A Story of Indecision and Frivolous Spending

All it takes to tack a bracket into place is holding the button on the MIG gun for like 3 seconds. Just a small dot to hold it in place so it won't move while you cycle. If you can barrow a unit, great. You won't need more than a few dollars of wire and gas at most so a pack of his favorite drink should cover it. You'll need gloves and a welding helmet too.

I don't know what you have for tools, but I highly recommend my 12amp Metabo 4.5" grinder and Walter cut off wheels and their high Edit: low grit flap wheels. A face shield is a must.

2 floor jacks make the job SO much faster to cycle the suspension than just one.

All that, along with a mini-sledge should be enough for you to mock up the mounts.

By the way, I'm not seeing a 12 amp Metabo grinder in 4.5". I only see the 12 amp in 6" and larger:

https://www.metabo.com/us/enus/tools/cutting-sanding-milling/angle-grinder/angle-grinders-o4-1-2-6/

Is the 4.5" more ideal than a 6" for a project like this?
 
Seems like the perfect excuse to buy the right tools and learn to do it yourself. :)

I can't tell you how many times I've taken something apart and re-done it because it "wasn't quite right". If someone was paying me to work on their rig, it might have been "good enough". My wife doesn't know where I get the patience.

You're right, I can't argue there. Maybe welding needs to become my new hobby, haha. I've honestly been thinking about it.
 
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I've got one floor jack and 2 jack stands. Sounds like I need to pay a trip to Harbor Freight and get another floor jack, since they don't cost that much. What height jacks do you recommend? I'm assuming the higher they go, the better.

HF's low profile one that goes up the highest is my favorite. Second favorite is the ATV jack. Third is the aluminum (mine is OTC branded, I'm not sure about HF's version.). For anything that doesn't need to go super high, the aluminum is my go to. You will want blocks of wood anyway which will also gain you some height on the jack.

I was going to ask about grinders and cut off wheels. The little Harbor Freight one I have won't cut it. I've tried cutting with it before, and it takes forever. I'll check out that setup you mentioned.

Imho, cheap grinders get hot, vibrate, and bog. None of those things make the work enjoyable. Except being a hand warmer 8 months of the year.

I'll talk to my neighbor about his welder. If tacking the mounts on is that easy, then yeah, I shouldn't have any trouble doing that myself.

It might be worth taking a look at your neighbors welds and asking him if he wouldn't mind finishing them for you for a few bills. I personally don't ask anything of my neighbors because I don't ever want to hate them for shoddy work, but that's just me.
 
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HF's low profile one that goes up the highest is my favorite. Second favorite is the ATV jack. Third is the aluminum (mine is OTC branded, I'm not sure about HF's version.). For anything that doesn't need to go super high, the aluminum is my go to. You will want blocks of wood anyway which will also gain you some height on the jack.

Okay, this is the one I already have, so I'll just have to buy another. I've got plenty of blocks of wood as well. Are you just setting the frame on jack stands then while you cycle the axle with the jacks?


Imho, cheap grinders get hot, vibrate, and bog. None of those things make the work enjoyable. Except being a hand warmer 8 months of the year.

Yes, that Harbor Freight one I have is 4.5 amps, and it's crappy. I need something seriously high powered that will cut with ease and not bog down. I don't want to spend unnecessary time cutting if I don't have to.

It might be worth taking a look at your neighbors welds and asking him if he wouldn't mind finishing them for you for a few bills. I personally don't ask anything of my neighbors because I don't ever want to hate them for shoddy work, but that's just me.

Yeah, I'm with you on that as well. He did some paint work for me, and I'm less that impressed with it. It's not bad by any means, but it's not what I expected or what I was paying for. Still, I'll have to check out some of his welds and at least see if they look any good.

Oops. 10.5a.

I'd never heard of this Metabo brand until now. Is this a better option than let's say a 13 amp DeWalt angle grinder? Just not sure what exactly separates a good angle grinder from a bad one.
 
