OE Mopar Sensors vs Aftermarket Sensors (Why You Should Always Use OE Mopar Sensors)

Chris

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Thanks to @Boinked for this one. This video shows live data on a OE Mopar crankshaft position sensor versus an aftermarket one. This video basically highlights why most of us are always shoving it down people's throats to always use OE Mopar sensors when you have the chance. The aftermarket ones you get from your local auto part store just don't cut it, and this video demonstrates why.


And just incase you need more evidence, here's a similar video demonstration on why you should always be using OEM (which is NGK / NTK) O2 sensors on your Jeep Wrangler TJ:


The moral of the story here folks is that when given the choice, you should always use OE sensors on any vehicle you own, not just your Jeep.
 
Thank you for the post.
I'd say I wasted money when I purchased Air-controller sensor (non-OEM) and I got rough idle.
Then, I had to purchase the OEM to fix this.

I'd go for OEM always when I have the chance, when it comes to sensors or electric parts.
 
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I found this thread when contemplating starting a new one. My old oil pressure sensor started going out on me and in a pinch I bought one from AutoZone and it worked fine... For a while. The previous one in there looked the same so I guess the previous owner replaced it too.

97 sport, so the gauge is mostly accurate to the sensor

Driving down the road my pressure would drop from 40 to 10. Then climb back up randomly. Fearing the worst I started calling around to shops for rebuild or replacement prices. And ordered a Mopar sensor with a large lead time. Just to rule out the sensor I also ordered a crown unit with a 2 day lead time.

Here's a table comparing the 3 sensors and their rough psi readings in different temps/conditions. Reference it if you are ever questioning a Mopar or after market sensor.

Cold as in cold start/just getting on highway
Hot as in highway for 20 minutes
Load is in 2500rpm

Code:
Brand       - c-idle - c-load - h-idle - h-load
AutoZone    - 45 psi - 45 psi - 10 psi - 45 psi
Crown       - 80 psi - 80 psi - 10 psi - 65 psi
Mopar       - 50 psi - 60 psi - 25 psi - 50 psi
 
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I found this thread when contemplating starting a new one. My old oil pressure sensor started going out on me and in a pinch I bought one from AutoZone and it worked fine... For a while. The previous one in there looked the same so I guess the previous owner replaced it too.

97 sport, so the gauge is mostly accurate to the sensor

Driving down the road my pressure would drop from 40 to 10. Then climb back up randomly. Fearing the worst I started calling around to shops for rebuild or replacement prices. And ordered a Mopar sensor with a large lead time. Just to rule out the sensor I also ordered a crown unit with a 2 day lead time.

Here's a table comparing the 3 sensors and their rough psi readings in different temps/conditions. Reference it if you are ever questioning a Mopar or after market sensor.

Cold as in cold start/just getting on highway
Hot as in highway for 20 minutes
Load is in 2500rpm

Code:
Brand       - c-idle - c-load - h-idle - h-load
AutoZone    - 45 psi - 45 psi - 10 psi - 45 psi
Crown       - 80 psi - 80 psi - 10 psi - 65 psi
Mopar       - 50 psi - 60 psi - 25 psi - 50 psi

The scary part is what are we going to do now that Mopar no longer makes parts for our vehicles 😮
 
The scary part is what are we going to do now that Mopar no longer makes parts for our vehicles 😮
I'd just jumped in here to ask a related question to that, but that may have just answered it. Back when my OPDA drama started, I had read that the new Mopar sensors were also leading to a CEL being thrown. Anyone know if that's still the case?
 
I'd just jumped in here to ask a related question to that, but that may have just answered it. Back when my OPDA drama started, I had read that the new Mopar sensors were also leading to a CEL being thrown. Anyone know if that's still the case?

Mopar sensors work fine to my knowledge, it’s the Crown ones and other brands that have issues.
 
If anyone has a lead on original late-model cam and crank positions sensors, please let me know. I’ll pay pretty well for them (my OEM replacements from mopar have kicked codes in cold weather like we get from time to time here in CO).
 
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Mopar sensors work fine to my knowledge, it’s the Crown ones and other brands that have issues.
I had problems with 2 new Mopar sensors after replacing the OPDA. Found a original sensor and haven’t had any issue. I also changed the OPDA again when I replaced the sensor.

It's been 5-6 years or so since I was researching heavily and following along with updates from others, but what Frank has said here was the same issue that all of the others were running into. When my OPDA problem first started, I had no idea what was going on, so I took it to a shop, which resulted in a (I think) a Duralast OPDA installed and my original with sensor either sent in with the OPDA core, or trashed. Later finding out that original crank sensor was worth it's weight in gold. Everyone following was searching hard and heavy for any original sensors, so I'd imagine they have all been grabbed up by now. If not, I'm interested in buying one also.
 
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If anyone has a lead on original late-model cam and crank positions sensors, please let me know. I’ll pay pretty well for them (my OEM replacements from mopar have kicked codes in cold weather like we get from time to time here in CO).

I wonder if the codes from new Mopar sensors are the result of not doing the cam-crank relearn procedure with a drb3? Or did you have that done after replacing them?

Also curious whether the general philosophy or "aftermarket sensors bad" extends to tps and map sensors. Those are really simple devices, comparatively, and I would expect easier to get right.
 
I wonder if the codes from new Mopar sensors are the result of not doing the cam-crank relearn procedure with a drb3? Or did you have that done after replacing them?

I did not. I had my Jeep serviced one time only attempting to address what ended up being PCM issues, but I was a month into owning it and didn't know what I do now. I didn't see the issue last year, however, but I wasn't in as cold temps as before. I'm wondering if mine was related to the PCM issues.
 
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