Preparation questions about 2005 Rubicon I'm taking delivery of Thursday

Henchman59

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Hello, new member, and I pick up a 2005 TJ Rubicon, 4L, 6-spd, clean and well maintained on Thursday. Original Picture. 194K (mileage doesn't scare me as this is clean, not used for what it could have been. I had the dealer add (5) new BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 in 265/75-16 to start at their cost with alignment.

I'll have new picture then. I am looking to put a 2.5" lift into it, and I'm looking at just springs/shocks or possibly a more complete kit with with sway bars, drop for transfer case, brake line etc,

As I do my research there is a lot to choose from, and I'd appreciate some input as I build this jeep from folks that know, as that is not me at the moment.

Thanks B!

2005-jeep-wrangler-rubicon-4wd-2dr-suv (2).jpg
 
It sure shines.

When the budget allows, doing a lift as complete as possible is the way to do it.

It pays off with good road manners and a good ride.

The best TJ information in one place is here.

At that age and mileage you need to consider replacing all fluids and basically just going over it front to back.

All the best
Andy
 
It sure shines.

When the budget allows, doing a lift as complete as possible is the way to do it.

It pays off with good road manners and a good ride.

The best TJ information in one place is here.

At that age and mileage you need to consider replacing all fluids and basically just going over it front to back.

All the best
Andy

Thank you. Agreed. I went through it pretty good. All fluids in the engine bay are good. No leaks underneath. I will do trans/diff fluids. 47 service records via Carfax, they stayed on top of it. Drives mint, quiet, clutch/brakes all in great shape. 1 owner, 1 small accident. Frame is really good. Looks like it was coated when they first got it, held up good, not perfect but solid. Tires were not my cup of tea.
 
Hello, new member, and I pick up a 2005 TJ Rubicon, 4L, 6-spd, clean and well maintained on Thursday. Original Picture. 194K (mileage doesn't scare me as this is clean, not used for what it could have been. I had the dealer add (5) new BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 in 265/75-16 to start at their cost with alignment.

I'll have new picture then. I am looking to put a 2.5" lift into it, and I'm looking at just springs/shocks or possibly a more complete kit with with sway bars, drop for transfer case, brake line etc,

As I do my research there is a lot to choose from, and I'd appreciate some input as I build this jeep from folks that know, as that is not me at the moment.

Thanks B!

View attachment 543011

Congrats on your new TJR! Nice looking rig. There is a good recipe for a 2.5” lifted TJ here. A 32” tire would work really nice with that recipe.
 
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I hope the frame is as clean as the paint. A rust free Jeep in MA is as rare as..............................
p.s. Someone dropped their covid mask.

View attachment 543143

True. It’s from NH still NE. I went through it and it seemed good. High mileage and well maintained can make it 300K. I chose the TJ for its size and drive train.
 
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I hope the frame is as clean as the paint. A rust free Jeep in MA is as rare as..............................
p.s. Someone dropped their covid mask.

View attachment 543143

It is, I was quite surprised, high miles, well maintained with 1 owner. Drove really well. I’ve looked at a bunch. I had a budget for a jeep and work I wanted to do. I wanted a jeep that hadn’t been modified yet. This fit. Time to play with it. Just so many options.
 
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True. It’s from NH still NE. I went through it and it seemed good. High mileage and well maintained can make it 300K. I chose the TJ for its size and drive train.

what we're all referring to is the inside of the frame; many TJ frames look 'good' from the outside and that's where most people's inquiries end. I don't know if you're in that category or the other category, those that probe the interior with fingers and endoscopic cameras. Often times a frame may look good in photos and from a distance, but in person with an index finger in one of the entry points reveals a pile of rust flakes that used to be the frame. As said above, high mileage rust belt TJs with good frames are the exception, very far from the rule. So the question remains, did you probe inside the rails. Also, snap some photos of the frame so we can take a gander, not that it'll be all that helpful at this point, more of a morbid curiosity really 😜 , preferably photos of the areas around the control arm mounts and the transfer case skid.
 
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I have been researching. I want to do it in my driveway. 2.5” lift is my preference based on pictures as I like the look. I won’t be doing anything extreme. Based on the guide.

2.5" Lift

Required:
Shocks, cprings, bumpstops, adjustable track bars, a SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) , rear upper and lower adjustable control arms, and a DC driveshaft. Or you can do a transfer case drop and skip the SYE, adjustable control arms, and DC driveshaft.
Tire Size Recommendation: 31" or 32" (33" will ideally need a 1" body lift to give you a bit more room in the fenders)

I am using 32” tires, and would rather do the simpler option if it gives the same results for day-day with some off-road. Thoughts on what folks have done. I still want the best results so even though I want simpler, if it’s not as good or stable I would do the extra work.
 
what we're all referring to is the inside of the frame; many TJ frames look 'good' from the outside and that's where most people's inquiries end. I don't know if you're in that category or the other category, those that probe the interior with fingers and endoscopic cameras. Often times a frame may look good in photos and from a distance, but in person with an index finger in one of the entry points reveals a pile of rust flakes that used to be the frame. As said above, high mileage rust belt TJs with good frames are the exception, very far from the rule. So the question remains, did you probe inside the rails. Also, snap some photos of the frame so we can take a gander, not that it'll be all that helpful at this point, more of a morbid curiosity really 😜 , preferably photos of the areas around the control arm mounts and the transfer case skid.

I did, give me a few, I gotta head out and I’ll post all the pics I took. Tried to do my due diligence as I understand what you’re saying no doubt.
 
