Problem with fitment of the Sound Ordnance B-8PT subwoofer / amp

A few install tips worth repeating...
1. to remove cassette box from console, you need to drill out the rivets.
2. trim bottom of box with a hack saw...or preferably a band saw if you have access to one.
3. Bond a new plastic (painted black on top side) to bottom of cassette box
4. Reinstall cassette box with smalls nut/bolts where rivets used to be.

Speaker:
1. Peel the rubber pads off the oem subwoofer and bond them to the speaker facing the driver's seat (see pics)
2. Use a heavy duty black rubber bungee cord to secure speaker to floor. I don't recall the lenght but the one I bought was a tad long...so I simply put a knot in it to take up some slack. That knot can be seen my second pic taken from the rear looking forward...it's on passenger side.

This speaker is amazing and I rarely can use it more than 50% volume using the external volume dial. I STRONGLY recommend this upgrade!
 
A few install tips worth repeating...
1. to remove cassette box from console, you need to drill out the rivets.
2. trim bottom of box with a hack saw...or preferably a band saw if you have access to one.
3. Bond a new plastic (painted black on top side) to bottom of cassette box
4. Reinstall cassette box with smalls nut/bolts where rivets used to be.

Speaker:
1. Peel the rubber pads off the oem subwoofer and bond them to the speaker facing the driver's seat (see pics)
2. Use a heavy duty black rubber bungee cord to secure speaker to floor. I don't recall the lenght but the one I bought was a tad long...so I simply put a knot in it to take up some slack. That knot can be seen my second pic taken from the rear looking forward...it's on passenger side.

This speaker is amazing and I rarely can use it more than 50% volume using the external volume dial. I STRONGLY recommend this upgrade!
Thanks for all the input.
 
@DaveK22 Thanks so much for the write up. I ran into the same issue. I ended up going a slightly different route. Instead of the bungee cord, I had these extra earthquake furniture straps that I used to keep the sub stable.

Quakehold! 4160 Furniture Strap Kit, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJRYAA/?tag=wranglerorg-20

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Thanks for the idea on how to mount this on its side. I got these little straps from home depot for 99 cents each, but the furniture straps seems nice because the sub can't rotate at all. I added some rug padding under the sub, with some spare carpet under then side with the angle so it sat straighter up. I haven't hooked it up yet, but it I plan on adding some window AC padding on the grill-side of the sub, and some thin padding on the back and front of the sub (the fit is a lot tighter than I was expecting). I had the white storage bin, so I still need to measure, cut, and epoxy that and then bolt it in the console again. I want it to look as stock as possible from inside so I want to mount the storage bin to the bottom of the console lip.

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Just an update on my project... I hooked up the wiring directly from battery with an amp wiring kit so that between the new stereo and this sub, I haven't cut the stock harness anywhere. I hooked up the remote wire to the factory side and to a split off that is the remote to the sub, so if someone ever for any reason did want to do back to the stock setup, the remote wire in the plug to the sub would be live. I mounted the bass remote knob right new to the cup holder, and I have liked it there so far. It's really easy to reach, is out of the way, and I think looks clean. I will copy what someone else did and draw a line with a silver sharpie so I can see the mark on the side of the knob, not just the front. Previous owner had ditched the stock console with the sub for a poorly installed ammo can which I really didn't like, so I checked craigslist for like a year and found a non-sub console for like $30. Since that had the stock storage bin that goes all the way to the floor, I cut it out, measured from bottom of console to top of sub, and shortened it. To make a new bottom I bought a recycle bin from home depot (cheapest flat piece of plastic I could find), and used JB Weld to glue it to the bin. As it was drying I saw online that JB weld doesn't bond to polypropylene (the recycle bin material), so I used gorilla tape and just taped it really well. I then used the seatbelt covers that came with my seat covers and cut out material for the inside so stuff doesn't rattle from the sub. I just installed it and it fits great, and looks pretty good for only spending $5 to do it. I bought simple hardware from home depot to reattach where I drilled out the rivets. The sub sounds great and I'm really happy with it. The only downside is a little bit less storage, but anything that I had in the giant bin would still fit in the smaller spot that I have now.
First two pics are bass remote, second two are the shortened storage bin inside the console.

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I was able to remove the cassette tray and remount it to the topside. No cutting. I put adhesive backed weatherstripping under the until to pad it from the tub and wedged some foam to keep it from moving around. The grill side of the console is unobstructed for sound and venting. I did this in 2019 though so the dimensions of the sub may be different now.
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I need to figure out a better system for mine, it is currently laying on the floor underneath the driver seat. I have a toolbox in the back that I'd like to mount it to, but I think the sound would cause rattling.
 
