Pinion seal issue

azroc909

azroc909

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 10, 2018
Messages
170
Location
Big Texas
Ok so... I decided to tackle on the job on replacing my both leaky pinion seals, but there are so many options Amax-ADA, Spicer, Yukon etc. which one would be the correct ones? I've narrowed it down to either oem or
Crown and
Omix-ADA 16521.10 and 16521.12
Which were the only ones that i saw state it replaces oem part numbers
5072473AA- DANA 30
83504946- DANA 35
On my 2006 se 4.0 automatic
Also PO had rear redone with posi traction does that make a difference on the rear seal? Any help will be helpfull.
Thanks!

Front

20190113_114141.jpg


Rear

20190113_113846.jpg
 
Last edited:
Use genuine Mopar or spicer. Front definitely needs replaced. I wouldn’t touch the rear one. It’s not leaking enough to bother with yet. Clean the crud off the outside. Check oil level and monitor.
 
Amen . Don't disturb one unless it's necessary.

And be up to par on torque specs and crush washers on reassembly .
 
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Daryl said:
Use genuine Mopar or spicer. Front definitely needs replaced. I wouldn’t touch the rear one. It’s not leaking enough to bother with yet. Clean the crud off the outside. Check oil level and monitor.
Click to expand...


Ok will do makes sence thanks
 
Find someone who sells Spicer. Mopar is a spicer part with a Mopar sticker and extra price.
 
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When I cut open the Mopar pinion seal package 4 weeks ago for my Dana 35, the seal was a National brand. Paid $35 for it. The same National part # was $7 something from a local jobber store.
 
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RaymondT said:
When I cut open the Mopar pinion seal package 4 weeks ago for my Dana 35, the seal was a National brand. Paid $35 for it. The same National part # was $7 something from a local jobber store.
Click to expand...

Dang that sucks, i figure... your paying for the name only. Since it's only a seal I'm leaning more towards an aftermarket that have good reviews. I've read peaple with oem leaked even more.
Thanks
 
RaymondT said:
When I cut open the Mopar pinion seal package 4 weeks ago for my Dana 35, the seal was a National brand. Paid $35 for it. The same National part # was $7 something from a local jobber store.
Click to expand...

You don't remember what part number was on it would you?
 
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My Dana 30 is a 2001 and that's the year Mopar changed to a flanged seal, National part # 740461, going by my parts book for that year.

https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?pNum=710461&partType=Oil Seal&brandId=NW

* But, if you go by the Dana-Spicer Jeep catalog, TJ section, the equivalent to National part # 4434V is called out. It has a slightly different and thicker flange. Probably could use either.

The Dana 35 in my parts book calls out 470331N but I prefer the 714675 flanged-type called out for all Dana 35 variations in the Dana-Spicer catalog.

https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?pNum=714675&partType=Oil Seal&brandId=NW
 
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If you don't bother with the factory method of torquing the nut and measuring the rotational force, just torque it to 180 ft-lbs with a shot of blue loc-tite on the threads. Using a Spicer crush sleeve and carefully measuring the force required to compress it further, I found it took at least 290-300 ft lbs so you're quite safe.

Not sure why some people want to mark the threads and position of the nut in those youtube videos.
 
RaymondT said:
My Dana 30 is a 2001 and that's the year Mopar changed to a flanged seal, National part # 740461, going by my parts book for that year.

https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?pNum=710461&partType=Oil Seal&brandId=NW

* But, if you go by the Dana-Spicer Jeep catalog, TJ section, the equivalent to National part # 4434V is called out. It has a slightly different and thicker flange. Probably could use either.

The Dana 35 in my parts book calls out 470331N but I prefer the 714675 flanged-type called out for all Dana 35 variations in the Dana-Spicer catalog.

https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?pNum=714675&partType=Oil Seal&brandId=NW
Click to expand...

So that should be Spicer PN 43085. You do have to be careful as there are two different seal surface diameters especially if you change to a ubolt style yoke.
 
RaymondT said:
If you don't bother with the factory method of torquing the nut and measuring the rotational force, just torque it to 180 ft-lbs with a shot of blue loc-tite on the threads. Using a Spicer crush sleeve and carefully measuring the force required to compress it further, I found it took at least 290-300 ft lbs so you're quite safe.

Not sure why some people want to mark the threads and position of the nut in those Youtube videos.
Click to expand...
that's what i was going on by those videos i saw, so it is not reliable to just mark /count the threads and mark the nut and shaft and call it a day?
 
RaymondT said:
My Dana 30 is a 2001 and that's the year Mopar changed to a flanged seal, National part # 740461, going by my parts book for that year.

https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?pNum=710461&partType=Oil Seal&brandId=NW

* But, if you go by the Dana-Spicer Jeep catalog, TJ section, the equivalent to National part # 4434V is called out. It has a slightly different and thicker flange. Probably could use either.

The Dana 35 in my parts book calls out 470331N but I prefer the 714675 flanged-type called out for all Dana 35 variations in the Dana-Spicer catalog.

https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?pNum=714675&partType=Oil Seal&brandId=NW
Click to expand...

i assume these part numbers would be the same to go by for my 2006 since yours is a 2001...?
 
When I did mine, Dana 35, I did mark everything and then watched the torque as I tightened it back down to where it was marked. It came out to about 220#. I actually had to change mine a few times as it wouldn't seal up for me. Finally I talked to someone at Spicer and they recommended an "oil slinger". This was basically a big washer that helps to deflect some of the oil back into the pumpkin and was used off and on in TJs. Worked like a charm. As stated, use Spicer parts.
 
liquidfluidity said:
When I did mine, Dana 35, I did mark everything and then watched the torque as I tightened it back down to where it was marked. It came out to about 220#. I actually had to change mine a few times as it wouldn't seal up for me. Finally I talked to someone at Spicer and they recommended an "oil slinger". This was basically a big washer that helps to deflect some of the oil back into the pumpkin and was used off and on in TJs. Worked like a charm. As stated, use Spicer parts.
Click to expand...
I hear you, you wouldn't happen to have part numbers for both oil slingers front 30 rear 35. I tried calling jeep to get an oem oil slinger part numbers to cross reference them but guy couldn't come up with one at all only seal and bearing behind it
 
azroc909 said:
I hear you, you wouldn't happen to have part numbers for both oil slingers front 30 rear 35. I tried calling jeep to get an oem oil slinger part numbers to cross reference them but guy couldn't come up with one at all only seal and bearing behind it
Click to expand...

I'll see if I have any receipts. I think I got it from spicer. Not home right now.
 
azroc909 said:
I hear you, you wouldn't happen to have part numbers for both oil slingers front 30 rear 35. I tried calling jeep to get an oem oil slinger part numbers to cross reference them but guy couldn't come up with one at all only seal and bearing behind it
Click to expand...

Dana 30 pinion baffle Spicer PN 13575. Jeep Dana 35 did not come with a baffle but Fords did and it will work Spicer PN 42778.
 
I could have sworn that the blow up I saw stated that it was fora Jeep. Either way, it worked like a charm and it has been dry as a bone for a few years now.

Good job Blackjack!
 
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