Paint prep tips for a full paint job?

derekmac

TJ Addict
Joined
Feb 10, 2016
Messages
2,576
Location
NS, Canada
Next week I plan on prepping and painting my Jeep. My plan right now is to remove the doors and hood and paint them off of the Jeep. The hood I could do on the Jeep, but I figured it would be easier to paint the inside of the hood if it's off. I'll be removing everything from the doors and hanging them in the garage to paint. I'll also be removing the tube fenders as I want to sandblast them, then prime and paint.

Anything else I should remove, or any tips from anyone that's painted their TJ before? This is a color change from silver to desert tan. I don't plan on painting the floor, but will be doing as much that's visable as possible.
 
How involved are you looking to get? What quality of a paint job do you want? How much money and time are you looking to spend?

There's quite a few suggestions I'd have but some might be too time consuming for this specific project. Prep is the most important part in my opinion so always, always take your time on that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: derekmac
Next week I plan on prepping and painting my Jeep. My plan right now is to remove the doors and hood and paint them off of the Jeep. The hood I could do on the Jeep, but I figured it would be easier to paint the inside of the hood if it's off. I'll be removing everything from the doors and hanging them in the garage to paint. I'll also be removing the tube fenders as I want to sandblast them, then prime and paint.

Anything else I should remove, or any tips from anyone that's painted their TJ before? This is a color change from silver to desert tan. I don't plan on painting the floor, but will be doing as much that's visable as possible.
Pick a line to follow to break the paint. The pinch weld that the hood weather strip fits on is a good line to break the two colors. Go through the whole rig and find that line. The toughest one will be where the dash bolts to the area just inside the door openings. If I was doing one of my rigs, I would pull the dash to get that area done easier.

Pull the hinges on the hood, prep under the hinge and around the edges of them. When the prep is done, put them back on, adjust the hood to line up the way you want it and then pull the cowl and remove the hood that way. There is no good easy way to do the prep work next to the edge of the hinge and the new color will start peeling up right there.

The doors are a lot of work to break down, it is worth it to me.

Pick a line at the rear tail gate area to change color. I picked right in front of the sill and carried that line on all the sheetmetal that turned down from there all the way to the front dash area.

Shoot the gate and hinges separately.

The grill will suck big time. I would pull it first, clean, prep, and spray it as much as you can from the back side to stop all the edges from peeling. Looks really bad when that starts.

The last place to work on is under the rear gate opening. Pull the rear bumper, raise the tub up and remove the rear body mounts. That way you can get paint under the back and on the flange that goes down in front of the rear bumper. That it all easily seen from behind the rig and having it body color will look better.
 
How involved are you looking to get? What quality of a paint job do you want? How much money and time are you looking to spend?

There's quite a few suggestions I'd have but some might be too time consuming for this specific project. Prep is the most important part in my opinion so always, always take your time on that.
I'm not looking for a show quality finish as this is I do wheel this in very tight, bushy trails. There will be no out of pocket cost as everything has come from work (aircraft paint). I did take the week off so I wouldn't have to rush it though as I do want it to look good.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pegcandy
I'm not looking for a show quality finish as this is I do wheel this in very tight, bushy trails. There will be no out of pocket cost as everything has come from work (aircraft paint). I did take the week off so I wouldn't have to rush it though as I do want it to look good.
You must work for Southwest Airlines. The new color scheme left a bunch of desert tan in the store room, eh?
 
The toughest one will be where the dash bolts to the area just inside the door openings. If I was doing one of my rigs, I would pull the dash to get that area done easier.
Yeah, that was one area that I figured would be a pain. I really don't want to pull the dash, but I don't mind taking some extra time to mask it off.

Pull the hinges on the hood, prep under the hinge and around the edges of them. When the prep is done, put them back on, adjust the hood to line up the way you want it and then pull the cowl and remove the hood that way. There is no good easy way to do the prep work next to the edge of the hinge and the new color will start peeling up right there.
I hadn't thought of pulling it that way, so you probably just saved me some time trying to get it lined back up!

Shoot the gate and hinges separately.
Ah yes, the rear hinges. The paint has flaked in spots on both rear hinges, and the have some surface rust. I was thinking about pulling them one at a time to blast, then paint to help keep everything alinged. Not sure if that's the best way to go about it though.

