NV 241OR Rubicon RocTrac transfer case swap into non-Rubicon TJ

Jorge Bolivar said:
O have never complete the troubleshoot of this but that sw needs a thicker or no O-ring to properly works, I think.
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Yep, that refreshed my memory. You need to keep the old O-ring out of the original 241 switch and put in on the new switch. Be careful not to bugger it up when removing it.
 
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You don't have to cut and splice the wires for the new 4wd switch. Easiest way is to unpin the factory weather pack connector and repin the factory harness using the connector from the AC Delco harness. You could also just use a male side weather pack with the proper "key way."

This is what I did on my 2000 and it worked well with no cutting of the harness.
 
Awesome! Thank you guys so much. The stuff just showed up today, so I’m going to try to get it in this week and I’ll report back. Appreciate the fast help on this!
 
I have rubicon axles in my Jeep. I’d love to do this swap and have the 4:1 rubicon transfer case. But the price will probably put it out of range for me for a while until I get some other stuff taken care of.
 
Or swap in an Atlas as I did. A dana 200 with a flip kit and 4:1 gears is also an option.
 
Where would I find the correct output shaft yokes for a 241 conversion that already has double carden driveshafts with 1310 ujoints? The rubicon 241 has a dampener on the rear which would be some sort of flat plate to bolt to the dampener then a yoke opposite of that. I guess I need to know the spline count of the output shaft on the front as I don’t have the case in hand yet. Unless the 231 yokes will work?
 
01TJ-Blues said:
Where would I find the correct output shaft yokes for a 241 conversion that already has double carden driveshafts with 1310 ujoints? The rubicon 241 has a dampener on the rear which would be some sort of flat plate to bolt to the dampener then a yoke opposite of that. I guess I need to know the spline count of the output shaft on the front as I don’t have the case in hand yet. Unless the 231 yokes will work?
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Or, you could simplify things and just use a Spicer 5-134X u joint. It's a hybrid 1310/1330 joint. At one point someone had a non-greasable version, but I can't seem to find it quickly.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CKP1PW/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Edit: Found one:
https://fortwayneclutch.com/product...l-joint-h-d-solid-non-greasable-sku-5-134xso/
 
Irun said:
Or, you could simplify things and just use a Spicer 5-134X u joint. It's a hybrid 1310/1330 joint. At one point someone had a non-greasable version, but I can't seem to find it quickly.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CKP1PW/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Edit: Found one:
https://fortwayneclutch.com/product...l-joint-h-d-solid-non-greasable-sku-5-134xso/
Click to expand...
The issue is that my drivelines have the “half ujoint” where they mount to the t case, there aren’t currently yokes on the tcase so the hybrid won’t work anyway. I need to figure out which yoke and flange yoke to use on the 241 with my double carden driveshafts that have half of the ujoints open and ready to mount to a yoke.
 
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01TJ-Blues said:
The issue is that my drivelines have the “half ujoint” where they mount to the t case, there aren’t currently yokes on the tcase so the hybrid won’t work anyway. I need to figure hour which time and flange yoke to use on the 241 with my double carden driveshafts that have half of the ujoints open and ready to mount to a yoke.
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Is there a local place you can take your driveshaft to and have a flange installed?
 
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The 3104-322CV is a winner.

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