P0201: How would you recommend repairing these wires?

[TJFett01]

Engine has been running slightly rough, audible random misfiring (no misfire codes), slight shaking of the vehicle and P0201 was tripped.

Inspected the wiring on injector 1 and found exposed wires.

Further inspection of other electrical connections (other 5 fuel injectors) look similar with dry and cracking insulation of the wires.

How would you recommend repairing?

Splicing new wires at the damaged locations? Other ideas?

Thanks in advance!

 

[P man]

I would inspect the wire back as far as possible and if the rest is OK I would cut the wires as close to the connector as possible and use a new connector.

I would use good quality splicing techniques that were as corrosion proof as possible and call it a day

I believe those connectors are available new but if not I can help you with used

 

[NskLJ]

You can mark where they come out of the connector then Depin the connector then use shrink tubing just don’t go past where the wire sits in the connector and reinstall.

 

[Daryl]

Pick up a Standard Motor Products S-824 repair pigtail.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JKHYTQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Gilaguy23]

You can get quality heat shrink butt splices and contain a sealant of some type. We've used them in an pinch on 3 phase splices that are in occasionally flooded vaults and have had no isses after years. There is also commercial/quality type shrink wrap with the sealnt inside if you decide to solder things back up.

 

[pagrey]

I'd do what @Dayrl says or if you want to go crazy Ballenger Motorsports sells the connectors in a kit and you can put in high quality silicone wire or whatever you want. Personally I'd just follow the factory service manual and solder with shrink tubing but opinions vary on that, people here and/or Jeep, pick your poison.

 

[IJK]

Engine has been running slightly rough, audible random misfiring (no misfire codes), slight shaking of the vehicle and P0201 was tripped.

Inspected the wiring on injector 1 and found exposed wires.

Further inspection of other electrical connections (other 5 fuel injectors) look similar with dry and cracking insulation of the wires.

How would you recommend repairing?

Splicing new wires at the damaged locations? Other ideas?

Thanks in advance!

View attachment 355012

Liquid tape works wonders, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXNOD/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[TJFett01]

I would inspect the wire back as far as possible and if the rest is OK I would cut the wires as close to the connector as possible and use a new connector.

I would use good quality splicing techniques that were as corrosion proof as possible and call it a day

I believe those connectors are available new but if not I can help you with used

I will check the wires again to be sure there are no other possible issues.

Pick up a Standard Motor Products S-824 repair pigtail.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JKHYTQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Awesome thank you!

You can get quality heat shrink butt splices and contain a sealant of some type.

Looks like that would be the best method to reconnect the wires.

I'd do what @Dayrl says or if you want to go crazy Ballenger Motorsports sells the connectors in a kit and you can put in high quality silicone wire or whatever you want. Personally I'd just follow the factory service manual and solder with shrink tubing but opinions vary on that, people here and/or Jeep, pick your poison.

I got lost trying to find the connections I need lol Do you recall what kit it is?


Okay based on the feedback, it seems like the best option is to replace the old socket (since clip is broken) and slice it in the wiring harness. I will use liquid tape in aeras where needed. If the clip on the female side of the fuel injector pigtail wasn't broken, I would have just used liquid tape for this repair. Thanks IJK for the suggestion! I will order the parts and report back how the repair goes and/or if there's anymore questions.

Thank you everyone for the suggestions!

 

[TJFett01]

Diving deeper into the wiring harness has revealed that the other 5 pigtails on the fuel injectors are exposed and need replacing. Not to mention the rat's nest it's all connected to.

From my understanding, the green wire is positive and the orange negative for the fuel injector wiring.

In the first photo over the red rag, I'm holding the #1 fuel injector wires.

Apparently, the #1 fuel injector has a white wire with green stripe as negative instead of an orange. That was tapped off (bypassed) with a black wire that follows the wiring harness to the pcm to an unknown pin.

Second photo has the mentioned black wire with green arrows pointing at it.

I am considering getting a new harness or at least making my own (for the fuel injectors).

