Rocky Mountain Billy Goat Build

[rasband]

Getting back after it, I untucked my tummy to get access to the wires that run along the transmission tunnel. I’m not sure how much I can get it to where it started, but I couldn’t find any evidence of messed up wires (squished or rubbed).

I also checked the battery health, hoping for an easy solution. It’s still close to new performance - so nothing there.

Im back to probably the PCM or a very hidden connection. Along that line of thought, I bent the pins of the Cam and Crank sensors and added some dielectric grease. I also pulled the PCM to clean up its grounds - filing the screw holes, scraping some paint from the fire wall mount, cleaning the screw heads and threads.

If I don’t see any improvements it’s time to bring it in so they can see the actual values being sent to narrow in more. I have a few more things to plug in and bolt back up before I can get some miles on.

 

[tworley]

I have torque pro if you want to try and get some real time data. Otherwise, physically pulling the harness apart and inspecting each wire is my only suggestion

 

[rasband]

I have torque pro if you want to try and get some real time data. Otherwise, physically pulling the harness apart and inspecting each wire is my only suggestion

I think you’re right, the only proper way to fully inspect the harness is a full removal. I’d like to see the readings before going through pulling everything. I was hoping to see something obvious with yanking the segment between the CKS and CPS, I figured maybe we did some damage during the TT on accident.

just for the utility, I’ll pick up bluedriver (seems to be the closest iOS option).

 

[rasband]

I think you’re right, the only proper way to fully inspect the harness is a full removal. I’d like to see the readings before going through pulling everything. I was hoping to see something obvious with yanking the segment between the CKS and CPS, I figured maybe we did some damage during the TT on accident.

just for the utility, I’ll pick up bluedriver (seems to be the closest iOS option).

Im probably past the point of no return, I think I’ll yank the whole harness just so I can make sure it goes back in whole and doesn’t trigger anything later due to cutting a corner.

 

[DrDmoney]

I only went back a couple of pages and sorry to hear you’re having this issue, maybe you’ve already checked this but a bad alternator can cause all the issues you are having, disregard if you have already checked.

 

[rasband]

I only went back a couple of pages and sorry to hear you’re having this issue, maybe you’ve already checked this but a bad alternator can cause all the issues you are having, disregard if you have already checked.

Hey! Thanks, do you have any tips of what/how to test here? Probably 6 months ago I had this tested at a local advanced auto parts, but it was mostly younger kids there - so I’m not 100% sure they knew what to test (and I probably didn’t know the right questions to ask).

 

[DrDmoney]

Hey! Thanks, do you have any tips of what/how to test here? Probably 6 months ago I had this tested at a local advanced auto parts, but it was mostly younger kids there - so I’m not 100% sure they knew what to test (and I probably didn’t know the right questions to ask).

I don’t trust the Auto-Zone/O’Reilly’s in car tests, bench testing is the best way to determine if it’s failing. Also alternators don’t last forever so sometimes it’s easier to get a new one and see if it cures the issue, if not you have a replacement for when it fails.

 

[rasband]

I don’t trust the in car Auto-Zone/O’Reilly’s in car tests, bench testing is the best way to determine if it’s failing. Also alternators don’t last forever so sometimes it’s easier to get a new one and see if it cures the issue, if not you have a replacement for when it fails.

Me neither, it was a quick passing then I thought I solved it and ignored their info. Ive read more than once that the electrical system can lead to these issues, so I don’t mind this minor expense as a stab.

I’ll have to research, do most people go OEM or another generation relevant (I think I recall Dakota/Durango?) that’s beefier?

 

[DrDmoney]

Me neither, it was a quick passing then I thought I solved it and ignored their info. Ive read more than once that the electrical system can lead to these issues, so I don’t mind this minor expense as a stab.

I’ll have to research, do most people go OEM or another generation relevant (I think I recall Dakota/Durango?) that’s beefier?

I think there is a write up in here on the Durango upgrade, that’s probably the best way to go, I have a Mean Green that I got for 20 bucks new in the box at a garage sale, it works great but I don’t think I would pay full price for one when you can do the Durango swap.

 

[DrDmoney]

The rough idle is a symptom as well as misfires, stalling, and stuttering. I hate to say I hope that’s your issue but if given a choice I would change the alternator before pulling the harness apart.

 

[rasband]

The rough idle is a symptom as well as misfires, stalling, and stuttering. I hate to say I hope that’s your issue but if given a choice I would change the alternator before pulling the harness apart.

