Oil Pan Skid Plate: Pros and Cons?

I want to protect my oil pan an I'm not ever planning on a tummy tuck, so I was wondering if this type of skid plate is worth the dollars? Pros and Cons of this type skid.

http://www.metalcloak.com/Wrangler-Oil-Pan-Skid-Plate-p/2701.htm

From what I've read, that style of skid bolts to the bell housing and the engine block. My only fear there is if you came down on something hard enough to crack the block or bell housing. That, and it doesn't protect the trany pan.

With that being said, I plan to purchase this unit for my needs. The price is right, it's easy to install, and I'm not an idiot with the skinny pedal, so any rock crawling I might do, I would be weary of my surroundings as I negotiate obstacles. I have a manual trany, so no pan to protect there, and like you, my tummy tuck is far down the road, and will be a mild tuck.
 
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I'm not sure that there would be any cons to a skid like this. The design is very similar to the Teraflex version that I have. I will say that I love my Metalcloak lift and sliders. Great products and customer support.
 
I installed a very similar style oil pan skidplate years ago and a rock soon snagged it and ripped it off. It pulled a couple of the bolts out that were holding it in place since the locations where its bolts thread into are not all that strong. I would not go with that type of skidplate again, I have yet to see a small size skidplate made for that area I'd bother installing. I ended up with a full-size skidplate that extends from the t-case skidplate all the way to the front of the engine.

This is very similar to what I've been running for about ten years now and it holds up to my 'drive by braille' style. Skid Row made the one in the below photo at http://www.skidplates.com/Engine_97_TJ.asp which is similar in concept to what is on my TJ that is no longer made.

JP-0019_Install2_Wi-FromBack.jpg
 
Since we're on the oil pan protection theme do they make stronger oil pans? Like differential covers.
 
I installed a very similar style oil pan skidplate years ago and a rock soon snagged it and ripped it off. It pulled a couple of the bolts out that were holding it in place since the locations where its bolts thread into are not all that strong. I would not go with that type of skidplate again, I have yet to see a small size skidplate made for that area I'd bother installing. I ended up with a full-size skidplate that extends from the t-case skidplate all the way to the front of the engine.

This is very similar to what I've been running for about ten years now and it holds up to my 'drive by braille' style. Skid Row made the one in the below photo at http://www.skidplates.com/Engine_97_TJ.asp which is similar in concept to what is on my TJ that is no longer made.

View attachment 24610

This one also seems to do away with a lot of the stock TC skid's shovel affect.
 
The Skid Row Jerry referenced is what I am going to put on mine. I like the more complete coverage and with the 2.4 there are few options. The MC, like Jerry ran into, looks like it could be torn away and/or collapse on a big hit.

Since we're on the oil pan protection theme do they make stronger oil pans? Like differential covers.
Probably not. The point is to not come down hard on the engine. A harder/thicker pan may hold up but would end up doing damage to motor mounts or something else.
 
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I opted for the skid row engine skid, which I would recommend over any of the oil pan skids. It provides protection for both the oil pan and thetransmission pan, and eliminates the "shovel" of the stock transfer case skid.
 
Cons:
Bolt in to the block.
Design seem weak.
Pro:
El Cheapo.

I was looking the Skid row shown above as I do have many other skids from them until decide to go ahead and Tummy Tuck. Now probably goes with the UCF Aluminum.
 
Don't use an engine mounted oil pan skid!

When that skid hits a rock, think of where the jeep's weight and momentum is going. Through the threaded bosses on the engine block and into the engine brackets and mounts, which are not designed to take that kind of weight and force. There are plenty of documented cases of the engine mounting bracket bolts shearing off in the engine block just from normal use and age, adding oil pan skid impacts will not help that issue. Plus an engine mounted skid does nothing to protect the transmission. Sacrifice an inch of ground clearance and get a proper frame mounted engine/trans skid.
 
Had one of those weld on plates on an old CJ-5 that peeled the pan off instead of just a dent. I'd go with something that doesn't mount to the engine. What about the Rubicon front skid? It bolts to the trans skid in back and to a cross strap bolted to the lower control arm mounts?
 
... What about the Rubicon front skid? It bolts to the trans skid in back and to a cross strap bolted to the lower control arm mounts?

The late model automatic skid hangs low and can interfere with the front driveshaft.
 
... What about the Rubicon front skid? It bolts to the trans skid in back and to a cross strap bolted to the lower control arm mounts?

The late model automatic skid hangs low and can interfere with the front driveshaft.
 
I'm running the Tomkin that can be found here:

https://www.mcssl.com/store/tomken/under-carriage-skid-plate-
I like how the front attaches via a crossmember that attaches to the frame. It has taken many direct hits and keeps on rocking. The skid row is nice as well.
Could you take photos of yours installed, particularly where it attaches in front and back?
Sure, I'll do so tonight. The front is really the only interesting part. The rear just attaches with 2 bolts on the transfer case skid. I've run it on the stock skid and now a Barnes bolt on skid. I'll take pics of both though.