OP
I duplicated the jounce cup with a piece of pipe in a vice and compressed the jounce to see how much hard bump it would provide. I averaged 1.5"-1.75" of hard bump. The composition of the jounce is stiffer than the factory jounce, but the springy portion of the jounce seems to have some give, kind of acting like a poor man's air bump. I'm not saying these are a solution for anything, but I like to experiment with new ways to lesson the smaller events without adding more lift. My results with the rear have convinced me that adding them to the front may net better results than hockey pucks with factory jounces.
OP
I thought I squashed this... after parking outside in the cold over night I got the CPS pending CEL and limp mode. As usual, once the engine gets to temp and I stop/start it runs fine. It even was happy all the way home from the springs (~60mi).
It’s probably time to find originals now, not the garbage OEM replacements or whatever is in mine. Or maybe I just accept this minor irritation and have another car for these weekend needs...
The CEL is still there, but I want to see if it will clear itself.
Edit: the code was gone after running out to pull into the garage for the night
It’s probably time to find originals now, not the garbage OEM replacements or whatever is in mine. Or maybe I just accept this minor irritation and have another car for these weekend needs...
The CEL is still there, but I want to see if it will clear itself.
Edit: the code was gone after running out to pull into the garage for the night
Last edited:
I thought I squashed this... after parking outside in the cold over night I got the CPS pending CEL and limp mode. As usual, once the engine gets to temp and I stop/start it runs fine. It even was happy all the way home from the springs (~60mi).
It’s probably time to find originals now, not the garbage OEM replacements or whatever is in mine. Or maybe I just accept this minor irritation and have another car for these weekend needs...
The CEL is still there, but I want to see if it will clear itself.
Edit: the code was gone after running out to pull into the garage for the night
Interesting. I know on the earlier models the CPS code is the same numerical code for the CAM sensor. Do you know if it is that way on the older models? Or have you looked at the CAM sensor?
OP
I do think the code in the later years can mean either.
I’ve changed both more than once, however I think I am back on the ones I had after first dealing with the stall issue. I’m not sure which brand either is - they were both replaced within the first month of owning the Jeep due to the stalling problem and before I knew what I was doing.
Maybe it’s time to swap the MOPAR ones in since I doubt the shops that did these went OEM. It’s hard to reproduce anymore without it being sub 20F and sitting all night
When I was dealing with CPS/CAM issues the only dealership that I could find who had mopar bits in stock was AutoNation Chrysler Jeep West in Golden. I also picked up a mopar coil and mopar spark plug wires there
OP
OP
Well this isn’t build related, but it occupies time and money...
Our house was built in 1994 and still has the builder grade (hollow and thin) doors. So I’ve spent the last few days learning to frame a door (and rework the frame with my mistakes).
here’s the end result of the framing + new - trim will be soon.
The next two on the docket are in the garage and ready when I am, as we focus on the main floor before we head to the 2nd floor. Quality doors are surprisingly expensive.
Our house was built in 1994 and still has the builder grade (hollow and thin) doors. So I’ve spent the last few days learning to frame a door (and rework the frame with my mistakes).
here’s the end result of the framing + new - trim will be soon.
The next two on the docket are in the garage and ready when I am, as we focus on the main floor before we head to the 2nd floor. Quality doors are surprisingly expensive.
Now that you are an expert do you want to do mine? The wind caught the screen door and ripped it out of the frame. Its been on my to-do list for quite a while now.
OP
OP
There was a funky new noise that was in my rear driver side wheel well.... initial check I didn’t see anything then in my garage noticed some space in one of the lugs... some were loose on both the front and rear tire. I’m not sure the cause, but hoping it’s a fluke with the weather. Another candidate is the budget wheel spacers, but the passenger side was okay.
Good catch! How many miles since the spacer install? Could just be a one time thing and you caught it just in time.
OP
Probably 150-200 or so, I really should have inspected them sooner - I did with all the control arms and just spaced these I guess.
OP
I’m about to order some 4” springs (Currie/Rockjock) and their bump stops for the lower perches. I was curious, however, of the LJ springs for the rear (CE-9131RH3P). I think @strumble8 and @toximus may have some experience with these. Are they the right ones to get?
Any gotchas I should be aware of going from 2” to 4”? I have the angled bracket (JKS), adjustable TBs and shock relocators (that I indend to be somewhat temporary).
Any gotchas I should be aware of going from 2” to 4”? I have the angled bracket (JKS), adjustable TBs and shock relocators (that I indend to be somewhat temporary).
Those are the rear springs I am running. I dont think you will run into many issues. Just make sure your shocks will work with the new 4" lift
OP
Thanks! I am looking into the shocks now, I know the ranchos tend to run long so I’m trying to figure out the best way to measure that. Right now I have the ones for 2.5” lift which most people don’t even run for the OME springs I have (hindsight...), hoping these work until I can outboard.
OP
Initial gut suggests the wrong shocks for my 2” may be the right shocks (or at least, more right) for 4”. Then I can swap them later with an outboard and tower raise someday.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/no-rancho-rs5000x-shocks-for-4-lifts.27109/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/no-rancho-rs5000x-shocks-for-4-lifts.27109/
Jack you jeep up till you have 12" between the upper and lower spring perch. That will get you close to ride height with the currie springs. Than you can measure between shock mounts and that should get you in the ball park to tell if you current shocks will be long enough. 4.5" is coil bind on the currie springs, you can use those to measurements as a good reference for your required shock length. I would trade droop in favor of up travel
OP
Did you have to use any spacers to level your rig @strumble8 ? I have a few on-hand just in case I think.