Painting prep question

I would be concerned about edge adhesion with just a scuff up... hopefully time will show that it was sufficient!

I'm doing a complete colour change (original Bright Silver to grey) except for under the hood with no edge blending of any primer or paint. I've done it this way before without any problems. I do have a few areas where I'l be going down to bare metal and the whole panel will be primed before painting.
 
As someone who spent 3 summers in a body shop, I can say that it's almost always preferred NOT to sand down to bare metal. The only time we ever did was for sheet metal repair.

The rule of thumb for spraying new panels is if you're trying to color match and the base color is the same color as what you are painting, we would use a base primer/sealer and respray, sanding as needed with the MFG recommended grit.

If you're changing colors, like in your case of going from green to silver, then we would sand with the appropriate grit (again, according to MFG recommendation), use 2 coats of a sealer+build up primer, and then spray color. For silver, I would imagine the proper base primer color is a 15-18% grey (what most grey primers are).
I'm considering repainting my LJ. The overall paint from afar looks good. Shines good in the sun and doesn't have the typical Arizona sun damage. The problem I have are crows feet cracks on the side panels and doors. Seems like the only solution for that is going down to bare metal. Besides picking a paint shop, I just need to decide if I'm going to stay with the black paint or switch it up and go to a lighter color. If I had the skills, I would've loved to paint it myself.
 
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I'm doing a complete colour change (original Bright Silver to grey) except for under the hood with no edge blending of any primer or paint. I've done it this way before without any problems. I do have a few areas where I'l be going down to bare metal and the whole panel will be primed before painting.
Good to hear!

In my experience, we only used Scotch Brite pads in two scenarios: small area scuffing for prep (usually after rust or sheet metal repair) OR for in-between scuffs of primer or base-color coats that have cured for too long (usually MFG's say if a layer has sat for more than 7 days, it needs to be scuffed). However, we always went with MFG recommendations for prep requirements for full panels. This was mainly to ensure color and texture match as well as give good edge adhesion.

We never did a color change without full prime coat - post up your results when you're done, I'm curious to see how well it comes out. I do not envy you spraying silver pearl :)
 
Good to hear!

In my experience, we only used Scotch Brite pads in two scenarios: small area scuffing for prep (usually after rust or sheet metal repair) OR for in-between scuffs of primer or base-color coats that have cured for too long (usually MFG's say if a layer has sat for more than 7 days, it needs to be scuffed). However, we always went with MFG recommendations for prep requirements for full panels. This was mainly to ensure color and texture match as well as give good edge adhesion.

We never did a color change without full prime coat - post up your results when you're done, I'm curious to see how well it comes out. I do not envy you spraying silver pearl :)

Lots to do yet but it's getting there ...

20-11-19 8.JPG
 
I had planned to sand the half doors down, prime, paint etc. I was talking with a friend and he asked “why not just paint over what is ...
No need to guess, wonder, ask strangers on the internet, or have a medium consult the spirits of long dead paint chemists. Go to the manufacturers website, read their instructions, then follow them exactly. If you have questions about the the manufacturers procedure for the product you bought then ask questions. I'll get you started ...
https://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray-paint-directions.htm
 
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Finished removing adhesive from a door seal today, it might as well have been welded on. Got the paint and did a test run, pretty pleased with the results for PSB in a rattle can. We will know how it turns out by tomorrow night!

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We decided to roll-on a heavy coat of box-liner
• I assume we should still rough up / sand the original paint
• I haven’t checked with the application info of the product ( haven’t decided what brand box liner coat either)

Thx for everyone’s input in advance 💯%👍🏿
 
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