Did you ever consider a 241 transfer case from a Rubicon? Would that have worked?
I have always found the Rubicon transfer case to crawl at a low enough speed that I never found myself wanting more.
Building a diesel powered RHD TJ Wrangler (Picture Heavy)
- Thread starter RustyAutoholicGuy
- Start date
Did you ever consider a 241 transfer case from a Rubicon? Would that have worked?
I have always found the Rubicon transfer case to crawl at a low enough speed that I never found myself wanting more.
OP
So I just remembered why I went with the doubler. My AW4 is a 21-spline output instead of a 23-spline output. I used the doubler to convert my AW4 21-spline output to a 23-spline output for my NP231. I originally wanted this AW4 for the .705 overdrive versus the normal .75 overdrive, though it's looking like now .75 overdrive might have been a better setup for me.
In a way this weird, if I had gone with a NP241OR, I could have keep my stock transmission and transfer case shifter, along with my interior, and I would have greatly reduced the cost and build time of my setup. Ugh I kind of don't want to think about this right now, NP241OR with a later 23-spline AW4 really might be a better option for me than my current setup . . . well this sucks, I'm going to have go do some number crunching and see which is better . . .
-Grant
Yep, I am thinking I would have just stuck with the stock transmission and put a 241OR in there.
Hell, I wouldn’t even be running an auto. I’d never owned a manual equipped TJ until this new one which has an NSG370. I absolutely love this thing way more than any of my auto equipped TJs.
Well, I guess if you ever want to put your engine 7” back, you know how to do it
OP
Yep, I am thinking I would have just stuck with the stock transmission and put a 241OR in there.
Hell, I wouldn’t even be running an auto. I’d never owned a manual equipped TJ until this new one which has an NSG370. I absolutely love this thing way more than any of my auto equipped TJs.
Well, I guess if you ever want to put your engine 7” back, you know how to do it
I still would have swapped to an AW4, being able to tune the shift points and when it torque converter locks and unlocks is really a game changer. It really does instantly change the TJ. Oddly enough I probably would have still moved the engine forward to have the longest rear driveshaft as possible.
Hindsight is always 20/20 and thinking about my TJ at least it's completely unique and one off, I've never heard of another stock wheelbase TJ with a doubler, well other than the Rubicrawler in the 42RLE.
It's interesting that you like the NSG370, I can't stand mine in my LJR. It's one of the reasons I don't feel bad for selling my LJR
.
I still would have swapped to an AW4, being able to tune the shift points and when it torque converter locks and unlocks is really a game changer. It really does instantly change the TJ. Oddly enough I probably would have still moved the engine forward to have the longest rear driveshaft as possible.
Hindsight is always 20/20 and thinking about my TJ at least it's completely unique and one off, I've never heard of another stock wheelbase TJ with a doubler, well other than the Rubicrawler in the 42RLE.
It's interesting that you like the NSG370, I can't stand mine in my LJR. It's one of the reasons I don't feel bad for selling my LJR
Interesting indeed! I would never in a million years own another automatic equipped TJ after owning this NSG370.
The 42RLE stinks, and I’ve deeply hated the AW4s in the multiple XJs I’ve owned.
Still, if you’re able to make it work, that’s all that matters
OP
Interesting indeed! I would never in a million years own another automatic equipped TJ after owning this NSG370.
The 42RLE stinks, and I’ve deeply hated the AW4s in the multiple XJs I’ve owned.
Still, if you’re able to make it work, that’s all that matters
I think it's custom torque converter I got. I don't know any of the specs, I had bought the torque converter as a NOS custom low stall converter. When I engage torque lockup right now my RPMs drop a solid 300 ~ 400 rpms, it almost feels like I have a 7 speed automatic if that makes sense. 1st, 2nd, 2.5, 3rd, 3.5, 4th, 4.5. I could have 1.5 but there is just no point, it goes from 1st -> 2nd gear with ease.
