NV 241OR Rubicon RocTrac transfer case swap into non-Rubicon TJ

Are you doing this swap?? If so I may be asking you questions one day.
Yes, I'm working in it right now. Kind of stock on the Yoke replacement as I need to re use my driveshafts until i swap the axles. Many conflictive info and Spicer seem to discontinue the correct yoke for this job.

I'm more than welcome to answer any question you may have. Hope I have the answers by then 😜!
 
Yes, I'm working in it right now. Kind of stuck on the Yoke replacement as I need to re use my driveshafts until i swap the axles. Many conflictive info and Spicer seem to discontinue the correct yoke for this job.

I'm more than welcome to answer any question you may have. Hope I have the answers by then 😜!
By the time I do it I just hope you remember doing the job. :ROFLMAO:

Could you not just use a conversion ujoint on the driveshaft as a band-aid until you get a new axle?

Do you have a build thread you are documenting this on? I already have this thread as a bookmark I could add yours also.
 
By the time I do it I just hope you remember doing the job. :ROFLMAO:

Could you not just use a conversion ujoint on the driveshaft as a band-aid until you get a new axle?

Do you have a build thread you are documenting this on? I already have this thread as a bookmark I could add yours also.
I’m doing this swap but keeping my 231J as I think using a rubicrawler with it its better option for some trails, but I need the 4:1 for the next two years trip in my schedule.

The conversion U-joints does not work on the CV joints and/or the flange yoke CV.

I’m working on my own swap tread thad will mention this one as well and will be add it to my built tread.
 
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I think the best thing about the 42lre is the ability to install a rubicrawler. With my NV3550 I only have a few options. The prices some people want for the 241 is insane. I passed on one a few years back for 1100 and I'm kicking myself now. All the ones I've seen lately are closer to 1,800.

Can't wait to read the write up.
 
I think the best thing about the 42lre is the ability to install a rubicrawler. With my NV3550 I only have a few options. The prices some people want for the 241 is insane. I passed on one a few years back for 1100 and I'm kicking myself now. All the ones I've seen lately are closer to 1,800.

Can't wait to read the write up.

True on the 42RLE...
What I have in mind was to add a rubicrawler to the 231J transfer case but the 241 shows up first and for $950.00 is a deal hard to pass but the end goal will be an ATLAS 2 speed. As you mention the current prices if you found spot one or two are over the 1,600.

For the NV3500 you can pick a Dana 300, flipped and add the 4:1 low max gearing and swap the output shafts, it is a project basically for the same price of a 241 and just 600 less than an ATLAS 2 speed but you end up with twin stick TC . It is one for sale in Michigan at the moment if you are interested.
 
True on the 42RLE...
What I have in mind was to add a rubicrawler to the 231J transfer case but the 241 shows up first and for $950.00 is a deal hard to pass but the end goal will be an ATLAS 2 speed. As you mention the current prices if you found spot one or two are over the 1,600.

For the NV3500 you can pick a Dana 300, flipped and add the 4:1 low max gearing and swap the output shafts, it is a project basically for the same price of a 241 and just 600 less than an ATLAS 2 speed but you end up with twin stick TC . It is one for sale in Michigan at the moment if you are interested.
Not at the moment. I have a bunch of other projects I want to get done as money is avaible. I don't feel like ripping out a T-case and getting the driveshafts reworked at the moment. When the time comes I was also thinking atlas 2 speed since as you said is not a huge leap from a 241 and brand new.
 
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Rook, a few things for you. First is your trans mount. You will ruin your transmission if you don't get the bolts tightened up against it. Get a bolt long enough that you can see the threads on top. Put two nuts on where you have one. Thread one nut up against the bottom of the trans and tighten it down so the soft cast aluminum isn't getting the threads hammered by the bolts. Thread the other one down against your plate like you have it now and tighten it. That will stop any damage that is going to happen.

Standard makes a switch that screws in there where the big one is now. It works opposite of the one in the 231 that closes a circuit to turn on the 4wd light so you dash light will work.

