POLL: Which track bar should i get?

[Chris]

That's Jeep jewelry right there @Jerry Bransford.
View attachment 18559
The problem with a lot of the well regarded track bars is they don't work and are unsafe at low lift heights. Anything less than about 2" of realized lift gets problematic.

Good point! At 2" of lift or less, I think that often times the best solution may just be the stock track bar with relocation brackets. Either that, or a much smaller track bar that won't get in the way of things. The Currie track bar is so beefy that I can envision some serious binding issues at 2" of lift or less.

 

[Ahoragi]

I have the MC bar and on heim #3. The heims loosen up a little bit and cause a clatter/clank when turning. This new joint seems to be holding up fine now.

I am using it with approx 1" of lift alongside Curries steering.

My stock bar was tired and i wanted an atermarkrt bar that would be ready when i upgraded from 1" and MC fit the bill.

 

[Squatch]

If I may, I'd like to revive this thread with a related question. Being that I've purchased some OME HD springs (only the springs) for my '98 Sahara, the issue of TBs and relocation brackets are now of particular interest to me. Just as a starting point, I looked at a JKS adjustable TB on Quadratec's website to get an idea of cost, and such. I saw a note that raised a question for me:

1. Requires 0 to 6.0 in. suspension lift.
2. For vehicles equipped with CV-type driveshaft order
Track Bar 16007 007 which includes the required
angle relocation bracket

My question is regarding something that I read here all the time: "Every TJ is different". Hmmm... So it's something of a crapshoot as to whether or not I'll end up with a vibration after installing the springs. If I do, I might need an SYE and a CV driveshaft, if I understand it correctly. So, it would behoove me to wait and see if I have a vibration before buying an adjustable TB, as the results of that determine which style of TB I would need to purchase. Is that correct? I'd rather do an adjustable TB over installing a relocation bracket for the stock TB. Just seems like the difference between running wheels with the correct backspacing vs running wheel spacers (no offense intended to anyone, here). So "no vibes = stock driveshaft = one style of TB", while "vibes = SYE and CV driveshaft = a different style of TB". Is this the likely scenario? Please advise.

 

[JMT]

1. Do the lift
2. Drive it to see if you have vibes
2a. If no vibes then check if your axles are centered under the frame. If not get adjustable trackbars.
2b. If vibes then there are three options; a SYE and DC (double cardan), not a CV (constant velocity), or a 1” motor mount lift, or a Transfer Case drop of about 5/8-3/4”.
3. Check if your rear sway bar links are rubbing your brake line. If so get an extended sway bar link

For DC I’d go with Tom Wood $250
For SYE I’d go with a Super Short from Teraflex or JB Conversions $300
For Motor Mount Lift I’d go with Brown Dog or M.O.R.E $115-170
For TCase drop just use washers and longer bolts $12
For adjustable Trackbar I’d go with Metalcloak $179. Currie is good, but more $$
Extended sway bar link for rear Rubicon’s Express 1155 $30

 

[bobthetj03]

I agree with everything @JMT said, but I'll add JKS track bar. It's a good product with a proven JJ at one end. I also agree with you on getting a rear adjustable TB instead of the relocation bracket, provided you don't go the SYE route, in which case you'll need a angled relocation bracket anyway in conjunction with an adjustable TB.

 

[Mike_H]

If I may, I'd like to revive this thread with a related question. Being that I've purchased some OME HD springs (only the springs) for my '98 Sahara, the issue of TBs and relocation brackets are now of particular interest to me. Just as a starting point, I looked at a JKS adjustable TB on Quadratec's website to get an idea of cost, and such. I saw a note that raised a question for me:

1. Requires 0 to 6.0 in. suspension lift.
2. For vehicles equipped with CV-type driveshaft order
Track Bar 16007 007 which includes the required
angle relocation bracket

My question is regarding something that I read here all the time: "Every TJ is different". Hmmm... So it's something of a crapshoot as to whether or not I'll end up with a vibration after installing the springs. If I do, I might need an SYE and a CV driveshaft, if I understand it correctly. So, it would behoove me to wait and see if I have a vibration before buying an adjustable TB, as the results of that determine which style of TB I would need to purchase. Is that correct? I'd rather do an adjustable TB over installing a relocation bracket for the stock TB. Just seems like the difference between running wheels with the correct backspacing vs running wheel spacers (no offense intended to anyone, here). So "no vibes = stock driveshaft = one style of TB", while "vibes = SYE and CV driveshaft = a different style of TB". Is this the likely scenario? Please advise.

