PC1P's 2006 Jeep LJ Build - Brünhilde
- Thread starter pc1p
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Before buying I would ask on here to see if anybody has run the wheel you choose. I've run 15" Dick Cepek DC2's and Trailready Beadlocks 3.5" BS wheels on the 16" mode of the 15/16 BBK. There's not much room to spare but they work.
OP
No, the factory brakes clear 15"s with ease - I was talking in reference to your comment about 15"s clearing "future big brakes" and was pointing out that even the most common BBK kit will clear 15"s without much fuss, but as @Apparition said, if you can check with someone who has that setup already it may save you some headache...
You've actually made my day. Between trying to get this thing out of the stratosphere and a tire/wheel package that I'd like, i.e. 15", I now have a definitive answer to one of those questions - which wheels to shop for. Off to the picture threads.. I'll probably go with something other than the black steel 'D' wheels on my XJ.. something a little spiffier.
I appreciate the feedback from all.
I appreciate the feedback from all.
OP
They can rust out fast for sure... cars are better nowadays but still, the rust will catch up to many folks who just view their cars as a "way to get from Point A to Point B". I have a free 5.3LS/4L65E combo waiting for me because of this very reason (the truck rusted out with only 130k miles on it).
When I lived here in the past, I never had rust issues, but I was diligent and OCD about it. I did frequent winter cleanings (with hot water and soap), which in my opinion probably goes the longest way. Every spring, I religiously touched up any undercoating or paint that was damaged (usually not much, except for the occasional rock chip on the inner fender or frame rails). Before winter hits again, I usually do what I'm doing now and touch up suspension components, axles, steering, etc. with a rust-preventive spray paint.
When I sold my XJ, about 5 months after moving to Arizona, the guy (who flew in from LA) said to me "I thought you said this was from PA?" (commenting on how super clean the undercarriage was). The only slightest hint of rust was the very bottom of the front bumper since I didn't have much time from when we had our last snowfall to when we moved (the pic above was taken during the 15" of snow that fell on Tax Day, April 15th, 2005 - we moved to AZ on May 21st).
You can see the thin band of rust at the bottom of the bumper. DHL someone "lost" the bumper for over 2 months and I had to put a coat of paint on it using heat lamps in a basement garage. You can also see my very beautiful girlfriend, who was very excited to get some fresh coffee, who eventually became the Mrs
Luckily, I won't drive it much in the winter except for playing around in the snow. I have a hose in the garage and it's heated, so shouldn't be too big an issue to give a quick rinse once I'm done playing. If I need a more thorough rinse, there is a heated coin-operated wash bay in the small town about 4 miles away.
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Funny stuff.. I too have a built XJ.. also black like my new LJR but pinstriped.
OP
I haven't been in an XJ in a long time - but I'd love to find a clean one for my daughter and son... nothing crazy, just a small lift, 31" A/Ts, TrueTrac rear, decent radio, and good A/C.
Local guys are lining up to buy mine now that I got the LJ. Keeping it for the more hardcore trail rides, and eventually it will end up with a grandson.
Have you cycled your rear suspension? If my lower shock mounts were moved that far out the shock would hit the frame at articulation.
I get to learn to cycle mine now that I has the Super Dooper 9000 suspension.
OP
I have and get a very slight "kiss" of the shock on the frame rail during full articulation. Clayton warns of this - they say that "big body" shocks may rub.
You can see the passenger side shock here where the black paint gets worn off and the white paint below pokes through (or in some cases also gets rubbed off). This photo was taken on the TJ, the LJ is basically the same. Someone said that the R5000x series shocks have a large rebound bumper inside the body that sits inside that contoured portion of the shock (at full extension), so this wouldn't cause any long-term issues and I haven't seen any. It hasn't shown to be problematic, so as the LJ wears the paint down here, I'll just touch it up to keep the rust away and call it good (until I get around to installing the mid-arm and outboard setup).
OP
The new Delphi fuel pump module arrived, so I went a cleaned out the tank and did the filler mod while I was there... (pre-mod photo below):
With everything in place, I went and installed the tank, or at least I tried to. With the Savvy GTS orientated in the "highest" position (i.e. most ground clearance setup), the top of the vapor/emissions hoses were pressing against the tub. I removed and repositioned the tank to the lowest setting for now and may revisit going back to the taller setting in the spring time when it's warmer and I have time to fiddle with it.
When it finally cooled down last week I noticed my engine temps were barely above 160º, so I figured another Fail-Safe ironically failed.
I had a new Super Stant 195º in the parts bin but the t-stat housing was known to cause me some grief and there was some obvious pitting, so I went and decided to replace it.
At NAPA, I found the perfect panel clip replacements for the wheelwell liners - photo below shows the P/N if you ever need it...
With everything in place, I went and installed the tank, or at least I tried to. With the Savvy GTS orientated in the "highest" position (i.e. most ground clearance setup), the top of the vapor/emissions hoses were pressing against the tub. I removed and repositioned the tank to the lowest setting for now and may revisit going back to the taller setting in the spring time when it's warmer and I have time to fiddle with it.
When it finally cooled down last week I noticed my engine temps were barely above 160º, so I figured another Fail-Safe ironically failed.
I had a new Super Stant 195º in the parts bin but the t-stat housing was known to cause me some grief and there was some obvious pitting, so I went and decided to replace it.
At NAPA, I found the perfect panel clip replacements for the wheelwell liners - photo below shows the P/N if you ever need it...
With the tank out, are we able to see the charcoal can up there ?
My check engine light is P0441. Changed the purge valve but did not help.
OP
You don't need to remove the gas tank to see the charcoal canister, at least not on the 05-06... I can get to it by simply removing the wheel well liners and reaching up in there. What I've seen on evap codes like this is that the charcoal canister itself has failed, allowing charcoal bits to move through the system. I would remove it, clear the lines with some low pressure compressed air, and replace the canister with a new one.
OP
OP
As the days continued to get shorter and darker, I thought it would be a good idea to see what I could do about visibility through the windows of the hardtop...
A couple minutes with the scraper and heat gun and I was able to get all three rear windows pulled clean of the 5% tint that was overlaid over factory tint. This has been a huge improvement ininvisibility visibility - I can actually see when backing up now!
Got our first snowfall too - about 2-1/2" in total - so I had to play around. The LJ handled great, which was a surprise considering all the "yOu'Re GoNnA dIe On Mt/Rs!" comments on various forums and FB pages.
A couple minutes with the scraper and heat gun and I was able to get all three rear windows pulled clean of the 5% tint that was overlaid over factory tint. This has been a huge improvement in
Got our first snowfall too - about 2-1/2" in total - so I had to play around. The LJ handled great, which was a surprise considering all the "yOu'Re GoNnA dIe On Mt/Rs!" comments on various forums and FB pages.
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