The 241 does shift backwards which is why the lever points up instead of down like the 231.

The shift linkage is very different and if you need some 241 specific, I probably have several. I would convert to a cable shifter if it was mine.

I would have also kept the balancer on the back of the case. I've had several conversations with Tom Wood about that and he strongly recommends it due to some funky harmonics the 241 develops with the right gearing combos.

Not sure why you couldn't find any write-ups on the swap, I've seen several over the years.

The connector for the t-case switch from Standard has a keyed slot that you will need to cut into your harness side connector.
do you have a link or part number that you refer to for the standard plug?
 
My information is correct. Not sure where you got yours from. I am currently using both of those parts on my swapped 241J.
I apologize, now that I re-read what you sent. You sent a completely different switch and connector part numbers. I thought you were giving me the part number for the connector to either the dorman 600-555 or the factory Mopar 5083138AA switch.

I will have to try those out out. I have a 05 LJ and just converted the 231 to 241 transfer case and I am finishing up the smaller items now.
 
Im not very good at explaining how I do things, so I will try and give you guys the basics thta was done to make this install complete.

1st off let me tell you the only thing that will bolt/plug right in, is the tranny and vent hose. I believe just for a 97-98 TJ jeep wrangler. Before I started my install I tried to get all my parts needed so I wouldnt be running around at the last minute. The NV241OR Rubicon transfer casecomes with 32 spline output shafts, on the front come with a 1330 cv yoke and the rear comes with a flange.

View attachment 8414

With the help from Coast Driveline in Ventura Ca. I was able to score 2, 1310 style yokes that will bolt right up to my current driveshafts.

View attachment 8415
1310 on left 1330 on right

I also noticed that the speedo gear and wiring was different from my NP231. The 231 has an actual gear, and the Rubicon transfer case comes with a magnetic speedo sensor. The new wiring does not plug right into the harness. Along with this, I knew the 4x4 light would also not work.

I did the wiring last, but I went to a local auto parts store and picked up a 3-wire connector that is weather resistant. One huge thing that helped out was a wiring diagram I got from TeraFlex. There SYE kit gives you the cennector you need and has a wire diagram chart for what color wire does what. The place I got the info has not been working since I used it, but ill give the color combos later.

So basically I thought I would have the most trouble with wiring and maybe some shift linkage stuff. It turns out that the Transmission mount will not clear the new and much larger NV241OR. I was kind of stumped at this point and actually got an used Rubicon skid plate to see if that would work. I soon found out the frame bolts would not line up right. I ended up buying new Grade 8 bolts for the mount and made about a one inch spacer

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this is the gap, because it hits on the lower pic

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so an easy fix(I know its not the best solution but it has been very solid so far and most of the weight is on the skid plate anyway)
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so now that I had the mount figured out, the size of the new case is not supposed to be used with the older style skid from 97-98. The newer cross member skid plates are much larger and have plenty of room for the Rock-Trac t-case. In order to make all the geometry in the shift linkage the same, and not have the case hitting the tub, I HAD to either put a body lift or a t-case drop.
this angle has to be even or links will rub

I just so happen to have my old (but brand new) 1 inch lowering kit. This works perfect, but I really dont like losing another inch of clearance so will probably be doing a body lift later on towards summer.

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One thing that really confused me was the shift pattern on the two cases. ON THE ACTUAL CASE they shift differtly. Its hard to explain unless you are looking at it in front of you.

Basically the rod im holding PUSHES down on the lever on the case(green spot), pushes down to get to 4LO. and the Rubicon transfer case it actually shifts upwards towards the tub of the vehicle.

View attachment 8422

you can see the different positions of the lever when they are both in 4low here:

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hopefully I am making sense when im showing these pictures, trust me this was a BIG project and there were tiems where I didnt think I would be able to pull it off, doing 95% of the work by myself and the Rubi case is NOT very light weight.