I have to wonder if the 42rle would be better if you could do custom tuning on the shift points and lock up for it.
My issue with the 42RLE is the same as everyone else's, the overdrive. My issue with the AW4 is the same, as I always recall my XJs doing the same thing as my TJ and "hunting" for gears.
However, since you can control the shift points, maybe you have a way around that, I'm not sure. I guess until I drive it at highway speeds, I won't know. I just know that damn "hunting" that was so common on my TJ and my XJ really drove me nuts, as I'm sure you can relate.
It's a shame Jeep didn't design a better automatic transmission in general.
OP
I haven't had any issues with hunting for gears and I've never driven an AW4 in a Cherokee before so I wouldn't know. Seeing how my AW4 acts, I would have to say the hunting for gears is all software related. All my current issues are purely software, well for the most part, the intercooler is it's own unique situation that I don't feel is related to the transmission.
I can completely change when my transmission shifts in the CompuShift software and it's pretty instant, there is some give on when it shifts, but you can adjust that as well. I really enjoy being able to drive, change a parameter on the side of my road with my phone without restarting my TJ and the transmission will respond instantly to my changes.
@mrblaine can explain to you all about the AW4 and the less than stellar transmission that it is. If I recall correctly, I believe he said that he actually prefers the 42RLE over the AW4.
I know the AW4s tend to run hot, they hunt for gears (at least in the XJs), etc. However, I get why you went with it, because of the ability to adjust your shift points.
My only experience with the AW4 is in the Cherokees I owned over the years, and it was enough to make me not want to own one again.
Of course in regards to the 42RLE, I can't say I'm in love with it either, but being as though I got in the habit of turning the OD off anytime I got in the vehicle, it made me not hate it as much as I used to.
OP
Yeah I heard they ran hot which is why I installed a shift kit that corrected some of those issues, along with being able to tune the transmission and prevent it from hunting for gears I think I should be alright. I really need to play with the lockup stuff more. I need to get someone in my passenger seat so I can more easily tune what my engine and transmission are doing!
Yep, sometimes it’s hard to refine something when you’re focused on driving.
OP
Hey TJers,
Replacing the governor spring on my Kubota diesel swapped TJ Wrangler turned out to be more of a challenge than I was anticipating but well worth the effort!
Here's the video if you want to watch it:
My Kubota V2403's stock governor springs limited me to 2800rpm and it would start defueling even before I hit maximum RPM as well.
I replaced the two governor springs that were connected to my throttle plate with the one spring supplied to me from KubotaSwappers.
Everything about my diesel engine has now changed. The biggest change, aside from the higher RPM limit, is how I had to set the idle. After replacing the governor spring, my engine immediately started idling at 2000rpm.
I adjusted the idle set screw on my throttle plate, and got the idle as low as I could, to around 950 rpm, however when I went to put my transmission in gear, my RPMs drops into the 600s. Before this change, if the engine started at 880 rpm, it would spin 880 rpm when you put it in gear.
Now with the new governor spring I've had to set the free idle to around 1080 rpm so that I'm idling anywhere between 770~880 rpm depending on if the engine is cold or not. I haven't quite figured out why the idle is wide, but it doesn't surge or bounce. Sometimes it's 880, other times it's 770 rpm.
The drivability of the entire Wrangler has improved as well. Having the exact rpm for shifting as well as exact horsepower and torque above 2000 rpm has made a huge difference in not only getting up to speed but holding speed as well!
Sorry for the lack of pictures, it took me two days to get everything done and my Wrangler running again and I just completely forgot to take pictures while I was working on everything.
-Grant
Replacing the governor spring on my Kubota diesel swapped TJ Wrangler turned out to be more of a challenge than I was anticipating but well worth the effort!
Here's the video if you want to watch it:
My Kubota V2403's stock governor springs limited me to 2800rpm and it would start defueling even before I hit maximum RPM as well.