I think you're looking at the rear trackbar @Squatch . If you want an adjustable for the front, you need P/N OGS126 from JKS. Its for 0-3.5" Lift. For the OME springs, you should be able to get by with just a bracket in back.

 

[StG58]

I think you're looking at the rear trackbar @Squatch . If you want an adjustable for the front, you need P/N OGS126 from JKS. Its for 0-3.5" Lift. For the OME springs, you should be able to get by with just a bracket in back.

Correct. JKS OGS126 is for TJ's with 1 to 3-1/2" of lift in the front.

 

[bobthetj03]

Correct. JKS OGS126 is for TJ's with 1 to 3-1/2" of lift in the fronr.

I've had this TB on my rig for 100K with no problems. Solid unit.

 

[StG58]

I've had this TB on my rig for 100K with no problems. Solid unit.

...and it clears a stock Dana 30 at very low lift heights. Under full articulation.

 

[bobthetj03]

...and it clears a stock Dana 30 at very low lift heights. Under full articulation.

Yes, it does, as long as your control arm lengths are factory length and you don't have one them super thick, armor plated diff covers.

 

[StG58]

Yes, it does, as long as your control arm lengths are factory length and you don't have one them super thick, armor plated diff covers.

Lol, yup. There's always caveats to any TJ part.

It's like "Can I fit 31x10.50's on my stock wheels on a stock TJ?" Why yes, yes you can. But...

 

[Squatch]

1. Do the lift
2. Drive it to see if you have vibes
2a. If no vibes then check if your axles are centered under the frame. If not get adjustable trackbars.
2b. If vibes then there are three options; a SYE and DC (double cardan), not a CV (constant velocity), or a 1” motor mount lift, or a Transfer Case drop of about 5/8-3/4”.
3. Check if your rear sway bar links are rubbing your brake line. If so get an extended sway bar link

For DC I’d go with Tom Wood $250
For SYE I’d go with a Super Short from Teraflex or JB Conversions $300
For Motor Mount Lift I’d go with Brown Dog or M.O.R.E $115-170
For TCase drop just use washers and longer bolts $12
For adjustable Trackbar I’d go with Metalcloak $179. Currie is good, but more $$
Extended sway bar link for rear Rubicon’s Express 1155 $30

Thanks, @JMT! A "go to" list, if ever there was one! LOL I'm embarrassed by the "CV-type driveshaft" notes, as I know that's not what they are. I was lead down the wrong path by the ad notes for the JKS TB...(Oy!) As for the Currie TB, I thought @StG58 had commented somewhere that there was a potential for interference due to the larger diameter of the Currie TB when used on low-lift rigs. As I'm writing this, it occurs to me that he may have been talking about front TBs. Also, he may have been referring to a TJ with H&R springs (lower lift). I can't recall...

 

[Squatch]

I think you're looking at the rear trackbar @Squatch . If you want an adjustable for the front, you need P/N OGS126 from JKS. Its for 0-3.5" Lift. For the OME springs, you should be able to get by with just a bracket in back.

Yep, I was looking at the rear TB. I was doing so just to get an idea on cost and such, when that note in the JKS ad kind of made me stop and question the order things should be done in.

 

[StG58]

Thanks, @JMT! A "go to" list, if ever there was one! LOL I'm embarrassed by the "CV-type driveshaft" notes, as I know that's not what they are. I was lead down the wrong path by the ad notes for the JKS TB...(Oy!) As for the Currie TB, I thought @StG58 had commented somewhere that there was a potential for interference due to the larger diameter of the Currie TB when used on low-lift rigs. As I'm writing this, it occurs to me that he may have been talking about front TBs. Also, he may have been referring to a TJ with H&R springs (lower lift). I can't recall...

Yup, front track bars. Not H&R specific, it's just that H&R has the lowest lift available.

The low lift caveat came from all the discussion of LCOG builds on three forums that shall remain nameless. The two that floated to the top as being the most reliable for lifts that were under about 2-1/2" were the JKS and Currie front track bars. The JKS is supposed to work with no modifications and the Currie works, but needs to be shortened in certain applications. Not much, but there it is. The Metalcloak works after modifications. Most of the time.

@bobthetj03's comment about the relocation bracket in the rear is a new one to me, but makes sense. There are other issues, it seems, in the rear at low (less than 2-1/2"s of lift) builds that need to be looked for. Worst case, you can always bump stop for clearance. I'm going for the most balanced articulation I can get, so my focus is on not having to bump stop for clearance if at all possible. That's hard. Very hard.