So along with my troubles with the shift linkage you CAN re-use old stuff. You can buy a new bracket from Skyjacker or Novak adapters but I was in a time constraint. The rod that goes from the shift handle(inside the cab) to the lever on the case has to be shortened a little less than an inch. I bought some small tubing and was going to cutt and sleev it to the size I need. Just to see if it would work, I just bent the rod. Luckily enough it works fine(for now).

View attachment 8424
so i just left it for now.
these are the 3-wire plugs I got:
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Im sure I left out a lot, but if anyone has any questions feel free to ask!!! I searched everywhere and got very little feedback so basically had to figuer it out as I went. Everything is solid and works great. I have not had any "real" testing done with the new 4:1 but from the my experiences on going through the neighors empty lot and short wall in front of our house all I can say is.....wow...Johnsone valley here I come..again! On the street in 4LO i slammed on my brakes and could not stop my jeep or stall it. I cant wait to get it out on some rocks. Well here are some more random pics! hope you enjoy!

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Hi Rook,
I tried sending you a PM but it would not let me, maybe because I’m too new of a member.
anyway, I have an 05 LJ I swapped in a rubi front and rear drive shaft, and a 241. I am having a few problems that you had and was wondering if you could clear it up for me.
1. I purchased a wiring harness off a 241 so that it would actually clip onto the position sensor of the T case. But my 4WD light is still not working correctly.
2. I understand I need to get a different rod or cut my current one, but I was having trouble finding that on Novak or sky jacker.

My Speedo is working I’m just not getting the light to turn off and it is not engaging properly due to the rod.
Hope you’re still on here!
thanks in advance.
 
Hi Rook,
I tried sending you a PM but it would not let me, maybe because I’m too new of a member.
anyway, I have an 05 LJ I swapped in a rubi front and rear drive shaft, and a 241. I am having a few problems that you had and was wondering if you could clear it up for me.
1. I purchased a wiring harness off a 241 so that it would actually clip onto the position sensor of the T case. But my 4WD light is still not working correctly.
2. I understand I need to get a different rod or cut my current one, but I was having trouble finding that on Novak or sky jacker.

My Speedo is working I’m just not getting the light to turn off and it is not engaging properly due to the rod.
Hope you’re still on here!
thanks in advance.
He hasn't logged in since feb 2020 so I doubt you'll get a response. @mrblaine has likely done this swap though.
 
Hi Rook,
I tried sending you a PM but it would not let me, maybe because I’m too new of a member.
anyway, I have an 05 LJ I swapped in a rubi front and rear drive shaft, and a 241. I am having a few problems that you had and was wondering if you could clear it up for me.
1. I purchased a wiring harness off a 241 so that it would actually clip onto the position sensor of the T case. But my 4WD light is still not working correctly.
2. I understand I need to get a different rod or cut my current one, but I was having trouble finding that on Novak or sky jacker.

My Speedo is working I’m just not getting the light to turn off and it is not engaging properly due to the rod.
Hope you’re still on here!
thanks in advance.
The 241 switch won't work in a non Rubi without more shenanigans than it is worth. The switch is a 4 position resistance based that the PCM reads to know what mode the case is in. Only when in 4low does the PCM send a signal to turn on the 4WD dash light. When that happens, the switch is powered up. If it doesn't happen, no power to the locker switch to turn on the locker pumps.

The best you will likely be able to do is get a reversed 231 switch and use that to trip the dash light.

The shifter should be easy if you can get someone to post up one that has been removed from a Rubi. I and others will have the complete mess from installing cable shifters you will be welcome to if it can be identified. I've got at least 20 mixed, but I don't know which is which so some way to tell one from another will get you what you need in that area for a bit of shipping.
 
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1. I purchased a wiring harness off a 241 so that it would actually clip onto the position sensor of the T case. But my 4WD light is still not working correctly.
There is a T-case switch that is almost plug and play that will give the correct 4WD indication. I will have to search for it, that is what I did with mine and it works perfectly.