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O2 sensor exhaust turbo question


Kevlarr

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Dec 10, 2017
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Los Angeles, CA, United States
Here are the old parts and the new parts. Notice anything missing? Of course the O2 sensors and the cats. This cheap eBay kit doesn’t care if I live in Ca.
Questions are: do I need to add threaded bungs(I have welding capabilities) ?
Or Install as is and the tuner will take care of the computer? Or option C. Keep the OG exhaust and fab the connections to and from my turbo so I can keep cats and OG sensors?

A70469D0-CC56-4ECE-822B-6AB21361C9DC.jpeg


D7CB725E-324C-4528-8A80-637B5054B7FA.jpeg
 

toximus

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Do I need all four?
The top 2 (pre mini-cat) which are on your OEM header are required. The engine WILL run without them but won't ever run right leaving performance and MPG on the table. Assuming you're retaining some of the stock tuning such as when you're not in boost it'll make a difference.

The lower 2 (post mini-cat) are for emissions monitoring only. I'm not sure if they will perform as the computer expects if you move them past the exhaust pipe cat since that cat won't fire as hot or quickly. I had them disabled on my ECU so I don't get a CEL for them since I'm monitoring my AFR separately and I figure that the environment is better off if I can actually read the AFR instead of letting my 7th injector run rich.
 
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Kevlarr

Kevlarr

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So it is possible to disable them in the ECU great news. I also understand better why it’s important for them to be close to the engine as well. now for the upstream O2 question. Do I have to reinstall two since it goes into a single pipe now? Or could I combine the wires and just have one upstream sensor?
And again thanks for your time it is highly appreciated.🤘🏼
Regards
Kevin
 

1RAD

Turbocharged
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Yeah, simply connecting all the wires together isn’t a good idea, an independent AFR sensor is likely the best solution.

You should probably discuss the issue with the individual that will be doing the tuning.
 
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Kevlarr

Kevlarr

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Yeah, simply connecting all the wires together isn’t a good idea, an independent AFR sensor is likely the best solution.

You should probably discuss the issue with the individual that will be doing the tuning.
I know it’s been over a week and “Flyin” Ryan has neither emailed or called...
 

1RAD

Turbocharged
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Not that I need it here, but mine is set up using the factory configuration and the PCM is tuned accordingly. Works well too, especially for DD use.

If Ryan is anything like the guy I used you may have to continue to contact him, my guy wasn’t real good at returning calls or emails, but once you got him on the phone he’d talk your ear off.
 
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Kevlarr

Kevlarr

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Not that I need it here, but mine is set up using the factory configuration and the PCM is tuned accordingly. Works well too, especially for DD use.

If Ryan is anything like the guy I used you may have to continue to contact him, my guy wasn’t real good at returning calls or emails, but once you got him on the phone he’d talk your ear off.
So you just tapped into the original exhaust at some point and kept all cats and sensors in their original positions?
 

1RAD

Turbocharged
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The Banks kit uses the factory exhaust so I didn’t have to change anything, I did upgrade to the Banks headers though, which still had the stock bung locations.
 
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Kevlarr

Kevlarr

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This is where I’m putting the upstream bungs. Probably 12” or so from OE position. Just can’t bring myself to take the header and intake off again. It took me a whole day to get the damn thing on with the intake manifold 🥴
D2D51240-50C2-43A7-BAF8-21B5E00DCA5E.jpeg
 

1RAD

Turbocharged
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Yeah, removing and replacing that thing is no party. You may run into some issues using both sensors on the same exhaust stream though.
 
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Kevlarr

Kevlarr

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That’s what I’m worried about but I want to have everything in place when the tuner is ready. If he says he can tune one out or he gets a good reading from bother then great. If not I can always plug one up and go from there. That’s my plan at this point. I’m sure it’ll all change 🤡