PRNDL's Green One

[PRNDL]

I’m not sure how I did it, but after removing the transfer case, installing a SYE and then putting it all back together my rear exhaust hangers are back like they were before I started any of that. I did have to lower the rear of the transmission/transfer case really low to get the top two bolts loose. Maybe that did something to it.


Glad the mount worked out good for you.

I appreciate you documenting your process!

Not sure exactly where mine is bound up. You and I are running a lot of the same stuff (savvy arms/BL, JKS MML, UCF extra clearance skid, factory exhaust), though yours is an LJ - maybe that has something to do with it?

 

[red02tj]

After the kicker speaker upgrade, it was obvious that a separate amplifier was needed. A regular recommendation on the forum is the Soundstream Picasso Nano 640D that I believe has recently been discontinued. I found a used unit with all the attachment cables on Ebay and ordered. 5 channels, small footprint and plenty of power.

The next obstacle was my 10+ year old head unit. It had only 2 pairs of pre-amp RCA outs; one for the front speakers and another set that could be set to rear or the sub. There may be other solutions, but I opted to replace the unit with another forum recommendation: the Kenwood KMM-X705 with 3 pairs of pre-outs at 5v.

The Kenwood install was easier expected. Crutchfield supplied all of the required parts. I had it done in about an hour. No real change in sound quality running from the built in amp vs the old Pioneer.
View attachment 409833

The amp install was much more exciting. There are plenty of good examples on the forum (here and here are just two) for mounting the amp in the unused space under the steering column. The forum research and pre-planning made this install about as simple as it could be. I spread it out over a few evenings and had it ready to go for the weekend.
View attachment 409834

I've only done some basic tuning and I am blown away. The sound is clean, the tweeters up front are fantastic, the $25 Goldwood sub sounds great and I can hear everything cruising with the top down. Special thanks to @NashvilleTJ for his write up on the Soundstream amp gain knobs - saved me a ton of time. A big thanks to @skrelnik for his Jeep audio expertise that he so regularly shares on this forum.

There you go shaming me into doing more work. Guess I should get my amp out of the glovebox.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

There you go shaming me into doing more work. Guess I should get my amp out of the glovebox.

View attachment 409851

I agree, Red. Pull that amp out of the glove box - and stick a welder in there!

 

[MountaineerTom]

I appreciate you documenting your process!

Not sure exactly where mine is bound up. You and I are running a lot of the same stuff (savvy arms/BL, JKS MML, UCF extra clearance skid, factory exhaust), though yours is an LJ - maybe that has something to do with it?

That could be the difference.

 

[Wildman]

I agree, Red. Pull that amp out of the glove box - and stick a welder in there!

Most definitely.

 

[sourbluff]

Looks

After the kicker speaker upgrade, it was obvious that a separate amplifier was needed. A regular recommendation on the forum is the Soundstream Picasso Nano 640D that I believe has recently been discontinued. I found a used unit with all the attachment cables on Ebay and ordered. 5 channels, small footprint and plenty of power.

The next obstacle was my 10+ year old head unit. It had only 2 pairs of pre-amp RCA outs; one for the front speakers and another set that could be set to rear or the sub. There may be other solutions, but I opted to replace the unit with another forum recommendation: the Kenwood KMM-X705 with 3 pairs of pre-outs at 5v.

The Kenwood install was easier expected. Crutchfield supplied all of the required parts. I had it done in about an hour. No real change in sound quality running from the built in amp vs the old Pioneer.
View attachment 409833

The amp install was much more exciting. There are plenty of good examples on the forum (here and here are just two) for mounting the amp in the unused space under the steering column. The forum research and pre-planning made this install about as simple as it could be. I spread it out over a few evenings and had it ready to go for the weekend.
View attachment 409834

I've only done some basic tuning and I am blown away. The sound is clean, the tweeters up front are fantastic, the $25 Goldwood sub sounds great and I can hear everything cruising with the top down. Special thanks to @NashvilleTJ for his write up on the Soundstream amp gain knobs - saved me a ton of time. A big thanks to @skrelnik for his Jeep audio expertise that he so regularly shares on this forum.