 

[bobthetj03]

Yep @StG58, it is a balancing act for sure. If you aren't bump stopping for tire clearance into your fenders, then you are bump stopping to avoid stuff hitting other stuff in the suspension/steering/gas tank. Either way, if you change a component to stray from the factory geometry, it's on you to make it right.

 

[JMT]

All that said, you might see how much lift you get out of the OME springs. In either case, the JKS trackbar looks like a good choice in the front and rear. I use the MC up front with no issues and the relocation bracket in the rear (I'm hovering around 2.5" lift).

 

[StG58]

Yep @StG58, it is a balancing act for sure. If you aren't bump stopping for tire clearance into your fenders, then you are bump stopping to avoid stuff hitting other stuff in the suspension/steering/gas tank. Either way, if you change a component to stray from the factory geometry, it's on you to make it right.

Amen brotha'... My TJ gives me grey hairs trying to work all this stuff out. Especially since I can't just throw a part at it and then dump it if it doesn't work out. Sometimes that stock '03-'04 TJR is really appealing. 31x10.50's, a Warn winch, a CB and call it good. Pop some popcorn, sit back and watch the show.

 

[Fouledplugs]

1. Do the lift
2. Drive it to see if you have vibes
2a. If no vibes then check if your axles are centered under the frame. If not get adjustable trackbars.
2b. If vibes then there are three options; a SYE and DC (double cardan), not a CV (constant velocity), or a 1” motor mount lift, or a Transfer Case drop of about 5/8-3/4”.
3. Check if your rear sway bar links are rubbing your brake line. If so get an extended sway bar link

For DC I’d go with Tom Wood $250
For SYE I’d go with a Super Short from Teraflex or JB Conversions $300
For Motor Mount Lift I’d go with Brown Dog or M.O.R.E $115-170
For TCase drop just use washers and longer bolts $12
For adjustable Trackbar I’d go with Metalcloak $179. Currie is good, but more $$
Extended sway bar link for rear Rubicon’s Express 1155 $30

@JMT this is some solid advice.
While I dont agree with, “workarounds,” like the skid drop, IMO it’s counter intuitive to lifting a Wrangler. However that is just my .02

 

[Mike_H]

Shoot....I didn't even realize Currie MADE a trackbar for low lift applications. Its Clever! Spendy, but clever.

Regarding the different brackets for the rear end, when you start rotating your axle...all KINDS of geometry goes out the window. Those brackets are made to get the movement of the trackbar motion back into the "vertical" plane.

As I Think about my tummy tuck, I'm starting to believe that to REALLY do it right, I need to go all MrBlaine. You know, move the spring perches, outboard the shocks, weld in a new TB bracket. There is a LOT to consider. Even an SYE and DC Driveshaft requires you to rotate the axle. Well, the SYE by itself doesn't, just the DC driveshaft. One of the reasons (a Big one) I decided to change my plans, and go for more lift is that I might just decide that its too much work for a TT. I didn't want to lift twice, so, I went OME vs H&R out of the gate.


I wonder if there would be any market for and SYE and a "normal" yoke...Or a flange and adapt a rubicon style driveshaft. You'd get a longer DS, but would not have to rotate the axle...creating a whole host of other issues.

 

[JMT]

Shoot....I didn't even realize Currie MADE a trackbar for low lift applications. Its Clever! Spendy, but clever.

Regarding the different brackets for the rear end, when you start rotating your axle...all KINDS of geometry goes out the window. Those brackets are made to get the movement of the trackbar motion back into the "vertical" plane.

As I Think about my tummy tuck, I'm starting to believe that to REALLY do it right, I need to go all MrBlaine. You know, move the spring perches, outboard the shocks, weld in a new TB bracket. There is a LOT to consider. Even an SYE and DC Driveshaft requires you to rotate the axle. Well, the SYE by itself doesn't, just the DC driveshaft. One of the reasons (a Big one) I decided to change my plans, and go for more lift is that I might just decide that its too much work for a TT. I didn't want to lift twice, so, I went OME vs H&R out of the gate.


I wonder if there would be any market for and SYE and a "normal" yoke...Or a flange and adapt a rubicon style driveshaft. You'd get a longer DS, but would not have to rotate the axle...creating a whole host of other issues.

Good questions. I wish I understood all you were saying. I hope some others chime in. I thought all I'd need is my SS SYE, DC and double adjustable uppers so I could rotate my pinion to face directly at my yoke. That solves the main angle problem we're dealing with, right? Just tuck that momma. It would be so cool. Just look at all the pics on here of TJ's and that awful skid plate hanging down. I hate'em as much as @bobthetj03 hates body lifts! And that's a lot of hate!