Opinions on painting Rancho shocks

Not_Invented_Here_

TJ Enthusiast
Jan 15, 2019
104
Kansas City
Tomorrow I'm swapping out the original factory springs and shocks for Moog's (3226/3227) and Rancho Rs5000x's (RS55128 and RS55240).

My question(s):

1) Am I throwing money away if I don't opt to sand/paint these shocks? The threads about them rusting have me nervous. Even my untrained eyes can easily see that they have a pretty cheap paint job on them.

2) If I do opt to sand/spray paint them, is it a job that can be accomplished in an evening/overnight? My window to install these is kinda tomorrow morning only, for the near term at least. I had planned more prep time but the parts arrived late. I basically would have a few hours tonight to apply 1-2 coats and then overnight to early AM for them to dry.

3) For the rear shocks, it's recommended to just cut through the plastic and remove the boot right?

Thanks all
 
Last edited:

A. Paul

Member
Supporting Member
Mar 3, 2019
74
Alberta, Canada
I don't know much about how bad those shocks rust, however I highly doubt they will rust out in the near future. The finish might be ruined eventually but it would take a significant amount of time and for rust to affect the functionality of the shocks.
Yes remove the boots, all they end up doing is retaining dirt and moisture.
 

Jerry Bransford

TJ Guru
Supporting Member
Nov 9, 2015
9,973
Escondido California
Thanks. Sand first, then apply? I'm assuming I tape off everything including the rod and just hit that body with a couple coats?
Just clean them off with a cleaner like Simple Green, 409, etc. and dry them, then give them a coat or two. Just make sure to adhere to the instructions where the second coat is concerned. If you apply the second coat after the first hour but before a week has gone by so the paint cures entirely the paint will wrinkle.

So apply a light coat, then a second light coat within about 30 minutes and you'll be ok.
 
OP
Not_Invented_Here_

Not_Invented_Here_

TJ Enthusiast
Jan 15, 2019
104
Kansas City
Just clean them off with a cleaner like Simple Green, 409, etc. and dry them, then give them a coat or two. Just make sure to adhere to the instructions where the second coat is concerned. If you apply the second coat after the first hour but before a week has gone by so the paint cures entirely the paint will wrinkle.

So apply a light coat, then a second light coat within about 30 minutes and you'll be ok.
thanks man, appreciate it. Just want to make sure I tape them off correctly and protect while applying. I'll pick some of this up tonight on my way home.
 

jazngab

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Aug 23, 2018
455
Montgomery County, PA, USA
Yeah dumb question perhaps in hindsight maybe...if it's a clearcoat enamel, then it's just going over the existing paint right?

Just curious, how did you tape off and protect the other parts while you applied?
I didn’t tape anything. Just hit the painted area with a light coat. Its clear. Then I lightly spray it here and there whenever I wash the Jeep.
 

jazngab

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Aug 23, 2018
455
Montgomery County, PA, USA
Gotcha - you talking spot applications to keep everything even and covered after it gets blasted by a power washer?
It’s only on there to protect it from rusting. So the way I look at it is just spraying a protectant. So I do it every few months just a light coat. Obviously it’ll just be the area that is visible. Can’t reach the part of the shock that’s facing in. Keep in mind I garage keep mine and don’t drive it much in the winter either especially when there’s salt on the ground.
 
OP
Not_Invented_Here_

Not_Invented_Here_

TJ Enthusiast
Jan 15, 2019
104
Kansas City
It’s only on there to protect it from rusting. So the way I look at it is just spraying a protectant. So I do it every few months just a light coat. Obviously it’ll just be the area that is visible. Can’t reach the part of the shock that’s facing in. Keep in mind I garage keep mine and don’t drive it much in the winter either especially when there’s salt on the ground.
Nope, that's perfect and answers all questions at this point. It sounds like exactly the solution I'm looking for given the circumstances.

Thanks all for chiming in...
 
Reactions: jazngab

Rob5589

Certified video trained differential rebuilder
Supporting Member
Aug 29, 2016
6,168
W Sacramento, Kalifornia
I just painted a 5000 steering damper. Pulled it out the box, wiped it down with acetone, hit it with flat black Rustoleum. At the most you could scuff it up with a green pad. Don't overthink it.