Looks great!

 

[PRNDL]

Did Jeep things today. Took My father-in-law out to the OHV part for the maiden voyage in his stock JL today. It was a great day.

 

[PRNDL]

Picked up an M8000 locally. Needs some work, but I'm excited about it.

 

[Tob]

Catch up post from the past few months.

2022-10-07 - installed a new air filter: Wix 46081
2022-11-12 - Installed new wipers: Bosch Microedge 40713

Somewhere along the way, I installed a set of Skyjacker Black MAX rear shocks (B8528) hoping to relieve stiff ride characteristics of the Rancho 5000x. They also run shaft down which allowed me to remove the Currie shock extension brackets. These have been a huge improvement in ride quality. I haven't noticed any ill effects from running different shocks front (still Rancho) and rear. At some point, I might get a set of Black MAX for the front, but for now, I'm happy with the improved ride.

I was given a factory trunk by a local forum member. My Jeep did not have the nutserts installed in the tub to mount the trunk. I followed a post from @Jamison C as a guide to set the nutserts and mount the trunk. Very nice addition. I'll probably look to add threaded knobs at some point in the future.

View attachment 403632

View attachment 403633

Just saw your Ranchos post in the for sale section. How are you liking the Black Maxes so far? And how light is your rear end?

 

[PRNDL]

Just saw your Ranchos post in the for sale section. How are you liking the Black Maxes so far? And how light is your rear end?

The BMs were a big improvement for me. I posted my thoughts over here. I run relatively light: rarely have passengers, soft top, factory bumper. I'm probably going to get a front set of BMs this summer.

 

[Irun]

Picked up an M8000 locally. Needs some work, but I'm excited about it.
View attachment 413133

Make sure to touch base with @Blackjack. He will help ypu with all things Warn related and is an invaluable resource when bringing an old winch back to life!

 

[PRNDL]

Make sure to touch base with @Blackjack. He will help ypu with all things Warn related and is an invaluable resource when bringing an old winch back to life!

I'm all over it.

I followed your XD restoration as well. Very helpful! You've already saved me from buying the $80 Warn ground lead advertising for Spartan Power!

 

[Blackjack]

I'm all over it.

I followed your XD restoration as well. Very helpful! You've already saved me from buying the $80 Warn ground lead advertising for Spartan Power!

If you guys are looking for custom power cables I build those to order as well.

 

[PRNDL]

Rolled around under the jeep yesterday after greasing the rear UCA JJs. A couple of things:

• power steering leak - fluid level is ok, steering isn't whining, but the ac compressor is pretty soaked. This could be as simple as one of the hose clamps on the reservoir.
• It looks like one of my Black Max shocks is leaking. Not completely unexpected based on the experience of others here. I'll contact skyjacker and see what they say.

 

[red02tj]

This could be as simple as one of the hose clamps on the reservoir.

If it’s not the clamps, try the Lucas PS leak stop. If worked for mine and it’s the only leak stop I think people actually like and have work.

 

[PRNDL]

If it’s not the clamps, try the Lucas PS leak stop. If worked for mine and it’s the only leak stop I think people actually like and have work.

Sounds good. I'll give it a better inspection this weekend. There's a chance the steering pump isn't factory. Ask me how I know.

 

[PRNDL]

Lots of progress over the last week.

I made my own quick disconnect pins last year to use with the Zone Offroad sway extension links. The pins worked great, but because the links did not have a joint, getting them off the pins to disconnect was a massive pain. In my last trip out to Bridgeport, I lost a bushing sleeve for one of the links while disconnected. Instead of replacing the sleeve, I replaced the entire disconnect system with the complete kit from Zone. These links have a joint on the bar end to allow them to pivot making it easier to remove. I removed the DIY pins in favor of the set in the kit.

The leaky shock has been replaced. Summit made getting a replacement really easy. Warranty claim submitted on Friday and the new shock was at my door the next day. It helps that there's a local Summit hub.

