NSG370 shifter off center

[vermeire]

HELP!! I was driving about 15 MPH in a parking lot and something started clanking. I stopped and then turned the Jeep off. I checked underneath and I wasn't spewing fluids so I figured I hadn't blown up my motor. I got back in and tried starting the Jeep; fired right up and sounded ok. I went to put it in gear and in order to get it into first I had to push the shifter as far as possible towards the driver's seat. Without any pressure on the shifter it centers but is still at an angle towards the driver's side. I drove it a few blocks like this and was able to find reverse to get it into a parking spot at the shop I use. Has anyone ever had anything like this happen before? I have some ideas but looking for feedback.

1) The whole transmission rotated. This might be the most favorable as I think it is an issue with the mount.

2) The internals are jacked. This is bad but I don't understand why I was able to drive it. I've never cracked a transmission open to see if that would even be possible...

3) Shifter/tower issue. Possibly the most simple to fix but I don't think this is likely.

 

[OldBuzzard]

If your engine is leaning to one side, it's a broken motor mount. That's the only way the whole tranny could lean.

The shift lever you grab bolts to a short shift lever in the top of the tranny. If that bolt came loose, the shifter could be pulled off, but shouldn't lean because it slides onto a flat which holds it in alignment.

I'm guessing something in the shift tower is broken. Sorry, but I haven't been in there on my Jeep.

 

[vermeire]

I didn't take note of the motor leaning when I had the hood open...but I wasn't looking for that either. I've only owned the Jeep since October. I had an issue with the fan hitting the shroud shortly after I purchased it and the solution was to remove the bottom part of the shroud. I had an enhanced inspection done and was told the motor mounts were fine. The inspector missed the front inside brake pad being down to the metal; maybe he wasn't as thorough as he should have been. Maybe new motor mounts will fix both problems.

Rockauto has mount kits in the $30 range and MORE or Brown Dog are $120+; are they worth it? Jeep is stock except a 2" spacer and 17" JK rims with 245/75 (measure out to about a 32") tire. I don't plan on any major modifications; will probably replace the spacer with springs at some point.

 

[SkylinesSuck]

My money is on broken motor mount. I also suspect the bolts that hold either the mount to the block or the mount to the frame are broken and/or missing.

 

[Mac57]

Your symptoms suggest something supporting your drive train is not right. The early warning sign was when the fan was hitting the bottom of the shroud. Removing the bottom of the shroud was not the correct fix to the problem. I'm with the others in suspecting motor mount problems, possibly transmission mount, possibly frame issues. Hopefully the shop it's at can identify what's going on. If you do need new mounts go wth rubber, poly has been known to cause vibes. And last get the bottom back on your fan shroud so your cooling efficiency doesn't remain reduced.

 

[macleanflood]

Not that it would cause this big of a rotation...I'd like to see pictures of your motor mounts...but missing dowel pins can cause a transmission to move a little.

Anchor makes a good replacement transmission mount if you can't find OEM. Might just want to replace em all.

Check your fan shroud for damage.

-Mac

 

[Rickyd]

Its an nsg370. I wouldn't be surprised if it was option #2 or #3. A quick inspection of the engine mounts and brackets would be smart before pulling the shift tower for a looksee.

Either way diagnose it before buying parts

 

[Jamison C]

Also make sure your skid plate is attached. I know that sounds silly but people have come here with that issue on more than one occasion.

 

[vermeire]

Your symptoms suggest something supporting your drive train is not right. The early warning sign was when the fan was hitting the bottom of the shroud. Removing the bottom of the shroud was not the correct fix to the problem. I'm with the others in suspecting motor mount problems, possibly transmission mount, possibly frame issues. Hopefully the shop it's at can identify what's going on. If you do need new mounts go wth rubber, poly has been known to cause vibes. And last get the bottom back on your fan shroud so your cooling efficiency doesn't remain reduced.

I know the fan hitting the shroud was a symptom; had I not just had an enhanced inspection and explicitly asked the inspector about the motor mounts I would have looked at them at that time. I should have been more diligent.

Not that it would cause this big of a rotation...I'd like to see pictures of your motor mounts...but missing dowel pins can cause a transmission to move a little.

Anchor makes a good replacement transmission mount if you can't find OEM. Might just want to replace em all.

Check your fan shroud for damage.

-Mac

It's probably rotated from 12 where it should be to a little less than 11 o'clock. Thanks for the info on the mounts.

 

[vermeire]

Got a call from the shop; voicemail said something to the effect of " there are 2 or 3 bolts that hold a bracket to the block that are busted off and your motor mount attaches to that". They think my best course is to pull the motor so I can remove or drill them out. That is beyond the scope that this shop is really capable of. I did some googling and found the block brackets he's talking about. Do you guys know if these brackets are mounted on studs or bolted to the block? I realize pulling the motor will give the best access but do you think it is 100% necessary? I see there are aftermarket brackets that use more bolts/studs; what is the possibility of leaving the broken bolts and only using the additional holes as a stop-gap?

