Overheated but not showing it

Ok got the Hayden clutch in it’s way from amazon, like 40 bucks. I think that will help a lot, though part of me is tempted to by pass the clutch all together and jut have the fan spinning when the engine is on, this being TX and all.
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I got a bunch of diff quotes for a coolant flush, I have a 110dollar 20 min flush, basically a drain run cleaner through it once and fill, and I have a 190 3 hour flush that’s drain, push chem cleaners through a bunch, distilled water , then fill. I’m guessing it’s worth the extra $$, what do y’all think?
How much it needs flushing depends on whether tap water was used to mix with the coolant. If it's full of calcium/hard water deposits then a more thorough flush designed to help clean that crud out is warranted. Distilled should always be used to mix with the coolant, never tap water.
 
Yeah, considering the P.O. Also filled it with green coolant I’m not to optimistic of distilled water, after doing the thermostat there was some pretty good build up of sludge on the water neck area, rookie me 10 min to get the metal clean enough for the gasket. plus the inside of the hoses/block is that nice bronze muddy color.
 
Well, was replacing the fan clutch today, struggling to get it off, and noticed a sizeable amount of coolant dripping from the front edge of my oil pan, a rough trace leads me to the water pump (checker the water neck which I suspected since is did a thermostat) so guess I’ll be ordering a water pump and a fan tool from rock auto, yay.
 
So I wound up doing the water pump, fan clutch and thermostat, then filling her with distilled and taking her to be flushed and refilled at a shop, I now run 200-210 driving and don’t go past 230 idling in TX heat with full a/c
 
Welp, 98 ambient here today, and she over heated again. As said before new hoses, pump and thermostat. And flush. Filed with HOAT. Idled for about hour and 15 in traffic A/C on full before the temp gauge went from the right side of the 210 bubble to pegged and the check gauges light came on with the master caution buzzer. Only thing left is the radiator, but it looks fine. Am I just asking to much of her, is there anything that can be done to “improve” the coolant system, I don’ t think a lower temp thermostat would help as she is Already been up to temp for a while when this happens.
 
this same thing happened to my tj i was out with some buddy’s and my temp got up past 260. i wasn’t in the vehicle to watch jt but my check gauges light was blinking and dinging. i took it in the next day and the water pump was shot. that would be my best guess. you usually have to replace the thermostat after overheating to that degree
 
this same thing happened to my tj i was out with some buddy’s and my temp got up past 260. i wasn’t in the vehicle to watch jt but my check gauges light was blinking and dinging. i took it in the next day and the water pump was shot. that would be my best guess. you usually have to replace the thermostat after overheating to that degree
Fuuuuuuuck. Well maybe It needs another thermostat.
Not in my opinion, something is still not working as it should. I wish I could be more help but it should be able to deal with what you are describing with everything stock. Mine has dealt with outside temps well over 100 without any problems.
She does have a stupid K&N intake, I doubt that is all related to the problem, but it’s there. Pretty much all that has been done to the engine, has the injector blanket and such from the recalls.
 
Oh and I sent the 1st message in the lot waiting for her to cool down. Gave her about 15 min and she was good enough to get out on the road. As soon as I got up to 30-40 temp started visibly dropping, never got any weird smells, did have the rough idle and lack of throttle response right after starting, went away in less than a min. On the drive back the A/C was still dud. Guessing the engine bay got hot enough to expand the coolant and trigger the A/C compressor over pressure switch.

also worth noting I have an orileys temp gauge Sender in there (The one that mounts into the water jacket) while I’m certain that the gauge wasn’t false (other signs of overheating) I’m wondering if it could have warned me earlier. I hate these gauges that are just cold, op, and hot. Like what’s the point? It’s no better than a light.
 
the rough idle i think was pre igniting. meaning the engine is so hot it’s igniting the fuel and air before the spark plugs do. that is extremely bad for your engine though so if it does happen again let her sit for a while. same thing happened to me with the rough idle.
 
I’m wondering if a hood louver wouldn’t help solve my problem, allow the air pulled through by the fan to escape. I like the look of them but my dad (who has his name on the title and thus veto power for any mods) said no. But if it served an actual purpose as apposed to just looks he might be open to the idea.
 
the rough idle i think was pre igniting. meaning the engine is so hot it’s igniting the fuel and air before the spark plugs do. that is extremely bad for your engine though so if it does happen again let her sit for a while. same thing happened to me with the rough idle.
Yeah happened Pretty bad the first time before I revamped the cooling system, had to let her sit for a 1/2 hour. This time was no where near as bad, probably wouldn’t have noticed if I wasn’t on full alert. Occasionally it Happens to my vw when the timing is to far off, that and carb backfires. Winch are always fun (not)
 
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I’m wondering if a hood louver wouldn’t help solve my problem, allow the air pulled through by the fan to escape. I like the look of them but my dad (who has his name on the title and thus veto power for any mods) said no. But if it served an actual purpose as apposed to just looks he might be open to the idea.
i’ve heard so many different things about the louvres. i looked into them for a while and decided it wouldn’t be worth the holes in my hood but they would definitely work a little. i have also seen people put a second electric fan in front of the radiator that runs all the time. not sure how well that works though
 
i’ve heard so many different things about the louvres. i looked into them for a while and decided it wouldn’t be worth the holes in my hood but they would definitely work a little. i have also seen people put a second electric fan in front of the radiator that runs all the time. not sure how well that works though
Like between the rad. and the grill? Seems like it might help. So long as you still had the engine one which moves more air than a electric could ever hope to. Probably couldn’t hurt. IDK if there is space though. Especially with the A/C condenser which I believe is in front. Though there might be space cause there’s no trans cooler (M/T)

you have a link to someone that has done it? Would be interested to see the setup.
 
The rough idle after startup when hot is your injectors over heating. Its a common problem TJ's have that is caused by heat soak. It goes away as the injectors cool off. Nothing to worry about but you have noticed it recently because overheating obviously causes it to be more prominent. It occurs to some TJ's even when they have no cooling system problems.

Louvers are not the answer. There is something else wrong with the system. You should be able to idle with the AC on in 100 degrees with no problems.
 
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The rough idle after startup when hot is your injectors over heating. Its a common problem TJ's have that is caused by heat soak. It goes away as the injectors cool off. Nothing to worry about but you have noticed it recently because overheating obviously causes it to be more prominent. It occurs to some TJ's even when they have no cooling system problems.

Louvers are not the answer. There is something else wrong with the system. You should be able to idle with the AC on in 100 degrees with no problems.
Any suggestions? I’m a little lost cause i just did a cooling system revamp in July.