That explains a lot of different opinions people have on paint. Or things that they paint that don't seem to turn out.While I may not apply as many coats of paint as mentioned above, there is one very important thing to keep in mind when applying extra coats of enamel like from Rustoleum or Krylon. READ THE DIRECTIONS where it describes how long you have to apply an additional coat or two, which is usually 30 minutes to no more than an hour. Then after that initial 30-60 minute window, you MUST wait no less than 48-72 hours for it to completely cure before adding any more coats.
If you try to add another coat of paint after 30-60 minutes but before 48-72 hours have gone by so it can finish curing, the paint WILL craze and the paint job will be ruined.
It all depends on the paint. Some paint states to recoat within 24 hours with average dry times, others are longer. If you recoat after the first window which is the typical cure time, you have to treat it like a new surface that gets prepped. Uncured paint can be recoated within the dry time given average conditions that don't accelerate it. Some paints I've seen have a 7 day cure time which is annoying if you get busy and miss the window.That explains a lot of different opinions people have on paint. Or things that they paint that don't seem to turn out.
I have to be honest. I read the directions and I always start with light coats. But I'm sure there's been times when I came back the next day and added another coat. I just assumed 24 hours must be enough. I'm apparently not reading the instructions clearly. As I've always thought "leaving it overnight" was always enough.
How many posts have we read about this paint or that paint? Working or not working? I don't think a lot of guys realize this 48 hour rule.
25 psi is entirely appropriate for a 33x12.5 load range C tire supporting a vehicle with the weight of a Wrangler. The current OME Nitrocharger Sport is notorious for being significantly stiffer riding than their previous Nitrocharger. My recommendation is to replace the shocks with the Rancho RS5000X which will give a significantly better ride. My previous RS5000X shocks gave both a great street ride and superb offroad control.
Your stiff ride is definitely not being caused by the springs. They're not what give a good or bad ride.
I'm running the 9000xl shocks now but I was just as happy with how well the RS5000X worked. Maybe happier with them since the 9000xl shocks make me feel guilty if I'm not constantly adjusting them for different conditions lol.Jerry - are you still running the 5000x or the 9000 series?
Trying to get folks to understand how some of it works is just painful. For some reason, how much shock travel at ride exists and how that is biased towards up or down travel is very difficult to grasp. Couple that with the rarity of swapping in different springs that net the exact same ride height and the pain rises exponentially.I had no part in this thread, but I just read through the whole thing and learned a lot! Suspension is the one area I’m still trying to wrap my head around and understand. So thank you suspension experts!
I hope I'm not speaking out of turn, but what he's saying is that you need the right spring - shock combination. This is not always an informed decision people make due to the fact they don't really want to take the time to understand all this. They just want to buy a kit, slap it on their TJ and have it make room for bigger tires and run like a dream. This is unrealistic at best and sheer fallaciousness at worst. No kit can tell you how much lift their kit will give your TJ.Mr Blaine, so can it be assumed that if the spring is a high rate and weight is low then the shock itself is not being able perform properly? Would the only real fix be more weight or lower rate spring? I’m lost on all this but it seems both spring and shock have a part in this. Sorry if this response sounds uninformed..
Older OME Nitros were valved more for our TJ's than the newer OME Nitros. That's why you get conflicting reports.Lots of good information!
I choose OME because of reviews I had read that stated they were less stiff than the Bilstein's I was replacing...and they certainly feel better to me. But I'm hearing here that the OME's are stiff and the Rancho's are much more supple. Well, the ride on my '06 Rubi is actually pretty nice with it's RE shocks and I was planning on trading the fronts out with the OME's before I sell the '01, just to compare and decide which to keep.
Later, if I feel the need for different shocks, then I'll definitely keep the Rancho's in mind.