Outboard mounted shocks: Is it really worth it?

Rook

Rook

TJ Enthusiast
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Lately it seems like everyone is talking about outboard mounted shocks. I know a local guy who does them for $850.

My question is, is it worth the cost? Is it that noticeable of an improvement, and what are the benefits?

Would this be something worth doing for a TJ that only sees some off-roading, or is this one of those things that's not really needed unless you're doing a ton of really technical off-roading?
 
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Good reads! I too was contemplating outboard shocks on my never ending list of modifications. Seriously, it never ends...
 
Thanks Jerry, I think I am going to have this guy setup my outboard shocks for me. It seems like a worthwhile mod for the cost.
 
Outboarded mine when I did the "rebuild" on my 05 LJ. Used the Ford Shock towers, cut the frame and welded the new towers in. Not hard at all with the tub off. Now the shocks are at a 90 degree angle when articulating. Whole new ride experience.
 
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Stinger said:
Outboarded mine when I did the "rebuild" on my 05 LJ. Used the Ford Shock towers, cut the frame and welded the new towers in. Not hard at all with the tub off. Not the shocks are at a 90 degree angle when articulating. Whole new ride experience.
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I heard it makes it much smoother on road? How about off road?

It's one of the next things on my modification list to go with the new Currie 4" lift.
 
Chris I cant speak to off road yet. This 10 month project has now taken my a bit over two years. Have not got it to the point of off roading yet. Seemed to behave very well on some FS road around here.
 
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Stinger said:
Chris I cant speak to off road yet. This 10 month project has now taken my a bit over two years. Have not got it to the point of off roading yet. Seemed to behave very well on some FS road around here.
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That's good to hear at least! I plan on going with the outboard mounted shocks and pairing it with a nice set of reservoir style shocks at the same time. That should compliment the rest of the lift very nicely.

You'll have to post some photos when you get a chance!
 
Chris said:
I heard it makes it much smoother on road? How about off road?

It's one of the next things on my modification list to go with the new Currie 4" lift.
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Like all other single point solutions, outboarding has no inherent benefits. I can outboard your shocks and screw them up so badly that you'll hate your rig.

Outboarding has many opportunities to solve some problems, if you have the problems and want to solve them, it is a good solution. When I invented it for the TJ, I was trying to move the terrible lower shock mount up out of the rocks. Since there was not a place for the top of the shock to move up between the tire and frame for most of the commonly backspaced rims, I cut them into the frame so the top of the shock could go up. I didn't even go with a longer shock the first time I did it. Now it's commonplace to do so and I rarely don't.

You can solve travel issues, shock selection issues, and add some stability if done correctly. You can also mess all of those up if you don't do it right.
 
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When i do an outboard, the perches are relocated, and travel is matched to the springs. If you have have 35" or larger tires, some sheet metal gets cut and folded.

Most aftermarket springs, with the exception of metal cloak, which requires 3.5", allow me to set the uptravel on a 2" over stock solid bumpstop extension retaining the factory dampner.

I use 12" travel bilsteins for springs with a 17" and under free length.

The ride quality and handling is much better imo.

A typical 4" lift using currie springs, 25" extended length shocks, 3" drop belly pan, sye, and bolt on shock relocation brackets set you at a bumpstop requirement of over 5" over stock extension.

I have also in the last month been messing around with short arm geometry correction like nth degree offered in 2002 on their 3-4.5" suspension. It's nothing short of amazing the stability ive been able to add to the lifted tj's with some bolt on fabricated brackets i built and copy cat of nth's redrilled factory frame mounts along with outboard rear shocks.

Ive got plenty of pics but dont have the time right now to mess with the new upload thing.

I know chis has seen the new adjustable double shear towers im now having manufactured and michale mortan's jeep in action that has the new short arm geometry correction on it.
 
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Nice Job Dave! I think between you and us, the customers will finally have some decent options for fixing their suspension that actually work. I just sent back the first prototype brackets to finalize some small changes for the complete weld on mid arm kit. We've got front and rear mini trusses, frame brackets and control arms nearly done and a rig in the driveway for the first article installation. They will be able to call Savvy up and have a complete kit shipped and it takes the average amateur about 2 days to do all the work without unbolting the axles out from under the rig.
 
