i have a stock 98 Tj I just picked up for my first build. I have been trying to search for information on strut length for a 5-6” lift and how much travel I should look for. I just keep finding threads that people just talk about liking the ori or switching to kings. No tech info
ORI strut lengths for 5-6” lift
- Thread starter TF Jeep
- Start date
What is ORI?
No one can tell you a 100% accurate answer for compressed and extended lengths of shocks. They can give you a ballpark, but the only way you'll get 100% accurate information is if you cycle your suspension and measure the compressed and extended lengths for yourself.
See this thread if I'm speaking Greek: How to set your bump stop on a Jeep Wrangler TJ
I know that talks about setting bump stop, but it describes the process of cycling your suspension so that you can know what the maximum compressed and extended lengths you can run for shocks would be. There are so many variables that it's impossible to get a 100% accurate answer without doing this.
No one can tell you a 100% accurate answer for compressed and extended lengths of shocks. They can give you a ballpark, but the only way you'll get 100% accurate information is if you cycle your suspension and measure the compressed and extended lengths for yourself.
See this thread if I'm speaking Greek: How to set your bump stop on a Jeep Wrangler TJ
I know that talks about setting bump stop, but it describes the process of cycling your suspension so that you can know what the maximum compressed and extended lengths you can run for shocks would be. There are so many variables that it's impossible to get a 100% accurate answer without doing this.
Ori is off road industries they make different lengths of travel from 8” to 20” all internally valves to eliminate the need for bump stops or limiting straps. This is a lot Nik to their web site
http://oristruts.com/phone/reservoirs.html
http://oristruts.com/phone/reservoirs.html
What are the compressed and extended lengths of your ORI options?
The process for selecting the right length ORIs would be very similar to selecting the best length shocks for your configuration. Even more applicable would be the process of outboarding the rear shocks and also relocating the fronts.
What mounts are you planning to use? Have you settled on a tire size? how much up and down travel would you like to end up with?
The process for selecting the right length ORIs would be very similar to selecting the best length shocks for your configuration. Even more applicable would be the process of outboarding the rear shocks and also relocating the fronts.
What mounts are you planning to use? Have you settled on a tire size? how much up and down travel would you like to end up with?
If you're already speaking Greek, then this will be an interesting discussion.
Looking at a couple universal mounts. Possibly the artctec coil over mount kit.
The attached picture is the only listed specs I could find on travel so far
The attached picture is the only listed specs I could find on travel so far
Is the Jeep set up for a 5-6" lift? If so, then exactly how?
If you are going through the trouble of mounting ORIs, then you really ought to know the outer physical limits of your up and down travels. With a decent amount of work, this would put your overall travels somewhere in the 11-12" range. Then you have to figure out how and where the ORIs will physically fit. That last set I saw in person was quite large.
@toximus is putting coilovers on his LJ. And he is doing a careful and thoughtful build around them. You will want to study his build thread.
If you are going through the trouble of mounting ORIs, then you really ought to know the outer physical limits of your up and down travels. With a decent amount of work, this would put your overall travels somewhere in the 11-12" range. Then you have to figure out how and where the ORIs will physically fit. That last set I saw in person was quite large.
@toximus is putting coilovers on his LJ. And he is doing a careful and thoughtful build around them. You will want to study his build thread.
As JJVW pointed out there is a ton more to doing this than a couple of kits. At least if you want it to run well. If you want ORI struts just because, then I'm sure you can figure out something to bolt them to. I'm not sure that Artec installs their kits to see if they even work before selling them. Seems to me that they simply use thicker steel in place of engineering.
I think you need to answer the questions on the second post in my build thread so you know what you even want to build: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...reetable-adventure-lj-story.9956/#post-155348
This reminds me that I really need to update my build thread again. It's been a while...
Well I live in south Louisiana so I don’t imagine I’ll be seeing the difficult terrain you guys see in Moab or up north. But eventually with my travels in the army I’ll eventually get somewhere worth building a quality ride so I would like to start from the beginning doing it right. I work in a fab/ restoration shop building classics and tube chassis race cars. so I can probably fab up the mounts I’ll need. I located a 8.8 with 4.10 gears and disc brakes for $100 I’ll build a truss for that. I have the 44 in the rear with 3.73 right now may try to figure out how to swap that to the front but haven’t done any research on that. I’m looking at the metalcloak control arm kit and track bars. apparently the ORI Struts eliminate the need for the anti rock. I would like to fit 35” tires under it so I figured 5-6” lift will get me there. Possibly a 1” body lift for a tummy tuck. Have the sye and drive shaft on order. It’s still a daily as I have returned to college to earn my commission after 8 years enlisted. This may turn into a crawler later on in a couple years if I get back to Colorado Springs
Maybe read through my build thread, as well. I'm currently very well built for 35s, but still run 33s. And it's a daily driver.
I don't understand why people say that ORIs don't need sway bars. They will absolutely benefit the same as any other suspension system.
I don't understand why people say that ORIs don't need sway bars. They will absolutely benefit the same as any other suspension system.
Skip the fat and narrow 8.8 with a heavy truss. The Dana 44 is better. Find an HP30 for the front. Honestly, if you are serious about ORIs you need to research other axles entirely.
35s work well with a 4" lift and a small body lift. At the 5-6" lift you are proposing, plus a tummy tuck, it won't matter what suspension you have. Your rear drive shaft is going to go into bind quickly and rob the Jeep of any meaningful down travel.
35s work well with a 4" lift and a small body lift. At the 5-6" lift you are proposing, plus a tummy tuck, it won't matter what suspension you have. Your rear drive shaft is going to go into bind quickly and rob the Jeep of any meaningful down travel.
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A 6" lift is too tall for a TJ running 35s. Optimal for 35's is 5", like a 4" suspension lift plus a 1" body lift. You'll also need to install a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) kit into your transfer case and replace the factory rear driveshaft with a CV driveshaft to eliminate the major vibrations a 4" suspension lift will cause.
By the way, our TJs don't use struts. Our suspensions use a combination of separate coil springs and shock absorbers.
Avoid the temptation to go with a bolt-on long arm suspension. Their ads make them sound great but they're not. They are great however at getting hung up on rocks and trail obstacles.
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OP, why struts vs a coilover or nice coil/shock combo?
For some ideas: shockingly I am fitting a 27-3/8" rear driveshaft into my LJ with a high pinion 60.
About how long is the factory shaft? My SWB Rubicon rear is roughly 16" right now after the lift and Savvy skid.
That's a good question. I don't exactly know. I also had a slip yoke so the measurement is a bit different.
I do know however that I was able to get an extra 2" compared to a Rubi 241.
I’m still researching the pros and cons for ORI and coil overs. I was originally looking at putting Kings on it. The other day I was at a local diner when a couple guys were talking about their Jeep club and their Jeep builds. They say they switched from coil overs to ORI and it was the smoothest ride they have had. Also they mentioned no limiting straps bump stops or anti rock needed.