I replaced the two governor springs that were connected to my throttle plate with the one spring supplied to me from KubotaSwappers.
Everything about my diesel engine has now changed. The biggest change, aside from the higher RPM limit, is how I had to set the idle. After replacing the governor spring, my engine immediately started idling at 2000rpm.
I adjusted the idle set screw on my throttle plate, and got the idle as low as I could, to around 950 rpm, however when I went to put my transmission in gear, my RPMs drops into the 600s. Before this change, if the engine started at 880 rpm, it would spin 880 rpm when you put it in gear.
Now with the new governor spring I've had to set the free idle to around 1080 rpm so that I'm idling anywhere between 770~880 rpm depending on if the engine is cold or not. I haven't quite figured out why the idle is wide, but it doesn't surge or bounce. Sometimes it's 880, other times it's 770 rpm.
The drivability of the entire Wrangler has improved as well. Having the exact rpm for shifting as well as exact horsepower and torque above 2000 rpm has made a huge difference in not only getting up to speed but holding speed as well!
Sorry for the lack of pictures, it took me two days to get everything done and my Wrangler running again and I just completely forgot to take pictures while I was working on everything.
-Grant
OP
Hey TJers,
So last weekend I discovered how awesome it was to have a doubler in my Kubota diesel powered TJ Wrangler. I'll admit I installed the Northwest Fab Eco Box doubler on my Wrangler without fully understanding how powerful of tool it would be offroad.
I discovered how great the double was last weekend when I helped my father-in-law build a bridge so we could connect our two properties. There is a small creak that runs between our two properties and it's just too deep and more importantly too muddy for me to be able to cross in my TJ.
While carrying down the woods and supplies to build the bridge, I discovered how I could use my doubler and transfer case to both help me ascend and descend the hills to get to the creak!
So the doubler allows me me to have the following ranges. I have high range of 1:1 and low range of 2.72:1 in the doubler and then all the position of my NP231 transfer case as well which has a 2.72:1 low range as well. This gives me the following ranges:
High Range - 2-High = 2wd 1:1
High Range - 4-High = 4wd 1:1
High Range - 4-Low = 4wd 2.72:1
Low Range - 2-High = 2wd 2.72:1
Low Range - 4-High = 4wd 2.72:1
Low Range - 4-Low = 4wd 7.4:1
My favorite range while I'm on very tight technical terrain is 2wd-Low with my transfer case is 2-High and my doubler in Low Range. This allows me to crawl through trails while not having to worry about binding my front axle with quick lock to lock steering.
Also if you notice I have two ways of getting to 4-Low now. They both operate the same way and feel the same as well, though I find I prefer going to 4-High on my transfer case and just leaving the doubler in Low Range. This is great when I need to quickly change my steering and I want a tighter turning radius.
However for going down any obstacle Low Range on the doubler and 4-Low on my transfer case is my favorite. I have engine braking in first gear on my AW4 automatic, so I'm able to crawl down steep grades using the drivetrain to slow my TJ instead of relying on the brakes and possibly loosing steering input on slick/muddy surfaces!
I'll admit I'm keeping my eye out for a Rubicon case. It would give me even more ranges and ratios to play with!
Let me know what you think!
Thanks
Grant
Here's the video if you want to watch it:
So last weekend I discovered how awesome it was to have a doubler in my Kubota diesel powered TJ Wrangler. I'll admit I installed the Northwest Fab Eco Box doubler on my Wrangler without fully understanding how powerful of tool it would be offroad.
I discovered how great the double was last weekend when I helped my father-in-law build a bridge so we could connect our two properties. There is a small creak that runs between our two properties and it's just too deep and more importantly too muddy for me to be able to cross in my TJ.
While carrying down the woods and supplies to build the bridge, I discovered how I could use my doubler and transfer case to both help me ascend and descend the hills to get to the creak!