Just an update on my project... I hooked up the wiring directly from battery with an amp wiring kit so that between the new stereo and this sub, I haven't cut the stock harness anywhere. I hooked up the remote wire to the factory side and to a split off that is the remote to the sub, so if someone ever for any reason did want to do back to the stock setup, the remote wire in the plug to the sub would be live. I mounted the bass remote knob right new to the cup holder, and I have liked it there so far. It's really easy to reach, is out of the way, and I think looks clean. I will copy what someone else did and draw a line with a silver sharpie so I can see the mark on the side of the knob, not just the front. Previous owner had ditched the stock console with the sub for a poorly installed ammo can which I really didn't like, so I checked craigslist for like a year and found a non-sub console for like $30. Since that had the stock storage bin that goes all the way to the floor, I cut it out, measured from bottom of console to top of sub, and shortened it. To make a new bottom I bought a recycle bin from home depot (cheapest flat piece of plastic I could find), and used JB Weld to glue it to the bin. As it was drying I saw online that JB weld doesn't bond to polypropylene (the recycle bin material), so I used gorilla tape and just taped it really well. I then used the seatbelt covers that came with my seat covers and cut out material for the inside so stuff doesn't rattle from the sub. I just installed it and it fits great, and looks pretty good for only spending $5 to do it. I bought simple hardware from home depot to reattach where I drilled out the rivets. The sub sounds great and I'm really happy with it. The only downside is a little bit less storage, but anything that I had in the giant bin would still fit in the smaller spot that I have now.
First two pics are bass remote, second two are the shortened storage bin inside the console.

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I really like this idea since I have the son sun center consol. Do you think not having the holes in the side of the console decreases the amount of bass?
 
I mounted my B-8PTD under the drivers seat. I did have to trim the back inner seat mount about 1/4" to fit the speaker. I'm not sure I'm going to leave it there due to possible water damage.
Which part did you have to trim? This is where I would like to mount my sub and it seems to fit but when the lever under the seat is pulled to move the seat forward that bar just slightly hits the sub
 
I really like this idea since I have the son sun center consol. Do you think not having the holes in the side of the console decreases the amount of bass?
So my console actually had the holes, but was covered on the inside by a factory plastic disc.... So When I took out the bin, I just unscrewed this plastic piece and now it has the slats. I don't know how much of a difference it would make without the holes, but you could cut some with a dremel maybe? Most of the slats are obscured by the side of the seat anyway
 
Which part did you have to trim? This is where I would like to mount my sub and it seems to fit but when the lever under the seat is pulled to move the seat forward that bar just slightly hits the sub

It may be that your 97 has different seats, floor and/or seat tracks. I seem to remember there are differences.

I trimmed the rear of the track for clearance.
 
Just an update on my project... I hooked up the wiring directly from battery with an amp wiring kit so that between the new stereo and this sub, I haven't cut the stock harness anywhere. I hooked up the remote wire to the factory side and to a split off that is the remote to the sub, so if someone ever for any reason did want to do back to the stock setup, the remote wire in the plug to the sub would be live. I mounted the bass remote knob right new to the cup holder, and I have liked it there so far. It's really easy to reach, is out of the way, and I think looks clean. I will copy what someone else did and draw a line with a silver sharpie so I can see the mark on the side of the knob, not just the front. Previous owner had ditched the stock console with the sub for a poorly installed ammo can which I really didn't like, so I checked craigslist for like a year and found a non-sub console for like $30. Since that had the stock storage bin that goes all the way to the floor, I cut it out, measured from bottom of console to top of sub, and shortened it. To make a new bottom I bought a recycle bin from home depot (cheapest flat piece of plastic I could find), and used JB Weld to glue it to the bin. As it was drying I saw online that JB weld doesn't bond to polypropylene (the recycle bin material), so I used gorilla tape and just taped it really well. I then used the seatbelt covers that came with my seat covers and cut out material for the inside so stuff doesn't rattle from the sub. I just installed it and it fits great, and looks pretty good for only spending $5 to do it. I bought simple hardware from home depot to reattach where I drilled out the rivets. The sub sounds great and I'm really happy with it. The only downside is a little bit less storage, but anything that I had in the giant bin would still fit in the smaller spot that I have now.
First two pics are bass remote, second two are the shortened storage bin inside the console.

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I'm trying to wrap my head around how you created the "tray" inside the console. Did you cut the top off the white liner and reuse it and than used the recycle bin plastic for a new bottom, then wrapped in in what looks like black vinyl?
 
Yeah that’s right... I mounted the sub, installed the console (with liner removed), measured from bottom on console lip to top of sub (to know the depth my new liner would be). Then I measured that distance out on my white large console liner and cut the a transverse cut at the measured spots. So I used the top portion and used another random plastic piece to create a “new bottom” for my liner. I used jbweld but that doesn’t bond well to the polypropylene in recycle bins hahaha so I just used gorilla tape and it’s crazy solid. Then on the inside I used the seatbelt pad that came with my vinyl iggee seat covers and trimmed it to fit the inside so pens an stuff don’t rattle.