So...where did you drill new holes to mount that wonderful mounting panel? I assume you installed nutserts?
Sri and I were talking about your solution on Friday and the foresight to do something like that, especially as most of us piecemeal things together and add on over time. Its a very clever idea.
So far, yes, but we are not in the salt and this rig will see some but not a lot. I would not expect it to be as good as one of the heavier body moisture cure polyurethanes.Are you still liking this paint? @mrblaine
Lot of folks have never paid attention to the studs that the harness restraints push onto. They are actually a 5mm x .8 threaded stud. The same studs are on the valve cover for the cruise control, accelerator, and kick down cable plastic retainers. When they get loose, we use a flange nut to make them behave. We used some nylocs with washers to mount the chase over the studs at the top.
The washers space the chase out since the firewall is not very flat.
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Bolted up, the nutsert to the right is for one of the Adel clamps that hold the main harness up.
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The lower part still moved a bit and had the potential to buzz against the firewall, so we made some clips, riveted them on, drilled through for a locator, and then put some nutserts into the corners.
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Our original plan was to use the two bolts that hold the firewall end of the grill strut rods. Two things changed that, they are not in the same plane and they are way offset from center or assymetrical in their side to side location. I could NOT come up with any aesthetic trimming that didn't look terrible so we abandoned that, used the hood hinges and coverted to the threaded studs as the mounting solution.
So far, yes, but we are not in the salt and this rig will see some but not a lot. I would not expect it to be as good as one of the heavier body moisture cure polyurethanes.
Visual center. The strut rods are not symmetrical. The chase was very off center and causing my OCD to go into meltdown.Hood hinges?
We did a few things. We made the chase easy to remove to access the ground points, then we extended the 12 gauge ground wire that comes out of the harness so it could easily reach. There is enough space behind the chase to undo the ground screws and remove the straps. It wouldn't be fun.Also, since you think way ahead, did you do anything different with the two grounding locations that appear to be behind the new aluminum mounting tray?
Help yourself. The connectors you see are held securely with our good zip ties. We drilled holes in the back corner and then just inward of the width of the connector so the zip tie threads through and when tightened, do not let the connectors move.Kinda glad I slacked off on adding any lights so far...I may shamelessly copy (poorly) this idea.
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Kinda glad I slacked off on adding any lights so far...I may shamelessly copy (poorly) this idea.
Visual center. The strut rods are not symmetrical. The chase was very off center and causing my OCD to go into meltdown.
We centered it off of the hinges, not the holes for the strut rods which is what we tried first.
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We did a few things. We made the chase easy to remove to access the ground points, then we extended the 12 gauge ground wire that comes out of the harness so it could easily reach. There is enough space behind the chase to undo the ground screws and remove the straps. It wouldn't be fun.
View attachment 566823
Help yourself. The connectors you see are held securely with our good zip ties. We drilled holes in the back corner and then just inward of the width of the connector so the zip tie threads through and when tightened, do not let the connectors move.
I had the opportunity yesterday to see the build up close. There a quite a number of trick mods both seen and unseen. Sri, you're going to have something special to enjoy.
Thank you Blaine is doing such good work. And now you know why I keep saying that I need to find time and energy for the write-ups that do justice to the insane attention to detail that is happening here.
@mrblaine have you come up with a mount for the switch panel side yet? Would love to see what you come up with on that.
Working on it.
I’ve been waiting for someone more knowledgeable than me to ask an intelligent question about Blaine’s newest teaser profile picture… No takers?! The curiosity is killing me!
View attachment 572837
At the risk of sounding clueless (I am!), what are we looking at here? Hydraulic lines? Electrical wiring and relays? Inquiring minds would like to learn.
I’ve been waiting for someone more knowledgeable than me to ask an intelligent question about Blaine’s newest teaser profile picture… No takers?! The curiosity is killing me!
View attachment 572837
At the risk of sounding clueless (I am!), what are we looking at here? Hydraulic lines? Electrical wiring and relays? Inquiring minds would like to learn.
They are color coded to match the direction of a small sensor equipped air cylinder on the end of the cable to shift the Rubicrawler. The fittings in the firewall are push to connect bulkhead so you can work on the system if needed. The compressor is controlled by a latching relay and pushing either of the momentary switches in the Switch Pro for high or low. Giving either a little tap turns on the compressor. Once it is up to pressure, push and hold either switch until the sensor trips the indicator light for high or low respectively. When you stop pushing the switch after the light trips on, that kills the solenoid, exhausts the pressurized air and relaxes the cable against the shift fork to stop excessive wear.Looks like air lines and the air solenoids used on arb compressors. Super cool he has them color coded to easy recognize which one is which. Why they go through the fire wall has me intrigued.