I've got one floor jack and 2 jack stands. Sounds like I need to pay a trip to Harbor Freight and get another floor jack, since they don't cost that much. What height jacks do you recommend? I'm assuming the higher they go, the better.

I was going to ask about grinders and cut off wheels. The little Harbor Freight one I have won't cut it. I've tried cutting with it before, and it takes forever. I'll check out that setup you mentioned.

When cutting the factory control arm mounts I used a cut-off wheel, but it was taking forever. I pulled out the Saws-All and they cut right off.

In addition to a floor jack, I bought an Air Bumper Jack. Even with a lift and 35" tires, I will raise either end of the Jeep high enough to get the tires off the ground.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641742_200641742

Jack.jpg
 
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Are you just setting the frame on jack stands then while you cycle the axle with the jacks?

Yes. My go to for suspension is setting the stands 1" above ride height so I have a base line to work off of and enough room for the axle to droop. Everyone probably comes up with their own method and it depends on the height of your jack stands available.

I'd never heard of this Metabo brand until now. Is this a better option than let's say a 13 amp DeWalt angle grinder? Just not sure what exactly separates a good angle grinder from a bad one.

It's like what separates a good Snap-On ratchet from a cheapy Craftsman ratchet. It is smoother and fits better in your hand. Each can probably get the job done in the same time, it's which one is more enjoyable to use.

On the Metabo I prefer the quick change and the non-locking paddle.

The Walter abrasives last much longer than other brands I've used and remove material faster.
 
When cutting the factory control arm mounts I used a cut-off wheel, but it was taking forever. I pulled out the Saws-All and they cut right off.

In addition to a floor jack, I bought an Air Bumper Jack. Even with a lift and 35" tires, I will raise either end of the Jeep high enough to get the tires off the ground.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641742_200641742

View attachment 66527

I have never used one of those so I can't speak much of them. But I would not work under the Jeep (or very close like you would outboarding) if it doesn't have locking pins like a 2-post does.
 
You're right, I can't argue there. Maybe welding needs to become my new hobby, haha. I've honestly been thinking about it.

I'm a welder by trade, MIG welding is pretty straightforward and most stuff on a Jeep is pretty basic. The welder will pay for itself pretty fast when you start repairing and doing upgrades by yourself.

Take a class aimed at hobbyists, there are plenty that are a few hours after work or weekends that will get you started the right way and get you going much faster than toiling away in your garage self trouble shooting.
 
When cutting the factory control arm mounts I used a cut-off wheel, but it was taking forever. I pulled out the Saws-All and they cut right off.

In addition to a floor jack, I bought an Air Bumper Jack. Even with a lift and 35" tires, I will raise either end of the Jeep high enough to get the tires off the ground.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641742_200641742

View attachment 66527

I've got a very nice Sawzall, so I could always pull that out if I ever needed it, yes.

That's a nice jack, I didn't even know such a thing existed!
 
We use a DeWalt 4.5" at work and it is adequate. Get some 60 grit flap discs and a cutoff wheel for the grinder. A die grinder with some 4" cutoff discs comes in handy as well. Hobart makes a good entry level welder. Also, an angled die grinder with a 3" roloc disc is also handy for cleaning up/prepping for welding.
 
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It's like what separates a good Snap-On ratchet from a cheapy Craftsman ratchet. It is smoother and fits better in your hand. Each can probably get the job done in the same time, it's which one is more enjoyable to use.

On the Metabo I prefer the quick change and the non-locking paddle.

The Walter abrasives last much longer than other brands I've used and remove material faster.

I'll have to pick up some of those Walter abrasives in that case!

I'm a welder by trade, MIG welding is pretty straightforward and most stuff on a Jeep is pretty basic. The welder will pay for itself pretty fast when you start repairing and doing upgrades by yourself.

Take a class aimed at hobbyists, there are plenty that are a few hours after work or weekends that will get you started the right way and get you going much faster than toiling away in your garage self trouble shooting.

So it sounds like I won't need 5 different types of welders then? All I'll really need is a decent MIG welder for the stuff you'd do on a Jeep?
 