 

[LONGJP2]

Apparently, the #1 fuel injector has a white wire with green stripe as negative instead of an orange. That was tapped off (bypassed) with a black wire that follows the wiring harness to the pcm to an unknown pin.

A previous repair?

A new (used) harness would be ideal.

 

[AndyG]

“Thanks in advance” scares me. Do you have any idea some of the crazy things some of us are considering?

 

[TJFett01]

A previous repair?

A new (used) harness would be ideal.

Most likely a previous repair. I have no idea what that black wire does or if I should keep it? Hmm you might be right about getting a used harness.

“Thanks in advance” scares me. Do you have any idea some of the crazy things some of us are considering?

What would be considered "crazy"?

 

[AndyG]

Most likely a previous repair. I have no idea what that black wire does or if I should keep it? Hmm you might be right about getting a used harness.



What would be considered "crazy"?

Well, good question. Crazy is sort of normal here.

 

[TJFett01]

Update.

Looking to replace my engine wiring harness for this 2001 4.0 auto. Going to be calling local junkyards. Would a 2000-2004 wiring harness work well for me?

 

[hear]

Update.

Looking to replace my engine wiring harness for this 2001 4.0 auto. Going to be calling local junkyards. Would a 2000-2004 wiring harness work well for me?

I don't know all the commonalities, but I would think you'd want no later than 2002 if you have an automatic. But your profile says you have an AW4 so your harness is already non-standard to control the shift solenoids in the trans.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

…

What would be considered "crazy"?

I am currently installing a 3” body lift, Metal Cloak Fenders and a set of Patagonias…



OP - as you are starting to see as you dig in further, the FI connector is likely only the tip of the iceberg, and the harness propably has other deterioration problems as you go deeper. You are getting good advice here.

 

[TJFett01]

I don't know all the commonalities, but I would think you'd want no later than 2002 if you have an automatic. But your profile says you have an AW4 so your harness is already non-standard to control the shift solenoids in the trans.

Ahh yes, the AW4...

It seems like I should get a used harness, remove the current one, and compare the 2 (how it's setup for the AW4), repair the new (used) one if needed.

I was crawling under the jeep and notice the AW4's wires were looking questionable.

I would love to lift the tub off to work on the AW4 wires *but* I don't have a way to lift the tub off. I can remove the skid plate and work on it then.

I am currently installing a 3” body lift, Metal Cloak Fenders and a set of Patagonias…



OP - as you are starting to see as you dig in further, the FI connector is likely only the tip of the iceberg, and the harness propably has other deterioration problems as you go deeper. You are getting good advice here.

Doesn't sound too crazy if you ask me

The FL connector? I think in the long run it would be wise to repair the wiring harness now than to bandaid it for later.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Ahh yes, the AW4...

It seems like I should get a used harness, remove the current one, and compare the 2 (how it's setup for the AW4), repair the new (used) one if needed.

I was crawling under the jeep and notice the AW4's wires were looking questionable.

I would love to lift the tub off to work on the AW4 wires *but* I don't have a way to lift the tub off. I can remove the skid plate and work on it then.



Doesn't sound too crazy if you ask me

The FL connector? I think in the long run it would be wise to repair the wiring harness now than to bandaid it for later.

FI - As in Fuel Injector.

 

[3rd TJ]

3M 70 self fusing electrical tape and an over wrap of Scotch 33 will do well. I repaired a Ford 6.0 injector harness that had cracked insulation and exposed wiring like this and never had an issue afterward. There is too little wire left to splice. The only options are soldering if multiple conductors are broken the wrapping with 70 and following over that with 33. It will stop the oxidation, dirt, and water. Very easy to use and take your time.

 

[hear]

I would love to lift the tub off to work on the AW4 wires *but* I don't have a way to lift the tub off. I can remove the skid plate and work on it then.

Can you not just disconnect everything and pull it up into the engine bay to work on it? That's exactly what I did when I had similar looking gremlins on my 32RH. I had to unhook it all the way back to the tail lights, but once I had it in the engine bay it was much easier to work on (and make good decisions about how to repair since I didn't have gravity & bad lighting working against me.