NP231 transfer case failure: a source for heavy vibration / grinding?

ChadH

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Feb 8, 2024
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Montana
Trying to sort out a very nasty vibration/grinding happening lately for the last year or so.

Last year I had a local shop service the TJ. They 'forgot' to put rear diff fluid back in. :mad::mad::mad:😞 10 miles down the interstate outside town, I came to a halt - and immediately knew what went wrong - not the first time I've seen a shop forget to replace fluids. Gears welded themselves together, broke, all kinds fun. Because covid, and because times are weird the only gears they could source were used. Dana 44 3.73's. Not even randy ring and pinyon or Yukon or anyone had any readily available. I couldn't wait 3 months for gears, so used it was with all new bearings (supposedly).

Since then less than 5K miles has been put on the TJ. Over the last couple months I have developed a very bad noise. With only one ear I cannot echolocate and can't 100% identify the source. Rear DS went in for a rebuild and straighten last month, along with the front. So I took it on the highway with only the front DS. The noise subsided, but not 100%, it was still heard/felt a little. With the rear DS back in it was obviously worse and removing the front DR ruled out the front diff. Starts at 45, and gets real bad at 60-65 and somewhat lessens at 70. I have driven it a few thousand miles and nothing has blown up yet. When off the throttle, it mostly goes away, as typical with rear end problems, but is sill there although significantly reduced. It is not the typical 'whine' noise from a poorly set rear-end. It has that too of course, but this is not the sound I'm talking about. It really sounds like something is about to give up and go ka-boom. Front wheel hubs were replaced along with the DS rebuilds as they were bad. I also used a laser temp gun to see if there are any abnormal temperatures at all bearing locations, trans, transfer, etc... Nothing is wildly higher than would be expected.

The fact that the noise still can be heard/felt with the rear drive shaft removed is throwing me off, and I just don't hear noises that well anymore. Pinyon does not have excessive play. The clutch, flywheel, pilot and throwout bearings need replacing but I dont think that is necessarily the source. Trans and transfer fluids are also new and no signs of obviously bad wear. The sound almost mimics an impact somewhere, like if the rear end or transfer was pushed right up against the tub, or if a t-case mount fell apart. I see no signs of that however. The only common dominator in this event is the recent replacement of the rear diff gears. The only other obvious issue is it's been so darn hot wheel weights to balance whee/tires are literally falling off. But, this is not a 'shake' kinda feel conducive to out of balance tires. Although I suppose that is a possibility but I think highly unlikely.

I am fairly confident the rear end is totally jacked, that it needs all new bearings, actual new gears, and even a carrier - maybe it bent from the heat of destruction. I am suspecting the bearings and races didnt actually get replaced. But I wanted to pose this situation here to see if any other suggestions are out there before I spend 2500 on something that doesnt fix it. TJ goes to the main 4x4 shop in town on Tuesday.

However, I would like to rule out if possible the transfer case. It has an advance adapters SYE, and teraflex 2-lo kit. It's never had issues, fluids were changed but looked fine no obvious problems. I've been seeing plenty of threads on transfer case failures last few days, serious enough that the housing totally busted apart. But I have only come across one thread that mildly talked about a gnarly grinding noise before failure.
 
So the SYE rules out that crazy balance wheel some of the TJs got on the back of the 231.

Even with the driveshaft removed your rear axle internals are still spinning.

I'd start with fixing what you know needs fixed...aka the rear diff.

What gear ratio do you want? What size tires are you running and what transmission?

-Mac

P.S. I think you've got the six speed and 33s so 4.88 at a minimum and a better 5.13 for Montana "hills."

P P.S. Ever run up to Pryor and see the wild horses? Awesome trip.

 
So the SYE rules out that crazy balance wheel some of the TJs got on the back of the 231.

Even with the driveshaft removed your rear axle internals are still spinning.

I'd start with fixing what you know needs fixed...aka the rear diff.

What gear ratio do you want? What size tires are you running and what transmission?

-Mac

P.S. I think you've got the six speed and 33s so 4.88 at a minimum and a better 5.13 for Montana "hills."

P P.S. Ever run up to Pryor and see the wild horses? Awesome trip.


Yeah I was thinking the same thing, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing a well known issue somewhere else. Hopefully I can get it to the shop tomorrow without something bad happening, not a fan of it being on the interstate at 70 in the current condition.