The grill will suck big time. I would pull it first, clean, prep, and spray it as much as you can from the back side to stop all the edges from peeling. Looks really bad when that starts.
I haven't pulled the grill before. Does the rad/ac condensor need to be removed, or can they stay in place?

The last place to work on is under the rear gate opening. Pull the rear bumper, raise the tub up and remove the rear body mounts. That way you can get paint under the back and on the flange that goes down in front of the rear bumper. That it all easily seen from behind the rig and having it body color will look better.
I wouldn't have even though of doing that.

Thanks for all the great tips Blaine!
 
Yeah, that was one area that I figured would be a pain. I really don't want to pull the dash, but I don't mind taking some extra time to mask it off.
We pulled the dash back and hung it in place. It came out decent, not as good as pulling it. You have to choose the break there as well. We left the inside of the windshield frame black since it had a black interior.
DSC_4403.JPG

DSC_4404.JPG



I hadn't thought of pulling it that way, so you probably just saved me some time trying to get it lined back up!


Ah yes, the rear hinges. The paint has flaked in spots on both rear hinges, and the have some surface rust. I was thinking about pulling them one at a time to blast, then paint to help keep everything alinged. Not sure if that's the best way to go about it though.

Pull them and paint them and the gate separately or you will have old color under them.


I haven't pulled the grill before. Does the rad/ac condensor need to be removed, or can they stay in place?
All stays in place pretty easily.


I wouldn't have even though of doing that.

Thanks for all the great tips Blaine!
DSC_4440.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: derekmac
You must work for Southwest Airlines. The new color scheme left a bunch of desert tan in the store room, eh?
The company I work for does government contract work (re-winging, midlife upgrades, painting, ect) for Canadian CP-140's. I work in the Cormorant side of the company, and if you remember the VH-71 program, those nine airframes are sitting in my hangar.

The CP-140 is the bulk of our work, though I can't recall any part of it that's desert tan. We had a LOT of it to dispose of, so chances are someone screwed up ordering it.
 
Prep time is starting. Did a quick wash of the Jeep with dish soap to help get the bulk grime off, and I'm starting to strip the doors down. The drivers side door is pretty much ready to start sanding, and fixing the small rust spots.
IMG_20190517_210730.jpg
IMG_20190517_210712.jpg
 
Prep time is starting. Did a quick wash of the Jeep with dish soap to help get the bulk grime off, and I'm starting to strip the doors down. The drivers side door is pretty much ready to start sanding, and fixing the small rust spots.
View attachment 94319View attachment 94320
When you reattach the plastic dust shield, use new butyl rubber rope.
 
  • Like
Reactions: derekmac
When you reattach the plastic dust shield, use new butyl rubber rope.
I was going to ask if the plastic is really needed or not. Mine are in good shape, and I do have a couple of rolls of 3M DUM DUM tape, so it would be easy enough to put back on. Man, that old stuff is nasty to get off!
 
I was going to ask if the plastic is really needed or not. Mine are in good shape, and I do have a couple of rolls of 3M DUM DUM tape, so it would be easy enough to put back on. Man, that old stuff is nasty to get off!
DUM DUM is not the same in my experience or based on what we used that we called by that name. The old stuff doesn't need to be removed, just paint over to it or under the door panel enough that when the panel is installed, it hides the old color.
 
  • Like
Reactions: derekmac
Color changes suck, especially on a Jeep. As you are trying to mask stuff that you can’t easily remove or you want to avoid removing some of the heavier weight tinfoil will become your best friend. It’s great to wrap wire looms and some of the areas of the undercarriage.
 
  • Like
Reactions: derekmac
Color changes suck, especially on a Jeep. As you are trying to mask stuff that you can’t easily remove or you want to avoid removing some of the heavier weight tinfoil will become your best friend. It’s great to wrap wire looms and some of the areas of the undercarriage.
It definitely would have been easier using the matching silver that I have, but I wanted something different, and I haven't seen a desert tan TJ around here. I was going to go OD green, but there are a couple of those around.
 
  • Like
Reactions: billiebob