket or using a slightly dropped pitman arm?
I relocated my frame side TB mount forward 3-4 years ago. If there was any impact on the steering from the fraction of an inch change in height, I have been unaware of it.
Of course. Whatever I do is on me every time I do it.
I had already planned to go the JJ route, but the Clevite direction just gave me something to think about.
Also curious about this mod.I know that curiosity killed the cat, but I'm not a catWhy move it?
I absolutely get why moving forward would help. I don’t get why, if you are going to the trouble, you would stick with the stock style mount (single shear JJ)? A double shear heim joint like in your avatar or double shear JJ seems 1) way stronger and 2) better at moving in the direction it needs to. What am I missing?
A second question is: Is an inch the practical limit for forward motion of the frame side track bar mount before you need to change the steering box location?
That is what I'd use it for when I did collision repair and body work. Inside of new rockers and any other parts getting sandwiched together where paint can't be applied.
The shop was right on the ocean and we used it religiously.
We have very few issues with the RJ trackbars. They are proven, they work, they last a very long time. The question asked is the wrong one. It is not that a rod end is stronger, it is whether or not the RJ is strong enough and it is. They have no strength issues. The other wrong question is whether a rod end moves more, it can but the RJ moves way more than needed.
Not at all. I routinely move the axle forward about 3". But I don't need that here, I'm solving a tiny little problem that isn't, but I like a bit more leeway when possible that is easy to do. I don't see value for this one of completely redoing the spring perches to set them back over the center of the axle tube.
I don't have any issues with the single shear aspect either. I know how to tighten stuff and if they are tight, there is no problem. The only time the stock mount has an issue is when it is abused as a habit. That's not gonna happen with this one.
When would there be value in centering the spring perches? What is the benefit, aside from keeping the springs from trying to roll the axle all the time.
Generally you need to do it to get the trackbar to get past the front of the spring. That is a can of worms no one really needs though unless they have knuckles that work with a completely different set of rules.
I can only imagine different knuckles on a different axle...or are we talking about the old junkyard big brake kits using WJ stuff and having to redesign the steering and trackbar?
WJ, JK, anything with a raised draglink steering arm. Draglink goes up, the trackbar has to follow. The only way it can be close to as long as the draglink is to move over to the right side (assuming LHD). Overhung springs get in the way of that so we move them back.
Build photos continue ...
Rubicrawler mated to the 42RLE (rebuilt and done perfectly this time). Blaine used the 3Bond sealant from Mopar which is really good stuff. The previous trans shop and/or the local shop messed up some of the bolts but Blaine took care of everything.
With raised belly skids, the tcase gets closer to the tub and a lot of heat can transfer into the tub and make the interior unpleasant on long drives if care is not taken. So Blaine ordered additional heat shielding which will mount under the tub (and the factory heat shield goes on top of it). While it was on it's way, he throughly prepped the underside properly and cleaned it several times so that the adhesive will bond properly. He also cleaned the factory heat shield and made it look spotless.
The new heat shield is pretty spiffy looking. Blaine taped all the edge with the heat shield specific joint tape, and also installed rivets with backup washers (both stainless!) in all the spots that have a tendency pull away. Then the joint tape was put on over the rivets to prevent water intrusion.
Blaine says this setup is very effective for heat control. It was a real treat when Blaine shared these photos ... getting everything to lay so neatly is not trivial and I was very appreciative of all the extra effort to make sure things stays good for a long time. You will see over and over that it's a recurrent theme in all his work no matter what he touches.
After he finished the heat shield work, he seam sealed the edges of the torque box to stop water from sitting in the flanges and starting corrosion. He left the holes open on the bottom in case it needs to drain.
Next the transmission was installed back, along with dipstick and tube, and the transmission vent line.
Rubicrawler mated to the 42RLE (rebuilt and done perfectly this time). Blaine used the 3Bond sealant from Mopar which is really good stuff. The previous trans shop and/or the local shop messed up some of the bolts but Blaine took care of everything.
With raised belly skids, the tcase gets closer to the tub and a lot of heat can transfer into the tub and make the interior unpleasant on long drives if care is not taken. So Blaine ordered additional heat shielding which will mount under the tub (and the factory heat shield goes on top of it). While it was on it's way, he throughly prepped the underside properly and cleaned it several times so that the adhesive will bond properly. He also cleaned the factory heat shield and made it look spotless.
The new heat shield is pretty spiffy looking. Blaine taped all the edge with the heat shield specific joint tape, and also installed rivets with backup washers (both stainless!) in all the spots that have a tendency pull away. Then the joint tape was put on over the rivets to prevent water intrusion.
Blaine says this setup is very effective for heat control. It was a real treat when Blaine shared these photos ... getting everything to lay so neatly is not trivial and I was very appreciative of all the extra effort to make sure things stays good for a long time. You will see over and over that it's a recurrent theme in all his work no matter what he touches.