Finally got around to greasing the JJs on the rear upper CAs. This has to be the worst set to work on. The passenger side bolt is blocked by the muffler. I had to drop the skid/transmission for it to clear. I reassembled with the nut side inboard and the bolt cleared the muffler by about a quarter inch. The drivers side was less frustrating, but I did have to fight a bolt vs a spring on the axle end. Before the next round of greasing, I will be buying the 2" JJ tool from Rock Jock. I have the 2.5" size and its just so much quicker to have the jig perfectly set up.

At this point, I've greased all 8 control arms. Next will be the track bars... and then we start on the arms again.

 

[PRNDL]

Looks like my PS leak was a loose hose clamp off the reservoir. Tightened it last week and its been dry since.

The passenger rear speaker has started clipping, no other speakers having issues. Speaker is in good shape, fade/balance is not out of whack. i'll have to take a look at the amp side connections. Always something.

I've also made progress on the winch. The drum is painted and its been reassembled with fresh grease. I ordered the smittybilt raised winch plate as well. Only remaining pieces are all the things from WRG: ST fairlead, Safety Thimble, license plate mount and winch rope. Not in a hurry, I'll wait until I can order them all at once with a set of the new green color soft shackles

Since I flipped the passenger rear upper control arm frame side bolt, I'm hearing an odd rubbing sound occasionally. I know that bolt has found the muffler. What I haven't found is the time or the energy to drop the skid and flip it back.

 

[PRNDL]

PS hose is still dry calling that one good for now.

The rear passenger speaker wires had come loose at the amp. It wasn't clipping, it was popping when it would get signal. All tightened up.

Had a weird electrical issue yesterday. It wouldn't crank in the garage, appeared as if the battery was dead. I assumed I had left something on after messing with the speakers. A quick jump with my Noco and I was off and running. Came back later that night and same thing. Started running through the usual tests with a multi-meter on the battery:

OFF: 12.45v
Engine off, key in the ON/RUN position: 9.15v
Engine running: 13.75v

Electrical gremlins... I hate this stuff. Voltage drop just turning the key to ON even with the radio/amp and blower motor off. I assumed I had something wired up to switched ignition power causing the issue. Looks like its not the alternator or the battery though. Even with the engine running, it didn't sound right. It was idling low, ~520rpm, and surging periodically. Lucky for me, before diving into any of the wiring itself, I attempted the simplest solution first, cleaning the battery terminals.

Fixed everything. No voltage drop in the ON position, starts normally/easily and idles at the usual ~650rpm. Thanks to Mr. Bransford for consistently recommending starting with the battery terminals when dealing with electrical stuffs.

 

[Jamison C]

PS hose is still dry calling that one good for now.

The rear passenger speaker wires had come loose at the amp. It wasn't clipping, it was popping when it would get signal. All tightened up.

Had a weird electrical issue yesterday. It wouldn't crank in the garage, appeared as if the battery was dead. I assumed I had left something on after messing with the speakers. A quick jump with my Noco and I was off and running. Came back later that night and same thing. Started running through the usual tests with a multi-meter on the battery:

OFF: 12.45v
Engine off, key in the ON/RUN position: 9.15v
Engine running: 13.75v

Electrical gremlins... I hate this stuff. Voltage drop just turning the key to ON even with the radio/amp and blower motor off. I assumed I had something wired up to switched ignition power causing the issue. Looks like its not the alternator or the battery though. Even with the engine running, it didn't sound right. It was idling low, ~520rpm, and surging periodically. Lucky for me, before diving into any of the wiring itself, I attempted the simplest solution first, cleaning the battery terminals.

Fixed everything. No voltage drop in the ON position, starts normally/easily and idles at the usual ~650rpm. Thanks to Mr. Bransford for consistently recommending starting with the battery terminals when dealing with electrical stuffs.

Check the ground on the block by the dipstick. I was having a no start issue because it was loose. Sounds like you got it figured out but it’s always worth a check.