So the doubler allows me me to have the following ranges. I have high range of 1:1 and low range of 2.72:1 in the doubler and then all the position of my NP231 transfer case as well which has a 2.72:1 low range as well. This gives me the following ranges:
High Range - 2-High = 2wd 1:1
High Range - 4-High = 4wd 1:1
High Range - 4-Low = 4wd 2.72:1
Low Range - 2-High = 2wd 2.72:1
Low Range - 4-High = 4wd 2.72:1
Low Range - 4-Low = 4wd 7.4:1
My favorite range while I'm on very tight technical terrain is 2wd-Low with my transfer case is 2-High and my doubler in Low Range. This allows me to crawl through trails while not having to worry about binding my front axle with quick lock to lock steering.
Also if you notice I have two ways of getting to 4-Low now. They both operate the same way and feel the same as well, though I find I prefer going to 4-High on my transfer case and just leaving the doubler in Low Range. This is great when I need to quickly change my steering and I want a tighter turning radius.
However for going down any obstacle Low Range on the doubler and 4-Low on my transfer case is my favorite. I have engine braking in first gear on my AW4 automatic, so I'm able to crawl down steep grades using the drivetrain to slow my TJ instead of relying on the brakes and possibly loosing steering input on slick/muddy surfaces!
I'll admit I'm keeping my eye out for a Rubicon case. It would give me even more ranges and ratios to play with!
Let me know what you think!
Thanks
Grant
Here's the video if you want to watch it:
OP
Hey TJers,
SO I'm in the middle of a turbo upgrade right with no end in sight.
Decided to upgrade the turbo because I was having an issue with my EGTs just climbing no stop once I started going over about 50mph unless I was going downhill not using boost. I could have tried an intercooler but decided to go ahead and upgrade to a turbo that I've had for this project anyway.
Here you can see the size of the new Borg Warner K03 turbo vs the stock turbo that came on the V2403:
Take note of the exhaust outlet. The new turbo has an opening of 2.5" inch diameter, where the stock turbo has a housing that bolts to it where the outlet has a 1.5" inch diameter. The current theory is there is so much restriction on the stock turbo that the diesel engine is having to "force" the exhaust out which is causing the massive build of heat.
Also I ran into problems with the adapter I had got from KubotaSwappers. His adapter comes with a straight piece of Schedule 40 pipe which was hitting my valve cover, so I had to get a 45° piece of Schedule 40 pipe to make the K03 turbo fit on my motor.
Been working on this turbo upgrade for 5 days now and I'm no where close to done either. I need to redo the exhaust down pipe, running the oil feed and drain lines which are going to be one off custom now and I'm waiting on some more 4-ply silicone boost hoses to come to connect the turbo to my intake manifold.
I knew this project was going to be difficult but I had hoped I would be further along than I currently am. At this point with my old setup top speed was around 45mph if I didn't want to watch my EGTs none stop.
I'm not giving up yet on Moab next year but also at this point I've yet to hit a trail that wasn't on my property either.
-Grant
SO I'm in the middle of a turbo upgrade right with no end in sight.
Decided to upgrade the turbo because I was having an issue with my EGTs just climbing no stop once I started going over about 50mph unless I was going downhill not using boost. I could have tried an intercooler but decided to go ahead and upgrade to a turbo that I've had for this project anyway.
Here you can see the size of the new Borg Warner K03 turbo vs the stock turbo that came on the V2403:
Take note of the exhaust outlet. The new turbo has an opening of 2.5" inch diameter, where the stock turbo has a housing that bolts to it where the outlet has a 1.5" inch diameter. The current theory is there is so much restriction on the stock turbo that the diesel engine is having to "force" the exhaust out which is causing the massive build of heat.
Also I ran into problems with the adapter I had got from KubotaSwappers. His adapter comes with a straight piece of Schedule 40 pipe which was hitting my valve cover, so I had to get a 45° piece of Schedule 40 pipe to make the K03 turbo fit on my motor.