I'm brain-storming... The Jeep is a third vehicle so having it down for a while isn't a burden but it sure is a bummer. I'm open to any and all suggestions. I haven't even laid eyes on the problem so plenty of you are more familiar with what I'm dealing with.

Thanks guys.

 

[Ocho]

Got a call from the shop; voicemail said something to the effect of " there are 2 or 3 bolts that hold a bracket to the block that are busted off and your motor mount attaches to that". They think my best course is to pull the motor so I can remove or drill them out. That is beyond the scope that this shop is really capable of. I did some googling and found the block brackets he's talking about. Do you guys know if these brackets are mounted on studs or bolted to the block? I realize pulling the motor will give the best access but do you think it is 100% necessary? I see there are aftermarket brackets that use more bolts/studs; what is the possibility of leaving the broken bolts and only using the additional holes as a stop-gap?

I'm brain-storming... The Jeep is a third vehicle so having it down for a while isn't a burden but it sure is a bummer. I'm open to any and all suggestions. I haven't even laid eyes on the problem so plenty of you are more familiar with what I'm dealing with.

Thanks guys.

this happened to me after an engine swap. all the bolts sheared off into the block.

remove the fender instead. gives all the access you need.

 

[Mac57]

The engine mounts use bolts to attach to the block. You will need to remove the busted bolts from the holes in the block to install a new mount, no other optional block holes to use that I know of.
Install all the bolts, not some.
Access to them to get them out is the issue. If they are not broken off flush with the block they could try soaking with a penetrating product, apply heat, then grab the broken stubs and try to twist them out.
If drilling them out is the only way then removing the fenders may help with access for that.

 

[TheBoogieman]

There's a warning about it on every XJ forum.

https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/warning-all-4-0-owners-check-your-motor-mount-block-bolts.594902/

 

[cpwolf]

There's a warning about it on every XJ forum.

https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/warning-all-4-0-owners-check-your-motor-mount-block-bolts.594902/

Whoa, this is a new one to me.

Is this often on a TJ? My 05, I got MML kit from Savvy and new Mopar motor mounts as well.

This might be the time to replace these bolts as a precaution? Not looking for work I don’t need to do, ha?

 

[SkylinesSuck]

I also suspect the bolts that hold either the mount to the block or the mount to the frame are broken and/or missing.

Got a call from the shop; voicemail said something to the effect of " there are 2 or 3 bolts that hold a bracket to the block that are busted off and your motor mount attaches to that".

Depending on what side they are on, it's doable and arguably easier than pulling the motor. Pulling the fender is a great idea. I removed a bolt like that with an angled drill once upon a time. It wasn't fun, but I got it done. If it's under the exhaust manifold though, it's going to be a bitch.

 

[Rickyd]

Removing the fender is an excellent idea. Motor removal would be a pain compared. I recommend a centering punch to shock the threads loose and put a dimple in the center of the bolt as a drill guide. Then use reverse rotation drill bits before the ez out. The broken sections could walk right out with the drill bit.

 

[vermeire]

remove the fender instead. gives all the access you need.

This is what I wanted to hear

The engine mounts use bolts to attach to the block. You will need to remove the busted bolts from the holes in the block to install a new mount, no other optional block holes to use that I know of.
Install all the bolts, not some.
Access to them to get them out is the issue. If they are not broken off flush with the block they could try soaking with a penetrating product, apply heat, then grab the broken stubs and try to twist them out.
If drilling them out is the only way then removing the fenders may help with access for that.

Thanks for the info on the bolts.

There's a warning about it on every XJ forum.

https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/warning-all-4-0-owners-check-your-motor-mount-block-bolts.594902/

I had owned an XJ for over 15 years before I heard about this problem. I wasn't driving my XJ much once I heard so I didn't do much research. I have to wonder how common this really is considering how many were produced.

Depending on what side they are on, it's doable and arguably easier than pulling the motor. Pulling the fender is a great idea. I removed a bolt like that with an angled drill once upon a time. It wasn't fun, but I got it done. If it's under the exhaust manifold though, it's going to be a bitch.

Drivers side is broken. I'll probably replace both sides just to eliminate the possibility of the other side going in the future. Hopefully removing the fender is enough.

I won't get to even start this for several weeks. If anyone has more suggestions I'm happy to hear them. I'll update if I make any progress.

 

[macleanflood]

I think I would pull the intake and exhaust header...jack up the engine a tad with a 2x6 under the oil pan...MIG on some washers and nuts and remove the broken bolts. Good time to check for cracked exhaust headers anyways.

I've rattled just about every bolt loose on my TJ. Now you've worried me and I have another set of bolts to check.

-Mac