Thank you! I’ve been in the realm of WTF so more ideas before the nuclear options are good. As you may have read I’ve joked/contemplated/priced out PCMs, engine swaps, replacements, and whatever else helps my wife stomach the hobby

 

[DrDmoney]

Thank you! I’ve been in the realm of WTF so more ideas before the nuclear options are good. As you may have read I’ve joked/contemplated/priced out PCMs, engine swaps, replacements, and whatever else helps my wife stomach the hobby

The part of me that doesn’t like Jeep problems hopes it fixes it...the part that likes V8 swaps is telling the other part to STFU.

 

[rasband]

The part of me that doesn’t like Jeep problems hopes it fixes it...the part that likes V8 swaps is telling the other part to STFU.

There’s a small part of me pushing for a swap... as the weight is easy: “buy something more reliable or make this reliable” - it saves me money to engine swap if I know the right people to help with all the parts I don’t know.

 

[rasband]

Well, I think this is good news. I quick plugged things back in, connected the battery and started it up. The code was immediate - whereas normally it’s a bit delayed. That suggests I triggered it when fiddling.

This is going to be a pain.

 

[rasband]

It’s funny how easy it is to put old threads out of mind when you think you’ve solved a problem. Specifically I’m thinking this one:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/interesting-opda-findings.32670/
I didn’t get any pictures in the weeds, but I tore through a lot of loom with nothing looking out of place. The circuits for the CAM and Crank sensors were fine. since that seemed to be going nowhere, I buttoned it back up (probably not as good as it was, which sucks). I cycled the transmission height to emulate what we did during the tummy tuck, there’s no way it would have pinched what I thought it would (the loom that runs just under the fire wall bordering the bell housing).

After getting everything back together, it was in limp mode again immediately. However going back to the post above, I started to search for a DRB to have the sensors relearned. With no luck there I found the following as a way to try to do the reset:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/any-benefit-to-resetting-pcm.15762/#post-254238
I’ve read a place or two that’s for the earlier models, but tried it anyway.

I’m not saying this is solved, however things are working better. My butt dyno notices less vibe at idle and a slightly different tone and feel to the engine. So I’m wondering now if I created this issue by “fixing” the previous OPDA’s orientation not being at TDC and messing up the calibration of the CPS.

I won’t know for a while, but I can say I happily drove around a decent bit today in 95+ heat and no signs of trouble. I’m going to try to get a lot more miles before hopefully wheeling on Sunday.

 

[rasband]

My build thread has turned into an ownership thread, but it is what it is as part of the journey.

Leaving today for a wheeling day (after around 100miles testing...) I stalled out close to home and had to have our Hyundai tow me home... my wife is so uncomfortable with the task that the first thing she said is “it’s time, just go buy a Taco or whatever you want”.

I’m a stubborn bastard that wants this thing to work and that endeavor takes a lot of capital for someone that’s cheap... however that math makes a v8 swap more appealing. But being as stubborn as I am, I’m going to find the cause and ride out the 60k mile 4.0 as long as I can (I’m fairly sure the earlier owner(s) gave up on this rig).

For the first time in the 2 years of ownership and numerous times trying, I can reproduce the stall conditions by pressing on the center (Orange) PCM connector in weird ways once the closed loop is entered. The trigger is mostly based on wire orientation (not pressing/pulling the PCM connector housing). Previously it was always a shop (or me) finding something that wasn’t reproducible for a bit of mileage.

So finally, it feels like something concrete to follow. I’m not sure of the steps to take yet, however I’m wondering if some of the common PCM failures that are reported are misrepresented connector failures that could have been addressed differently. Time and budget will tell for me I suppose. I really don’t want a taco.

 

[tworley]

Sure sounds like a short somewhere within that.

 

[rasband]

Sure sounds like a short somewhere within that.

I’m talking with my EE friends of ways to make those female connectors stay static. If I wiggle the wires I can see a pretty decent amount of movement.

 

[rasband]

Testing my theory I trimmed out some of the plastic around the PCM connector’s base where the wires come in from the loom. This allowed me to better secure the wires to the housing than how they were previously wrapped.

I could still put a little wiggle on the PCM connector and trigger a stall. So here’s my attempt at a cheap fix.

There’s a little Easter egg here from my kids acting as a shim since the steel flat bent up a little. I’ll fix that by stacking another flat or two.

 

[tworley]

Whats the word? Has it triggered itself since doing this?