OP
I bought a small wireless/WiFi camera to do some inspections on the house and wanted to see how it worked on the LJ frame. The pictures came out a little fuzzy, I think I need to play with some settings (the photos inside the house crawlspace and similar were excellent!) but you can get the idea of what the frame looks like. Overall, it's immaculate - despite being (literally!) plugged with mud in some spots when I first got it.
With the weather changing to fall, winter is only weeks away. I took advantage of a 70º day and figured it was the best time to start my annual rust-prevention measures. I picked up two cans of Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating and watched a few YouTube videos. After two additional power-washings and a few days of drying out, it was time to get down to it.
I taped up most of the holes in the frame and torque boxes/tub rails. The hose included with the Eastwood can is ~24" long, and gives you maybe 20" of useful length.
The hose has a conical sprayer on the end that sprays in about a 140º pattern outward. In something like a frame, the pattern works well for coverage. To apply, you simply depress the nozzle and "pull" the hose along while holding the nozzle depressed. I found it easiest and most controlled to spray and pull back about 7-8" at a time. Then I repositioned my hand on the hose and repeated until the end of the hose was almost clear of the hole.
The nozzle and spray pattern is quite vigorous. Combined with the very low viscosity of the coating, it will find any crack or loose piece of tape you have. As a result, you DO NOT want to do this on a concrete driveway without serious drop cloth/tarp protection. My blacktop driveway was easy to wipe clean and it's already black, so not a worry there. On light concrete, this will make a mess.
I used gravity to my advantage and parked the Jeep facing uphill on the part of the driveway with a decent scope. This meant the coating flowed through the frame towards the rear, rather than just pool in spots. When I got to the rear, a bit of material was flowing out the back of the lower bumper bolt, which I figured is where water and salt would accumulate if it were ever to touch this frame anyways, so it made sense to go "heavy to the rear". If you look close below, you can see a few drips on the bottom bumper bracket.
The photo above gives a good shot of the new Poison Spyder Frame Stiffeners - I got these cheap on Amazon and figured it was a good move for towing/snatching.
Overall, I'm curious to see how well the coating actually coated the inside of the frame. I used 1 and 1/2 cans of coating, with a 1/2 can remaining for touch-ups if needed. This included the frame, the tubular crossmember across the front of the frame, and both torque boxes under the tub that run parallel to the frame rails. Since I got two cans, I also have an extra hose handy to reapply if needed. I'll give the paint a few days to cure and then I'll stick my camera down there and see what it looks like!
All I need to do now is drop the fuel tank to install the Savvy GTS. While it's down, I'll put some undercoating on the rear of the tub and frame and should get through this winter without any issues.
With the weather changing to fall, winter is only weeks away. I took advantage of a 70º day and figured it was the best time to start my annual rust-prevention measures. I picked up two cans of Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating and watched a few YouTube videos. After two additional power-washings and a few days of drying out, it was time to get down to it.
I taped up most of the holes in the frame and torque boxes/tub rails. The hose included with the Eastwood can is ~24" long, and gives you maybe 20" of useful length.
The hose has a conical sprayer on the end that sprays in about a 140º pattern outward. In something like a frame, the pattern works well for coverage. To apply, you simply depress the nozzle and "pull" the hose along while holding the nozzle depressed. I found it easiest and most controlled to spray and pull back about 7-8" at a time. Then I repositioned my hand on the hose and repeated until the end of the hose was almost clear of the hole.
The nozzle and spray pattern is quite vigorous. Combined with the very low viscosity of the coating, it will find any crack or loose piece of tape you have. As a result, you DO NOT want to do this on a concrete driveway without serious drop cloth/tarp protection. My blacktop driveway was easy to wipe clean and it's already black, so not a worry there. On light concrete, this will make a mess.
I used gravity to my advantage and parked the Jeep facing uphill on the part of the driveway with a decent scope. This meant the coating flowed through the frame towards the rear, rather than just pool in spots. When I got to the rear, a bit of material was flowing out the back of the lower bumper bolt, which I figured is where water and salt would accumulate if it were ever to touch this frame anyways, so it made sense to go "heavy to the rear". If you look close below, you can see a few drips on the bottom bumper bracket.
The photo above gives a good shot of the new Poison Spyder Frame Stiffeners - I got these cheap on Amazon and figured it was a good move for towing/snatching.
Overall, I'm curious to see how well the coating actually coated the inside of the frame. I used 1 and 1/2 cans of coating, with a 1/2 can remaining for touch-ups if needed. This included the frame, the tubular crossmember across the front of the frame, and both torque boxes under the tub that run parallel to the frame rails. Since I got two cans, I also have an extra hose handy to reapply if needed. I'll give the paint a few days to cure and then I'll stick my camera down there and see what it looks like!
All I need to do now is drop the fuel tank to install the Savvy GTS. While it's down, I'll put some undercoating on the rear of the tub and frame and should get through this winter without any issues.