I have been researching. I want to do it in my driveway. 2.5” lift is my preference based on pictures as I like the look. I won’t be doing anything extreme. Based on the guide.

2.5" Lift

Required:
Shocks, cprings, bumpstops, adjustable track bars, a SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) , rear upper and lower adjustable control arms, and a DC driveshaft. Or you can do a transfer case drop and skip the SYE, adjustable control arms, and DC driveshaft.
Tire Size Recommendation: 31" or 32" (33" will ideally need a 1" body lift to give you a bit more room in the fenders)

I am using 32” tires, and would rather do the simpler option if it gives the same results for day-day with some off-road. Thoughts on what folks have done. I still want the best results so even though I want simpler, if it’s not as good or stable I would do the extra work.

Well, you’re gonna need more than 2 1/2” of lift to fit the tonz and fodeez under there…

😉

Welcome to the forum.
 
what we're all referring to is the inside of the frame; many TJ frames look 'good' from the outside and that's where most people's inquiries end. I don't know if you're in that category or the other category, those that probe the interior with fingers and endoscopic cameras. Often times a frame may look good in photos and from a distance, but in person with an index finger in one of the entry points reveals a pile of rust flakes that used to be the frame. As said above, high mileage rust belt TJs with good frames are the exception, very far from the rule. So the question remains, did you probe inside the rails. Also, snap some photos of the frame so we can take a gander, not that it'll be all that helpful at this point, more of a morbid curiosity really 😜 , preferably photos of the areas around the control arm mounts and the transfer case skid.

Here are the pics I took. I was poking around and given what I had seen, I thought this was pretty good. Price was decent, with new tires $8400. I had a $13K budget to play with to buy, so this seemed like a good deal for 2005 Rubicon, clean, 4L with 6-spd was ideal. I retired and sold my 69 Z28 where I dropped in a 383 Stoker, 6-spd, 4:10 9" ford. It was just look'n pretty. I wanted to engage differently as I like to hike, bike and thought... why not do a Jeep. I built the Camaro, so I have tools and skills (I think), but know enough to seek alpha to limit making mistakes.

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Welcome! Cool find.

A few things stand out to me in these pictures.

The drag link and track bar look quite wet near the frame side. This could just be extra grease but it also could be a power steering leak near where the input shaft enters the steering gearbox.

It looks like you are missing bolts on the transfer case skid plate / center crossmember, although the picture is not very clear. You should have three into each frame rail. Speaking of the transfer case skid plate, a transfer case drop defeats the purpose of a lift.
 
it looks as expected. My concerns are these: The surface looks wavy, for lack of a better term, and usually the sign of rust. There appears to be quite a bit of rust between the tc skid and the lower frame rail, very common, but something you should look very closely at by dropping that skid. There is quite a bit of rust on all other components underneath so the inside of those rails are likely also rusted. Most concerning is this, what appears to be rust flake, peaking out above the entry point above the tc skid, also very common for a TJ of this vintage and geographical location. It could also be a leaf, who knows, but I'd get inside that frame asap and see what's going on in there & if something is going on commence remedial measures immediately:

Ruby.jpg
 
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Welcome! Cool find.

A few things stand out to me in these pictures.

The drag link and track bar look quite wet near the frame side. This could just be extra grease but it also could be a power steering leak near where the input shaft enters the steering gearbox.

It looks like you are missing bolts on the transfer case skid plate / center crossmember, although the picture is not very clear. You should have three into each frame rail. Speaking of the transfer case skid plate, a transfer case drop defeats the purpose of a lift.

Thank you. It's gonna be a learning curve as I was looking at things I know, like rust, leaks, damage and I saw the grease, but didn't get deep enough under it to truly see. I didn't put it on a lift. I appreciate the feedback. I may just take on the body lift (does this impact things like fuel, brakes, steering) to get by for now as since these pics, we changed the tires to 265/75-16 and did an alignment. Clean up what I see, learn more about the vehicle, do audio upgrade, pull doors and put tubes on, and find a decent soft-top as this only has the hardtop. Open to thoughts here as well as it does rain from time to time ;-)
 
it looks as expected. My concerns are these: The surface looks wavy, for lack of a better term, and usually the sign of rust. There appears to be quite a bit of rust between the tc skid and the lower frame rail, very common, but something you should look very closely at by dropping that skid. There is quite a bit of rust on all other components underneath so the inside of those rails are likely also rusted. Most concerning is this, what appears to be rust flake, peaking out above the entry point above the tc skid, also very common for a TJ of this vintage and geographical location. It could also be a leaf, who knows, but I'd get inside that frame asap and see what's going on in there & if something is going on commence remedial measures immediately:

View attachment 543199

Ok, thank you. When I get it home and up I'll get deeper into it. I was poking and tapping and it seemed solid, but I wasn't under it for too long as I was rolling under it to see what it was like.
 
I hope the frame is as clean as the paint. A rust free Jeep in MA is as rare as..............................
p.s. Someone dropped their covid mask.

View attachment 543143

Hahaha, I didn't see the mask as this is their website picture. I have a few others as well. Let's hope the mask isn't an indication of what's underneath what I can't see ;-)
 
I hate to bust your bubble but that frame has been doctored up ! look at the 3rd pic and zoom in just aft of the lower control arm mount and you can see where the coating has flaked off and see the rust . I'm pretty sure they coated the frame to cover up all the rust. also why does the top of the jeep/ paint look so good and the under side look so dirty ?