I am running 33's and the TJ has the NSG370 6spd. I am debating between going back down to 31's, or staying with the 33's. Part of that depends on the ability to lower it from a 4" lift to 2" since this is my daily. Part of that debate also hinges on being able to find a skinny 33. I haven't been able to find a good 3peak tire thats narrower than 12.5 for a 15" rim, so was thinking of dropping down to 31's. MT does have their BajaBoss in a 33x11.5 but only in a 17" rim. That just adds cost, and I would have to get rid of the G.E. gold wheels - which I know most people dont like anyway. I'm not sure that the suspension components will be able to drop to a 2" lift height without interference so I might be stuck at 4" - and 31's on a 4" is kinda funny. Isn't 4.88's be too deep even for 33's? That puts RPM's at 3K at 70. Highway speeds here are 80. If I did drop to 31's, even 4.56 would be in the 3K range at 70 and 3300 at 80.

I have not yet been to the Pryor's, but I have worked in every other forest in the state, and several in northern Idaho. Kinda funny I've actually done a lot more 4x4 roads (not really 4x4 roads) in my gov truck behind locked gates than the TJ has ever even seen. That should probably be fixed some day. If your ever in the state west of Missoula let me know, there are a few roads/overlooks I think you would like to explore. It looks like you had a pretty adventurous trip!
 
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My running joke is I do more gov work on the weekends volunteering for the Forest Service than I do during the week working for gov.

Pretty sure BFG has KO2s in 33 x 10.5. Had those on mine before I went to 35 KM3s.

What's your wheel offset? Mine are 3.75 so I was well set up for a wider tire.

-Mac
 
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My running joke is I do more gov work on the weekends volunteering for the Forest Service than I do during the week working for gov.

Pretty sure BFG has KO2s in 33 x 10.5. Had those on mine before I went to 35 KM3s.

What's your wheel offset? Mine are 3.75 so I was well set up for a wider tire.

-Mac

Hahaha.... same. Well not doing vehicle recovery stuff though. I put in far too many hours after hours, especially when theres a fire. WFDSS is such a PITA program.

I currently have the 33" KO2's. They are the worst tire I have ever owned and need to be replaced. Last year I realized they have zero grip in ice and they hydroplane super easy. Wheel offset is stock. Stock 'gold' ravine wheels. I think it's 4.75". For some reason that number is in my head. I do have 1 3/4" spacers that I would prefer to remove. I'm honestly probably better off with different rims. Also part of wanting to return to 31's to keep the stock rims. It's Jeep history, no matter how ugly they are haha.
 
Looks like you are committed to fixing it and not afraid to spend money to do it.

I wonder if it might help to change your approach. It sounds like you are trying to do the diagnosing and telling the shop what specific task you want them to do in hopes of fixing the problem. You might be better off taking it somewhere (that is reputable) and just tell them the symptoms, let them diagnose and figure out what needs to be done to repair. Like you said, don't want to spend 2500 on something that doesn't fix it.
 
Well...yes because this is my daily vehicle so it has to work well - especially with winter on the way. I'm not necessarily trying to diagnose it for the shop, but wanting to make sure I'm not missing another obvious problem. Kinda like how the 42RLE is often misdiagnosed as being bad when it's really the PCM that has a problem. The shop I'm taking it to tomorrow is the only one I currently trust to make a proper repair, although they have had a lot of turnover lately.
 
My running joke is I do more gov work on the weekends volunteering for the Forest Service than I do during the week working for gov.

Pretty sure BFG has KO2s in 33 x 10.5. Had those on mine before I went to 35 KM3s.

What's your wheel offset? Mine are 3.75 so I was well set up for a wider tire.

-Mac

It's the gears. They weren't set properly. SO we are going to do a full rebuild front and rear, mine as well do it all now since I'm going to re-gear anyway and the front end is getting sloppy as well. I'll be sticking with a standard open carrier for now (rear needs to be replaced) just due to cost and I need to get things ready for winter here. But we also discussed suspension stuff and I need to make a decision that is largely wheel sized based. If I stick with 33's (probably Mickey Baja Boss A/T's) then I will have to get different rims = more cost, and loosing the OEM G.E. rims, not that I necessarily like them but they are Jeep history. If I downsize to 31's then I can keep the stock rims, but then that opens up the can of what to do with the suspension. So I have some thinking to do.
 
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