I've got a very nice Sawzall, so I could always pull that out if I ever needed it, yes.

That's a nice jack, I didn't even know such a thing existed!
I had bought a used two-post lift for $500 from a Ford dealer who was upgrading, but I didn't want to permanently mount it in my garage. It would mean having a post permanently fixed in the middle of a two-car garage, so no wide items or parking in the middle. As an alternative, I bought a used 2ton Air Bumper Jack - it's stored under the stairs and I pull it out when and where I need it. It's a good compromise between a floor jack and full hydraulic lift.

I knew about them because we had a couple at a Ford dealer I used to work at. With two you can lift both ends. It took me a while looking on Craigslist to find a used one - they are not very common.
 
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I'll have to pick up some of those Walter abrasives in that case!



So it sounds like I won't need 5 different types of welders then? All I'll really need is a decent MIG welder for the stuff you'd do on a Jeep?

If you're interested, I'll give you a list of stuff that works better than anything else we've tried and we've tried a bunch. It will step on a few toes so far, so I won't post it up until you're sure you want it and will use it, if not, I'm not going to waste the time. The only exception to that is the brand and size of welder and I'll put that in terms most Jeep owners can figure out.

If you want to go shoot some trap, you don't walk up to the line and start flailing about with a .410. You pick up a 12 gauge that has some forgiveness to the pattern so you can get results to keep you going with some interest.

Homeowner 110 welders are the same. Get something with some horsepower that only runs on 220 and enjoy the extra forgiveness it has to help you stay interested and focused. I won't say that Miller is the best, but I have no issues with the ones I've owned and used the crap out of.
 
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Last thing, it isn't half or one third, it is or needs to be expressed in inches of shaft showing at ride height on level ground with the travel of the shock included. We shoot sorta for "half" but that actually works out to 6.5-6.75" of shaft at ride height with a 12" travel shock so half isn't fully accurate. Numbers matter.
 
All I'll really need is a decent MIG welder for the stuff you'd do on a Jeep?

That's all I have, it's a Miller 211.

Most companies make a model that will run on 110v or 220v - 220V means you can work on thicker material, but you have to have a 220v outlet. 110v means you can use it anywhere, but are limited to how thick of material you can weld. I had 220v in my garage already, but it's nice having the 110v option also.

Harbor Freight sells one for $950, but the Miller or Lincoln is only $1,200 and much better quality.
 
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If you're interested, I'll give you a list of stuff that works better than anything else we've tried and we've tried a bunch. It will step on a few toes so far, so I won't post it up until you're sure you want it and will use it, if not, I'm not going to waste the time. The only exception to that is the brand and size of welder and I'll put that in terms most Jeep owners can figure out.

If you want to go shoot some trap, you don't walk up to the line and start flailing about with a .410. You pick up a 12 gauge that has some forgiveness to the pattern so you can get results to keep you going with some interest.

Homeowner 110 welders are the same. Get something with some horsepower that only runs on 220 and enjoy the extra forgiveness it has to help you stay interested and focused. I won't say that Miller is the best, but I have no issues with the ones I've owned and used the crap out of.

Yes, I'm very interested in that list. I'd follow it to a T. I'd rather do that than going out and wasting my money, only to find out that certain things aren't working well enough.

If you have a recommendation as well on a specific Miller welder that would be good for this project (and someone who is just starting), I would appreciate that as well. Also... a good mask. I don't want to go blind, so I'm not sure what to look for in terms of a quality welding mask versus a crappy one.

Last thing, it isn't half or one third, it is or needs to be expressed in inches of shaft showing at ride height on level ground with the travel of the shock included. We shoot sorta for "half" but that actually works out to 6.5-6.75" of shaft at ride height with a 12" travel shock so half isn't fully accurate. Numbers matter.

I get what you're saying. Right now there is around 5" showing at ride height, which isn't enough. I didn't measure that, I just eye-balled it. When I get it home tomorrow I'll measure it so I have an exact number.

This would also explain why the brackets look so low... because they are too low.