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mrblaine said:
Nice Job Dave! I think between you and us, the customers will finally have some decent options for fixing their suspension that actually work. I just sent back the first prototype brackets to finalize some small changes for the complete weld on mid arm kit. We've got front and rear mini trusses, frame brackets and control arms nearly done and a rig in the driveway for the first article installation. They will be able to call Savvy up and have a complete kit shipped and it takes the average amateur about 2 days to do all the work without unbolting the axles out from under the rig.
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Ive got a crap load of hours into the mid arm kit brackets ive been building. actually I wish id known you were working on one also...
i finally got to the point they're all the same now. my front is a 3 link adjustable upper frame bracket and rear 4 link/panhard with adjustable upper frame brackets. i also have my rear 3 link/panhard near perfect, imo, now. there are a dozen of them running around up here problem free.
I use currie 4" springs, 12" 5125 outboard rear bilstiens and 11.15" travel bilstiens up front on 2.5" bumpstop extension. on the highline rigs i use the same 30" extended, 12" travel on the front as the rear in new towers i made which are adjustable just like the rear are. these rigs are awesome to drive and wheel.

I know gerald lee has seen most of it already if he pays any attention to facebook posts.
 
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David Kishpaugh said:
Ive got a crap load of hours into the mid arm kit brackets ive been building. actually I wish id known you were working on one also...
i finally got to the point they're all the same now. my front is a 3 link adjustable upper frame bracket and rear 4 link/panhard with adjustable upper frame brackets. i also have my rear 3 link/panhard near perfect, imo, now. there are a dozen of them running around up here problem free.
I use currie 4" springs, 12" 5125 outboard rear bilstiens and 11.15" travel bilstiens up front on 2.5" bumpstop extension. on the highline rigs i use the same 30" extended, 12" travel on the front as the rear in new towers i made which are adjustable just like the rear are. these rigs are awesome to drive and wheel.

I know gerald lee has seen most of it already if he pays any attention to facebook posts.
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I'll see if I can get some pics of the front mini truss. It is hell for stout, small, light, low profile and has a major surprise for the folks that know me. It will literally take more time to clean the paint off for welding that it will to install it and weld it up.
 
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mrblaine said:
I'll see if I can get some pics of the front mini truss. It is hell for stout, small, light, low profile and has a major surprise for the folks that know me. It will literally take more time to clean the paint off for welding that it will to install it and weld it up.
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I did mine to clean up crappy Nth Degree shock relocation brackets. I am sure you can give me an in depth critique next month:rolleyes:
 
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Stinger said:
I am sure you can give me an in depth critique next month:rolleyes:
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I have a rule I rarely violate unless the owner is in danger and it is that you have every right to build your rig however you want it, it is yours to make you happy and it is not my place to interfere with that unless I am invited to do so. So, I pretty much keep my mouth shut until you want something different.
 
Actually Blaine I am looking forward to it. I did so much research on this project before I started that it made my head hurt. Now it time to expose all those theories to critique. I don't mean ridicule - rather helpful advise.
 
I'm bumping up a very old thread here, but I have questions and a desire to fully understand what benefits (if any) outboarding the rear shocks would provide for *my Jeep which spends most of its life on the pavement*.

I'm currently using 4" Currie springs, Rocksport Shocks (24.5" extended and 14.6" collapsed). I have an SYE but no tummy tuck, with no plans on ever adding one. With my current bumpstops I'm at 6” of uptravel and a hair under 4” of downtravel.

If I'm reading this correctly, after outboarding the rear shocks you can utilize a 12" travel shock, which will gain you an additional 2" of travel over stock. How is that typically divided between up and down? With my current setup I have already gained 2" of additional uptravel over stock.
 
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What are your rear bump stops currently set for?

With my setup, the rear 12" Foxes have 7" up, 5" down.
 
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