Parasitic battery draw unsolved / radio

rockbottom

rockbottom

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Joined
Jul 15, 2023
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MT olive , Ms
I havent had any feedback on this issue
Probably because it was being discussed on “replace rubicon radio post”

Any way this is a copy of what I replied to
But i think it got lost with time

However I want to get fresh insight and see if anyone can help figure this out

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rockbottom said:
However I want to get fresh insight and see if anyone can help figure this out
Click to expand...

There will be a small draw on fuse 20 for the memory and clock even with the key off.
Fuse 14 feeds the radio only when key is on.
I don't think there should be a draw on fuse 3 (subwoofer) until the radio turns on and sends a signal to it.

Does the amp draw on fuse 20 change if you pull fuse 3?
 
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Someone just posted a similar thread not more then a week or two ago that I was helping

If memory serves, less then 0.4 amp draw for memory on that circuit. Anything over 0.5 amps is a problem
 
I pulled the subwoofer fuse
No change on the 15 amp radio fuse

I removed the console and disconnected the subwoofer
The 20 amp fuse 3 is zero with subwoofer
Disconnected

Im under .4 but it will drain a good battery in a few days?
 
CreepinDeth said:
Someone just posted a similar thread not more then a week or two ago that I was helping

If memory serves, less then 0.4 amp draw for memory on that circuit. Anything over 0.5 amps is a problem
Click to expand...

rockbottom said:
Im under .4 but it will drain a good battery in a few days?
Click to expand...

iirc, the general rule is to not have more draw than .05 amps (50mA).
 
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What is your total draw on the battery?

When I’m unsure of which circuit is bad, I’ll pull fuses in bunches and then narrow the bad circuit(s) down if things change.

Take a photo of your fuses or use the backside cover to put the fuses back in their correct spots.

I usually use my clamp-on DC ammeter instead of using my multimeter in series.
 
I have it narrowed down to the radio fuse under the hood using a amp hog diagnostics tool

My question is why are 2 different OEM radios showing the same draw of 360 milliamps
1 radio could be a bad radio but 2 radios doing the same is hard to accept

Is tgere a way to test a removed radio?
 
rockbottom said:
I have it narrowed down to the radio fuse under the hood using a amp hog diagnostics tool

My question is why are 2 different OEM radios showing the same draw of 360 milliamps
1 radio could be a bad radio but 2 radios doing the same is hard to accept

Is tgere a way to test a removed radio?
Click to expand...

I am not familiar with the tool you are using. I have always used an amp meter or tester light in series on the negative cable to trace down a parasitic drain. The radio may have capacitors that need to charge here you put a amp meter in series and then used a jumper to bypass meter for a few seconds to charge any capacitors?
I looked at that tool looks like it is just a amp meter.
 
rockbottom said:
I have it narrowed down to the radio fuse under the hood using a amp hog diagnostics tool

My question is why are 2 different OEM radios showing the same draw of 360 milliamps
1 radio could be a bad radio but 2 radios doing the same is hard to accept

Is tgere a way to test a removed radio?
Click to expand...

Does this only occur when the radio is connected?

You could have a short at the wiring or an internal short on the parts.

Use a multimeter and wiring diagrams (using an FSM for your year) to check the continuity between your voltage and ground on the wires. I’d also pay attention to resistance when you do this.

Then do the same on both devices. If there’s a short on both radios but your wiring is good then that likely means both radios had an internal problem.

If the wiring is bad, then fix it of course but still check the devices bc bad wiring could have damaged the devices.
 
If you put your meter between the (+) and (-) pins or wires from fuse 14 (at C1) without the radio plugged in, this should tell you if the draw is the radio or in the wiring harness.
 
Thats a good idea
I will check at C1 when i pull the radio again tomorrow

Do you identify the + wire by color
Or is the a connector schematic in the FSM
 
Per FSM
(+) is pin 2 - DG/GY
(-) is pin 11 - Blk and/or 22 - BK/LG

Fuse 14 is main power for the radio and is keyed power.
Fuse 20 is constant on power for a multiple of things that might need power when the key is off.
The radio's memory and clock for example.
 
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Thanks so much
I agree this should identify
Wiring or radio

Im suspicious of wiring since both radios show the same MA draw

Ill let you know what I find
 
One more thought?
Fuse 14 does not show any MA draw

Fuse 20 is the draw of 360 MA
It appears to be at C1 also
What is S210 feed

Assume i need to check both of these too
 
Stranger things have happened😵‍💫

I just pulled the radio
I decided to go to ground and check every plug with the +side of the meter

Top row all zeros until there was a reading on the passenger end of the connector on a blue with red tracer wire

I didnt get to focus on the number but saw a reading

Moving around the wires and checking again it was zero

Checking the bottom row all zeros

Checked fuse 20 and now its showing zero after several checks
Fuse 14 still zero

Im thinking the connector or all the factory splices behind the connector must be the problem and moving it all around cleared the short?

As of now its still zero

I need to find out where the blue/red wire goes
There are two blue/ red
One on top and one on bottom of the connector

All strange
 
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