Been working on this turbo upgrade for 5 days now and I'm no where close to done either. I need to redo the exhaust down pipe, running the oil feed and drain lines which are going to be one off custom now and I'm waiting on some more 4-ply silicone boost hoses to come to connect the turbo to my intake manifold.
I knew this project was going to be difficult but I had hoped I would be further along than I currently am. At this point with my old setup top speed was around 45mph if I didn't want to watch my EGTs none stop.
I'm not giving up yet on Moab next year but also at this point I've yet to hit a trail that wasn't on my property either.
-Grant
OP
Well I got my butt in gear tonight and tackled the exhaust. Took me longer than I would have liked, properly a solid 4 hours but I was triple checking everything so I would only have to weld, poorly, once.
Overall I'm much happier with this down pipe setup. Before the pipe was REALLY close to the framerail but it never seemed to touch, though I was concerned about what the heat would do. Now I can fit my hands between the framerails and the tub of my Wrangler without any issues.
Now I just need to tackle making the oil feed and return lines and then I'm just waiting on some 4-ply silicone hose and couplers to get here so I can connect the compressor housing to my intake manifold.
Hopefully I'll know by the end of the week if I've solved my EGT problems from having a restriction from a small turbo and exhaust housing.
Let me know what you think!
Thanks
Grant
Overall I'm much happier with this down pipe setup. Before the pipe was REALLY close to the framerail but it never seemed to touch, though I was concerned about what the heat would do. Now I can fit my hands between the framerails and the tub of my Wrangler without any issues.
Now I just need to tackle making the oil feed and return lines and then I'm just waiting on some 4-ply silicone hose and couplers to get here so I can connect the compressor housing to my intake manifold.
Hopefully I'll know by the end of the week if I've solved my EGT problems from having a restriction from a small turbo and exhaust housing.
Let me know what you think!
Thanks
Grant
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Yes it would be!! After wheelimg with an auto I would never go back to a manual.
OP
I had a 42rle in my TJ before I diesel swapped it and I really liked it! I just could not find ANYONE that could make an aftermarket TCU for it. It's why I went with an AW4 automatic instead. I do wonder if we got like 50 people together if CompuShift or USShift would make a TCU for it.
OP
Hey TJers,
Work continues on upgrading my Kubota powered TJ Wrangler to a Borg Warner K03 turbo. If anything this has been a great learning experience for me. While the turbo is installed and working, it's become obvious just how much I need an intercooler to get more power out of my diesel.
So a couple of things I learned while doing all of this and understand that this was the first turbo upgrade I have ever done so this might be common knowledge to some but not to me!
The first thing I learned was that I could remove the wastegate from the compressor housing and replace that bracket with washer to hold the compressor housing to the center section. I honestly didn't know I could do that.
The second thing I learned doing this was the less restrictive your boost/charge piping is in terms of bends and turns, the lower your EGTs. I didn't talk about it much in my video but I did see a slight reduction in EGTs.
My initial setup for the charge piping had this radical 180° charge pipe going to 45° bends. This worked but when I removed the wastegate so that I could rotate the compressor housing to remove the 180° silicone charge pipe, not only did it help with my EGTs, it created a much simpler setup for the remaining charge/boost hosing as well.
So now I'm working on an intercooler setup. I've decided to go with a water to air setup because I'm concerned about what my EGTs will be while wheeling at slow speeds. Space is becoming a premium in my engine bay, having moved the Kubota V2403 diesel engine forward to make room for my doubler is now kind of coming back to haunt me a little bit.
If I'm lucky all the parts for the water to air intercooler setup will be here tomorrow and I might be able to get everything installed this weekend!
Thank you so much for checking out the thread and let me know what you think!
As always here's the video if you want to watch it:
-Grant
Work continues on upgrading my Kubota powered TJ Wrangler to a Borg Warner K03 turbo. If anything this has been a great learning experience for me. While the turbo is installed and working, it's become obvious just how much I need an intercooler to get more power out of my diesel.
