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OME 2.5" lift kit: tips and tricks for a smooth install

BeavisTJ

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Hey so I have purchased a set of Old Man Emu 2.5 inch lift springs and shocks for my TJ second hand. I am about to tackle the task but before I do does anyone have any tips for installing?

This is my daily driver and won't have the luxury to be out of action for too long; or be able to get a special tool I might need from the hardware store once I start. So apart from basic hand tools and instructions anything I should be aware of? Or any problem areas that could be an issue?
 

Chris

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The biggest thing I would watch out for is the rear upper shock bolts.

Get under there before even taking it apart and see what kind of condition they are in. If they are rusted to hell like a lot of them, you're going to have a hell of a time getting them out. In that case, you'll want to soak them in Kroil or Liquid Wrench (not P.B. Blaster) at least 24 hours in advance, making sure to soak them multiple times throughout the day while the vehicle is sitting.

Don't bother using spring compressors either to install the new springs, that just makes it more difficult. Instead, do it the proper way and let the axles free hand from the control arms. This is done by unbolting the track bar axle mount, driveshafts, tie rod ends (in the front), brake calipers, and sway bar links.
 
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BeavisTJ

BeavisTJ

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Don't bother using spring compressors either to install the new springs, that just makes it more difficult. Instead, do it the proper way and let the axles free hand from the control arms. This is done by unbolting the track bar axle mount, driveshafts, tie rod ends (in the front), brake calipers, and sway bar links.

I was originally thinking of short cutting it with spring compressors but after reading and viewing some videos I think I agree with you. So I'm just disconnecting everything that is attached to the axle except control arms?
 

JMT

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Some you can simply loosen, others you want to remove

To change springs

1. Loosen wheel lug nuts on front wheels
2. Chock rear wheels
3. Lift Jeep at front differential by placing a rag over floor jack pad to protect the differential
4. Place jack stands under frame behind lower control arms
4. Lower floor jack until frame rests on jack stands but leave floor jack under differential
5. Remove wheels
6. Raise floor jack under axle next to differential
7. Remove lower shock bolts
8. Loosen track bar at axle side
9. Loosen lower control arms
10. Remove sway bar links
11. Lower the floor jack slowly
12. Springs should come out
13. If not, move jack to C on opposite side of axle and jack up. Opposite side spring should come out.

Torque Specs

Shocks Front (lower) 21
Shocks Rear (lower) 74

Track Bar Front (@Axle) 55
Track Bar Rear (@Axle) 74

Sway Bar Front (lower) 70
Sway Bar Rear (lower) 40

Lower Control Arms Front (@Axle) 85
Lower Control Arms Rear (@Axle) 130

Lug Nuts 85-110
 

JMT

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Do you have the yellow 10mm spacers too? They will get you to 2.5” or so, otherwise only 2.11”. What about rear track bar relocation bracket? Bump stops?
 
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BeavisTJ

BeavisTJ

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Do you have the yellow 10mm spacers too? They will get you to 2.5” or so, otherwise only 2.11”. What about rear track bar relocation bracket? Bump stops?

I've contacted ARB to see if they sell those separately along with track bar, bump stop extensions and transfer case spacer. I have most in an Amazon cart waiting to go but that's from the US so if the price isn't too much I'll buy them here (Aus).

Good to know about the yellow spacers. Was curious about that.
 

JMT

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I've contacted ARB to see if they sell those separately along with track bar, bump stop extensions and transfer case spacer. I have most in an Amazon cart waiting to go but that's from the US so if the price isn't too much I'll buy them here (Aus).

Good to know about the yellow spacers. Was curious about that.
As someone mentioned, you’ll have a rake if you don’t compensate with a taller spacer up front. I have a 1” spacer in front and the 10mm in rear.

Real lift I get is 3” front and 2” rear with hardtop and 2.5” rear without

I have a winch and aftermarket bumper up front
 

Chris

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I was originally thinking of short cutting it with spring compressors but after reading and viewing some videos I think I agree with you. So I'm just disconnecting everything that is attached to the axle except control arms?

Trust me, the spring compressors aren't a short cut. It seems like that, but I made the mistake of using them the first time I installed a TJ lift (which happened to be the OME 2.5" lift), and it was anything but a short cut.
 
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Ron Hall

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Be sure and get the frame of your jeep high enough to start with. That is going to take large jack stands. As stated, spring compressors are awful. Using that jack on the opposite C will get you enough tilt. On my bump stops, I drilled the center of the front spring perch for the self tapping bolt that secures the front bump stop extensions. While you have that side of the axle down you have the clearance for a ac drill. It is a formable task for a battery drill. You can get between the springs to actually bolt them down.
 

bobthetj03

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When you get the rear TB relocation bracket, you'll need to drill a hole in the axle side bracket. It's best to do this while the springs/shocks are removed so you can cycle the axle down to clear the gas tank skid for a drill.
 
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MountaineerTom

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I've contacted ARB to see if they sell those separately along with track bar, bump stop extensions and transfer case spacer. I have most in an Amazon cart waiting to go but that's from the US so if the price isn't too much I'll buy them here (Aus).

Good to know about the yellow spacers. Was curious about that.

Quadtratec has them. https://www.quadratec.com/products/16090_6079.htm
 
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BeavisTJ

BeavisTJ

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Queensland, Australia
Do you have the yellow 10mm spacers too? They will get you to 2.5” or so, otherwise only 2.11”. What about rear track bar relocation bracket? Bump stops?

Ok I will look at ordering some of the spacers too. I want to squeeze every millimetre out of the lift.

Yes ordering the bump stops and track bar relocation bracket.
 
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BeavisTJ

BeavisTJ

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Sep 27, 2018
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Location
Queensland, Australia
Be sure and get the frame of your jeep high enough to start with. That is going to take large jack stands. As stated, spring compressors are awful. Using that jack on the opposite C will get you enough tilt. On my bump stops, I drilled the center of the front spring perch for the self tapping bolt that secures the front bump stop extensions. While you have that side of the axle down you have the clearance for a ac drill. It is a formable task for a battery drill. You can get between the springs to actually bolt them down.

So the bump stop extensions at the front are on the axle spring perch? Is that what you're saying?
 

JMT

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So the bump stop extensions at the front are on the axle spring perch? Is that what you're saying?
No, but what he’s saying is that many bump stop kits just send you a longer bolt so you can extend them above the cup on the upper perch, but you should not put them there. The reason is the longer that gets the more likelihood the edge of the cup will rub your springs (mine did). To avoid that, the proper way is to tap a threaded die into the lower front perch and put your bumpstop there. Works like a charm.
 
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BeavisTJ

BeavisTJ

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No, but what he’s saying is that many bump stop kits just send you a longer bolt so you can extend them above the cup on the upper perch, but you should not put them there. The reason is the longer that gets the more likelihood the edge of the cup will rub your springs (mine did). To avoid that, the proper way is to tap a threaded die into the lower front perch and put your bumpstop there. Works like a charm.

Ahh yes I understand. Thanks for the clarification. I'd imagine it would become even more of an issue on bigger lifts.
 

TurboTJ

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The OME 2.5 inch kit does not have bump stop extensions for the front, only for the rear. The rear extensions are 20 mm which are inadequate to prevent their trackbar relocation bracket from hitting the tub. You really need 1.5 inch extensions.