Rocky Mountain Billy Goat Build

New axles around $7400. Minus say $3500 for your rubi axles and pumps. Is $3900.
How much is a re-gear, chromoly axles, and labor going to run you? It doesn’t seem far off to me.

$500 for the front axle shafts, 650$ for the gears (f/r) and install is an unknown cost at the moment, I believe I know someone experienced willing to work with me on it.
 
While digesting what I trade off with these new Fox shocks up front, here’s some numbers.

First, the new shocks are pretty standard 9.1” travel, matching the Ranchos. However, the ranchos where they sit at ride height expose almost 6” of shaft (only allowing ~3.1” down).

My bumps make contact just over 4.4” and since they’re poly they allow a little more movement, meaning I’m leaving a decent bit of shock travel on the table with the Ranchos I have now.

The Fox’s body length is around an inch longer than the Rancho, which translates to about 5" of shaft at ride height. That should push me closer to 50/50 travel with an up travel bias (I think around 4.7"), reclaiming around an inch of travel that was previously unusable and tossing it on the down side.

As a future proofing thought, there’s some clearance in the fenders, leading me to believe I can move to 35”s fairly easily if nothing else changes and maintain close to the same travel. Though there are other considerations, I’ll have to dry fit 35s and cycle some time. If I get a better designed front Trackbar (Currie), that changes where the bumps need to be and throws it all off again.

I knew the setup I had wasn’t ideal (the shocks were reused from the 2” lift, and they were the wrong ones then too), but finally playing it out is interesting.
 
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First ride impressions: stable and firm without being harsh and definitely less body roll. There's a really nice small bump compliance on the road. The front and back end differ pretty significantly in that regard (the rear is on Ranchos). The difference is pretty surprising between a Rancho, which is great for what it is, and a higher end shock. If I wasn't thinking longer term about an outboard, I would probably think about changing out the rear end to match - however that will have to wait.

The rough measurements where pretty close, sitting right around 4.6" of shaft at right height. Once I cycle sometime soon I can know what I am giving up on the top end, but it doesn't appear to be much if anything and hopefully the downtravel gains will be noticable in the stability department.
 
Good shocks are nice, aren't they?

My rear valving should be in the same family as your fronts. I had the same impressions you are having, but with the front/rear ends reversed.
 
Good shocks are nice, aren't they?

My rear valving should be in the same family as your fronts. I had the same impressions you are having, but with the front/rear ends reversed.

Definitely! I'm pretty happy for buying the 2 for about the same price as a pair of ranchos. I am sure you'll love getting the RRs fitted up front, that will be even more noticeable I bet with the variable settings.
 
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The name of the game for me for the next bit is some hardening.

First I swapped the differential covers for the set from the Rams in the wrecking yard. Here’s the difference in weight, the front and rear were the same weight (cc @jjvw).

OEM Dana 44:

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And the Ram cover:

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A pound of difference seems substantial and these feel beefy. I may need to buy another one just to see if I can do any damage with a sledge..

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I was due for an oil change as well as prepping for some new aluminum - so I joined the Stahlbus group. I don’t mind the bolt way, but figured that gets harder with an engine skid. I got the shipping notification for the skid Tuesday, but no updates since - so seems like it’s a little more time out. That’s not a big deal, however, since I need to do some work on my exhaust.

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Finally some new axle shafts were supposed to be here Thursday... then Friday... then Saturday... now Monday apparently. Hoping that it’s sooner than later, I figured it get prepped for the switch.

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The old stubby isn’t salvageable.

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However the short side is fine, so between the stubby from the short side and both inners, I’ll have an easy trail spare with minor work required.
 
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I’m a software engineer and we are notorious for being lazy. We’ll spend hours to automate away some silly task that typically takes 5 minutes over and over...

In true form, I decided to toss a regulator in my air line to make airing up more mindless, 26psi and I won’t have to think about it again.

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I’m getting really frustrated with the stalling issue, it’s back again. Threw these codes:


P0300
P0508
P0344

Yesterday driving in the heat it felt all of a sudden like I lost power, as if something was shoved in my tail pipe and sounded different. Though after a bit that went away.

However today it feels more like a fuel delivery issue. Sometimes it just dies out, other times it seems to stuffer a little and then surge to recover.