After he finished the heat shield work, he seam sealed the edges of the torque box to stop water from sitting in the flanges and starting corrosion. He left the holes open on the bottom in case it needs to drain.
Next the transmission was installed back, along with dipstick and tube, and the transmission vent line.
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Can you and/or @mrblaine example this more?
I can't recall how the TJ heatshield is mounts but I have dealt with other vehicles with studs that use press-on (or starlock) washers to mount the heat shield.
Are rivets being spaced off (so they break with a small extension) with washers to enable this type of install?
While waiting for the additional heat shielding .. Blaine also started on new brake lines. They are stainless and there is a certain neatness and beauty to how Blaine lays them out and secures them. I will let him explain the technical details to those that are interested .
The photos also show just how spotless Blaine got the underside prepped for the heat shielding. Anyone that has cleaned off gunk from the bottom of our vehicles know how much effort must have gone into that
The photos also show just how spotless Blaine got the underside prepped for the heat shielding. Anyone that has cleaned off gunk from the bottom of our vehicles know how much effort must have gone into that
And while he was in there with the front fenders pulled, Blaine extended the steering riser by 1.25”. Can't even tell it did not come that way.
As I mentioned in one of the early posts .. this jeep is getting a Yukon big hub kit and 5x5.5 pattern wheels with the right specs.
Blaine assembled the rotors onto the bearing hubs using screw in studs. The rotor has a clearance hole for 1/2” and the flange of the bearing hub has been threaded to 1/2-20. Then he mocked up the hub kit on a steering knuckle to check the run-out. Both sides came out very good at .003.
The the setup was fit it into a wheel .. there is plenty of thread engagement with the studs.
I had spec'd the wheels with 4.25" center bore size. Plenty of clearance for the hubs.
I had followed @Mr. Bills recommendations for the center bore size from his thread below. His Procomp wheels for reference from that same thread. I will add a center cap like he did.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ersion-kit-and-vanco-16”-big-brake-kit.18025/
I am still very happy with how my wheels turned out. But if I were to redo my wheels, I would make two changes (1) specify a smaller bore size, like below (2) I would get dual air valves. The smaller bore opening is much cleaner looking esp near the lug holes.
Blaine assembled the rotors onto the bearing hubs using screw in studs. The rotor has a clearance hole for 1/2” and the flange of the bearing hub has been threaded to 1/2-20. Then he mocked up the hub kit on a steering knuckle to check the run-out. Both sides came out very good at .003.
The the setup was fit it into a wheel .. there is plenty of thread engagement with the studs.
I had spec'd the wheels with 4.25" center bore size. Plenty of clearance for the hubs.
I had followed @Mr. Bills recommendations for the center bore size from his thread below. His Procomp wheels for reference from that same thread. I will add a center cap like he did.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ersion-kit-and-vanco-16”-big-brake-kit.18025/
I am still very happy with how my wheels turned out. But if I were to redo my wheels, I would make two changes (1) specify a smaller bore size, like below (2) I would get dual air valves. The smaller bore opening is much cleaner looking esp near the lug holes.
Example or explain?
The mounting method for the factory heat shield is pretty clearly shown.
The factory uses screws from inside the tub screwed through the floor sheet metal and then a Pal nut. Any place it is double wall like under the seat riser, they use the same screw but from the under side.
Our heat shield is what covers under the factory stuff. We removed the factory shield, applied Heat Shield Products sticky back to the underside of the tub and then put the factory shield back in place.
The rivets we installed are to suck the new heat shield into depressed areas or mechanically secure edges that have tension on them and would try to lift. The rivets are stainless steel with stainless steel fender washers.
There are more reasons to convert to screw in studs. You can replace the rotor without the need for a shop press or beating the press in studs into place. There is a very limited selection of press in studs with the right knurl diameter and head diameter that work with the knurled section in the hub flange. ARP makes some longer ones for wheels that have thicker areas where the lugnut seats are. I don't know why anyone would want to pay 100 bucks for 5 studs though. That is a higher cost than the machining to convert to screw in studs and they are about 2.50 each.
A plus is more rotors and hubs are damaged with a shop press than is prudent. Folks tend to get after it that are not experienced in using one and that distorts the hub flange and rotor and then they will never run true. We know how but if that can be mitigated with a screw in stud set-up, all the better.
And lest we forget, another aspect of this build is the acquisition of any difficult to source part or oddball part that a normal mechanic shop would not readily understand or know how to source. As such, there is a set of drilled and machined rotors already done in the spare parts pile. In that same pile are the maintenance parts for the hub kit that would be needed for routine maintenance. Bearings, races, snap rings, seals, seal kits, spindle nuts, u-joints, and the slinger for the stub shaft.
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