So a couple of things I learned while doing all of this and understand that this was the first turbo upgrade I have ever done so this might be common knowledge to some but not to me!
The first thing I learned was that I could remove the wastegate from the compressor housing and replace that bracket with washer to hold the compressor housing to the center section. I honestly didn't know I could do that.
The second thing I learned doing this was the less restrictive your boost/charge piping is in terms of bends and turns, the lower your EGTs. I didn't talk about it much in my video but I did see a slight reduction in EGTs.
My initial setup for the charge piping had this radical 180° charge pipe going to 45° bends. This worked but when I removed the wastegate so that I could rotate the compressor housing to remove the 180° silicone charge pipe, not only did it help with my EGTs, it created a much simpler setup for the remaining charge/boost hosing as well.
So now I'm working on an intercooler setup. I've decided to go with a water to air setup because I'm concerned about what my EGTs will be while wheeling at slow speeds. Space is becoming a premium in my engine bay, having moved the Kubota V2403 diesel engine forward to make room for my doubler is now kind of coming back to haunt me a little bit.
If I'm lucky all the parts for the water to air intercooler setup will be here tomorrow and I might be able to get everything installed this weekend!
Thank you so much for checking out the thread and let me know what you think!
As always here's the video if you want to watch it:
-Grant
OP
Hey TJers,
Started the process of preparing for a water to air intercooler setup on my Kubota diesel powered TJ Wrangler. Shipping is taking usually longer than normal so I started out by swapping the intake manifold on my Kubota V2403.
After getting my Borg Warner K03 turbo installed, I quickly realized that I needed to cool the incoming charged air from the turbo to help regulate/reduce my EGTs while both accelerating and holding speed.
Moving my Kubota engine forward for my Eco Box Doubler reduced the number of options I have for intercooler setups, especially if I want to have AC which I plan on installing at some point on my TJ Wrangler.
I'll be utilizing two 4x6 barrel style water-to-air intercoolers to cool down the charged air from the turbo. It's possible that one 4x6 intercooler might have worked but I'm tired of fighting heat issues on this swap.
Yes I will be loosing some overall boost pressure from the two intercoolers and will more than likely have a tiny bit of lag for all the piping that I will have with this setup. To me that was a trade off for not having to be concerned about heat soak and EGTs at low speed while wheeling and crawling was worth it.
Since I'm waiting on parts, I started out by swapping the intake manifold on my Kubota V2403 diesel engine to make the turbo intercooler piping easier. Now I just need all my other parts to come in so I can get this intercooler setup done!
Here's the video if you want to watch it:
Let me know what you think!
Thanks
Grant
Started the process of preparing for a water to air intercooler setup on my Kubota diesel powered TJ Wrangler. Shipping is taking usually longer than normal so I started out by swapping the intake manifold on my Kubota V2403.
After getting my Borg Warner K03 turbo installed, I quickly realized that I needed to cool the incoming charged air from the turbo to help regulate/reduce my EGTs while both accelerating and holding speed.
Moving my Kubota engine forward for my Eco Box Doubler reduced the number of options I have for intercooler setups, especially if I want to have AC which I plan on installing at some point on my TJ Wrangler.
I'll be utilizing two 4x6 barrel style water-to-air intercoolers to cool down the charged air from the turbo. It's possible that one 4x6 intercooler might have worked but I'm tired of fighting heat issues on this swap.
Yes I will be loosing some overall boost pressure from the two intercoolers and will more than likely have a tiny bit of lag for all the piping that I will have with this setup. To me that was a trade off for not having to be concerned about heat soak and EGTs at low speed while wheeling and crawling was worth it.
Since I'm waiting on parts, I started out by swapping the intake manifold on my Kubota V2403 diesel engine to make the turbo intercooler piping easier. Now I just need all my other parts to come in so I can get this intercooler setup done!
Here's the video if you want to watch it:
Let me know what you think!
Thanks
Grant
derekmac
TJ Addict