Painting a hardtop

lovemachine

lovemachine

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I found a factory hardtop on Craigslist. But is gray, I'd prefer black.

Anyone ever paint a hardtop? Rattlecan maybe?

Wonder if I can have it painted at a body shop....
 
Your top is made of fiberglass and already has a coat of paint on it.
plastic paint is not needed.

The prep is the most important part. You must make sure the top is clean.
Remove any wax, dirt, silicone(armor-all) with a good detergent or wax and grease remover (available at an autobody supply).

Scuff the top with 400 grit sandpaper.
If you dont want to remove the texture at least scuff it good with a scotchbright pad.

If you use a semi-gloss or satin paint you should be able to get an even finish without streaks if you start at one side and go up and over the roof and then down the other side.
Good luck.
 
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I would look at it this way: is my TJ a semi beater wheelin machine and looks don't matter; or I love wheelin her but I like when she is all cleaned up and looking good, too. If the former, rattle can it. If the latter, take it in for a pro job.
 
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My TJ Rubicon came with a grey hardtop, I painted it black myself.

It took me about 4 hours worth of prep work (sanding and stripping the rear window off and masking). Then it took me a days worth of applying multiple coats of SEM trim black spray paint (the only stuff I'd recommend as far as spray paint goes).

Years later and it looks good as new. You'd never know that it didn't come black from the factory, it looks THAT good!
 
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glwood said:
Per @Jerry Bransford - It's not fiberglass, it is made from Sheet Moulding Compound (SMC). Painting procedure would be as above described, and would look just as good as a professional job, at considerably less cost.
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Learned something new today, thanks. My hard top has a few spots where the top layer has chipped or pealed off and underneath is a white texture material that looks like fiberglass.
Should I worry about about those spots since its made from Sheet Moulding Compound?
 
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SMC is very similar to fiberglass and, like fiberglass is a composite material that uses fibers (I'm pretty certain Jeep used glass fibers) to reinforce a hardened resin. Composites like this rely on their outer layer of resin, gelcoat, or paint to protect the fibers and inner struction from sun damage and water penetration. Water penetration is an especially big problem because, in the marmer months it can promote mildew and rot and, in the colder months, can freeze and do serious damage.
I would think an epoxy would be a good choice for repair but best to do some searching to see what others have successfully used to repair their tops.
 
Thanks for the info!

I was tempted to buy it, but I'm thinking I'd rather buy a new soft top instead.
I wouldn't have to paint the soft top! And I feel like I have more options with the soft top VS the hardtop.
 
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Chris said:
My TJ Rubicon came with a grey hardtop, I painted it black myself.

It took me about 4 hours worth of prep work (sanding and stripping the rear window off and masking). Then it took me a days worth of applying multiple coats of SEM trim black spray paint (the only stuff I'd recommend as far as spray paint goes).

Years later and it looks good as new. You'd never know that it didn't come black from the factory, it looks THAT good!
Click to expand...
Did you use a clear coat over the SEM paint? I picked up a used hardtop a week or so ago and I’m thinking of painting it this summer.
 
I painted my YJ back in the day with a 1 part paint I got at Sipersteins.

Rolled and tipped it, it came out great and lasted.

Any marine stores near you? Lots of one part topside paints designed for fiberglass applications, they probably can steer you best
 
Chris said:
My TJ Rubicon came with a grey hardtop, I painted it black myself.

It took me about 4 hours worth of prep work (sanding and stripping the rear window off and masking). Then it took me a days worth of applying multiple coats of SEM trim black spray paint (the only stuff I'd recommend as far as spray paint goes).

Years later and it looks good as new. You'd never know that it didn't come black from the factory, it looks THAT good!
Click to expand...

@Chris Had to revive an old thread here since I am working on a lot of things during this corona virus quarantine situation. One of my several projects is a complete refurbish paint job on the trim, fender flares, and my hardtop. When you painted your hardtop did you use any adhesion spray from SEM like the SEM sand free?
I know I would use the SEM Sand Free on the ABS plastic for the flares and interior trim - but I don't know if I should use it for the Hardtop or if I should use a different kind of adhesion promoter.
 
RockstarBobby said:
@Chris Had to revive an old thread here since I am working on a lot of things during this corona virus quarantine situation. One of my several projects is a complete refurbish paint job on the trim, fender flares, and my hardtop. When you painted your hardtop did you use any adhesion spray from SEM like the SEM sand free?
I know I would use the SEM Sand Free on the ABS plastic for the flares and interior trim - but I don't know if I should use it for the Hardtop or if I should use a different kind of adhesion promoter.
Click to expand...

Nope, just a lot of elbow work and some grey Scotch Brite pads.
 
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I did my black hardtop with SEM trim black I didn’t do anything but wash the top first and then paint it. I’d say 2 cans should work fine. Mine is looking good 5 years later and it’s not garaged and my daily driver in the northeast.
 
Gloss or satin finish? I like the high shine of gloss. But is there any draw backs? Do you guys have any pics? Thanks!!
 
Just did today! I have always hated the cheap looking heavily textured finish, and I had some spots that needed a little body work anyway. Glass cloth, resin, Bondo in spots, no rocket science there. Used 2 part catalyzed high build primer and then the fun began. Orbital sander 80 grit, Wet sand 220, 400, 600. That took most of my free time for a week.

The auto paint store recommended High Tek Hot Rod matte black, its a 2 part one step urethane. One quart was exactly perfect for one heavy coat, and then one lighter coat to get the matte finish I was looking for. Had my buddy come over and shoot the color coats, he’s a lot better at that stuff than I am.

I think it came out great, the finish is more like a JL hard top, and looks much more up to date.

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