Problems with replacing dropped pitman arm

[MCT]

Gentlemen/women

I bought my TJ 3 months or so ago and it came equipped with possibly a Frankenstein 3.5" lift that includes a drop pitman arm. I had it in the shop addressing a couple other items and asked them to swap in a stock pitman too. Apparently they put it on but discovered that the joint between the drag link and tie bar would then hit my sway bar disconnect. They suggested a less dropped pitman, maybe 1.75" instead of 3" than I have if I remember correctly. I told them to put the old one back on and I'd figure it out. Any ideas? Why would it hit that disconnect? My lower control arms are not adjustable but my uppers are, could that be the issue? I've included a few pics to help. Thanks for any input!

 

[Chris]

Disregard

 

[toximus]

When you raise the TRE on the pitman you raise the entire linkage up slightly which is raising that lower TRE and putting it into your quick release. Try flipping the quick release around and see if that clears it.

For one, that’s not the stock drag link (and possibly tie rod too), and it also looks like those knuckles might not be stock either.

It all looks like stock 97 to me, what am I missing?

 

[Chris]

When you raise the TRE on the pitman you raise the entire linkage up slightly which is raising that lower TRE and putting it into your quick release. Try flipping the quick release around and see if that clears it.



It all looks like stock 97 to me, what am I missing?

You’re right. It’s been too long.

 

[MCT]

When you raise the TRE on the pitman you raise the entire linkage up slightly which is raising that lower TRE and putting it into your quick release. Try flipping the quick release around and see if that clears it.



It all looks like stock 97 to me, what am I missing?

It’s a 06 if that matters. And is your solution of switching sides of the bracket a hack? I’d like to have it work the way it is supposed to and know exactly what is causing it. I am considering going to the Currie correctlync (and entire Currie lift for that matter) but if it’s still going to hit the disconnect that of course would be an issue.

 

[toximus]

It’s a 06 if that matters.

I don't think your knuckles are, but that doesn't change anything, don't worry about that.

And is your solution of switching sides of the bracket a hack?

Your links are aftermarket. You need to figure out how to package your links to work or change them out for something that works.

I am considering going to the Currie correctlync (and entire Currie lift for that matter) but if it’s still going to hit the disconnect that of course would be an issue.

It really depends on those links and how big they are. I can't tell you if they'll work together or not.

 

[05 Blue Unlimited]

Are you certain that's a 3" lift? Anyway that looks like a Rough Country lift, the end links are anyway. As you raise the pitman you also raise the joint of the DL & TB but not by the same amount. That it hits is a mystery, I run the same links with the stock pitman but I am running the ZJ upgrade though. It looks like it should be ok, did the shop actually install the stock arm and see it hitting or did they eyeball it?

 

[Goatman]

Could you post a pic of your pinion to drive shaft? The dif cover looks pretty angled to me in the pics. It could be nothing tho.

 

[MCT]

I was to

Are you certain that's a 3" lift? Anyway that looks like a Rough Country lift, the end links are anyway. As you raise the pitman you also raise the joint of the DL & TB but not by the same amount. That it hits is a mystery, I run the same links with the stock pitman but I am running the ZJ upgrade though. It looks like it should be ok, did the shop actually install the stock arm and see it hitting or did they eyeball it?

I was told it was a 3.5” lift but the front springs are at 16”. The rear springs are harder to measure accurately but the rig definitely sits a bit lower in the back.

They said they put it on and there are a couple of scratches on the pitman arm now so I believe them. I think I’m just going to order a stock pitman arm, the Currie correctlync and maybe some new Teraflex sway bar links and hope for the best. I’ll be sure to post here how it goes.

BTW, anyone know what the correctlync system modified for 9” front ends is? Seems like there is more of a bend at the end of the drag link that might accommodate my sway bar link

 

[MCT]

Could you post a pic of your pinion to drive shaft? The dif cover looks pretty angled to me in the pics. It could be nothing tho.

Daughter drove it to school today so I’ll post that this afternoon. The ujoint is pretty strait from the diff through to the driveshaft. So, yes, angled down a bit.

 

[hdbiker1]

To me it looks like you might have a bent drag link or tie rod since the tie rod looks to run up hill on the passenger side. Or it could just be the angle of the pic.

 

[MCT]

Could you post a pic of your pinion to drive shaft? The dif cover looks pretty angled to me in the pics. It could be nothing tho.

 

[MCT]

Well, I had this pitman issue on the back burner for a while, but I installed a SwayLOC last week and decided to revisit. One of the things I did was hard over the steering wheel to the right and the first picture is that. I thought there is no way the drag link/tie rod joint should be that tight to the sway bar link bracket. After more analysis, I think my drag link is bent rearward at the end link. Any thought would be appreciated.

 

[toximus]

Well, I had this pitman issue on the back burner for a while, but I installed a SwayLOC last week and decided to revisit. One of the things I did was hard over the steering wheel to the right and the first picture is that. I thought there is no way the drag link/tie rod joint should be that tight to the sway bar link bracket. After more analysis, I think my drag link is bent rearward at the end link. Any thought would be appreciated.

View attachment 228169View attachment 228170

How's your caster angle?

 

[MCT]

How's your caster angle?

Never had it measured by a shop but I suspect it’s in the normal range. Drives pretty nice especially after getting the swayloc. Except for some bumpsteer. Do the drag link angles look normal to you?

 

[Goatman]

View attachment 117927

Ok. Looks better in this pic, tho perhaps a degree or two high. The pinion should be a degree or so below the driveshaft. I'm pre- right now, but it appears the pinion is a degree or so above driveshaft angle. Pinion will rotate up under power. But if you aren't having an issue then you are good enough.

 

[toximus]

Ok. Looks better in this pic, tho perhaps a degree or two high. The pinion should be a degree or so below the driveshaft. I'm pre- right now, but it appears the pinion is a degree or so above driveshaft angle. Pinion will rotate up under power. But if you aren't having an issue then you are good enough.

In the front you'd want to focus more on handling and thus: caster > pinion.

 

[toximus]

Never had it measured by a shop but I suspect it’s in the normal range. Drives pretty nice especially after getting the swayloc. Except for some bumpsteer. Do the drag link angles look normal to you?

I can't tell if you have enough caster angle from your pictures. You'd need to drive it and see how it handles.

What you're pictures show is very common when the axle is either too far forward (can be solved by using adjustable control arms and shortening them.) or the axle is rolled too far forward at the top (can be solved by rolling the pinion down giving more caster angle.). It's also possible that your steering is bent.

 

[mrblaine]

It’s a 06 if that matters. And is your solution of switching sides of the bracket a hack? I’d like to have it work the way it is supposed to and know exactly what is causing it. I am considering going to the Currie correctlync (and entire Currie lift for that matter) but if it’s still going to hit the disconnect that of course would be an issue.

Just add some bend to the bend on the draglink.

 

[TurboTJ]

Ok. Looks better in this pic, tho perhaps a degree or two high. The pinion should be a degree or so below the driveshaft. I'm pre- right now, but it appears the pinion is a degree or so above driveshaft angle. Pinion will rotate up under power. But if you aren't having an issue then you are good enough.

You got that backwards. The front pinion will rotate down under power. The rear pinion rotates up.