As others have said, nice job on an amazing restoration. Nice to see you wheeling it. Also V8s are good
Project: Probably Shouldn't Be Alive AKA Sue
- Thread starter Bennythebull
- Start date
As others have said, nice job on an amazing restoration. Nice to see you wheeling it. Also V8s are good
Cool to see a Jeep that frankly lost it’s right to live to be made roadworthy again. Really nice attention to detail on the patching and welds.
That V8 is gonna be fun. I still debate doing one, though my 05 is too new for a Magnum via federal standards and Hemis are expensive.
That V8 is gonna be fun. I still debate doing one, though my 05 is too new for a Magnum via federal standards and Hemis are expensive.
You need the bracket from M.O.R.E. or AA that raises it a little bit. And it's worth doing because if you don't you'll end up melting the bushing. The other option is to get the Skinny Steering shaft kit from Red Rock Off-Road like I have on mine.
BTW: I have a MORE bracket I'd sell for a less than new, it's never been used. I'd bought it and then decided to get the skinny shaft instead.
https://mountainoffroad.com/collections/wrangler-tj/products/jeep-steering-riser-bracket-1
But I think the AA bracket only works if it was originally a 6 cyl.
https://www.advanceadapters.com/5010
Good job on the wiring. And for a manual swap you did it the easier way. When doing a auto swap it's harder/easier to use the Dodge harness and then make it fit/work in the TJ.
I agree with this. You can either get a kit from a vendor or make your own but it makes life a lot easier.
OP
Yes this started life as a 4 cylinder, and the bushing is definitely in the danger zone of those headers, and that's considering the fact that they're cold!
Appreciate the feedback. Not too late is right, I think having a skid plate like that is a better idea, and it's going to be on my list after a few important other things first. Like the cooling system!
OP
That's just about my least favorite part of taking off the skid plate right now, haha. I guess that will have to be an addition I make soon.
Wish you were closer as I just bought a new radiator for my stroker and have the old AA radiator that cooled my 5.2 great. I melted the bushing on mine which is why I'd decided to go with the skinny steering.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...steering-kit&usg=AOvVaw3Zlkkyab2xTKT6Y3tjYzqh
I can't tell you which page it is on my build where I install the skinny steering.
Wow, great project. I’m late to the party, but in for the ride.
Nice work on the paint. Looks beautiful.
Nice work on the paint. Looks beautiful.
You can make your own or buy a kit. I bought the universal kit from TMR, but there are a bunch of options out there. You'll love it. It makes dropping the skid a couple minute procedure.
OP
I found this one from TMR: https://www.tmrcustoms.com/products/universal-transmission-transfer-case-crossmember-mount
And this one from Genright: https://genright.com/shop-by-vehicl...train/universal-transmission-crossmember-kit/
They both seem like a very useful thing to have!
This has been an incredible build so far! After the paint I was wondering "are they really going to stick with the 4-banger" .... then BOOM V-8 swap. great build.
What wheels are they btw?
What wheels are they btw?
OP
Yeah, honestly I liked the 2.5L ok for driving around! But as soon as I hit the dunes I instantly knew the V8 was inevitable. I couldn't even make it up 1/2 of test hill in 4Lo. Now I will bet a lot of that comes down to driver skill, but more power just sounds fun!
In terms of the wheels, I just bought these 15s off Quadratec. I think they look pretty decent and are definitely lighter than the stock steelies!
I have the one from TMR. Much like what Wildman said, either will do. They are a must have upgrade.
OP
Been a while, and a lot has happened. So let me catch you all up. After finally getting the engine and the wiring together, everything in its place, and trying to get the motor to start for a week or so I was just about losing my mind. With the help of my Grandfather, the FSM, and some advice from Wildman (thanks again), I was able to figure out my issues.
FIRST: My distributor was removed as part of the engine rebuild, so my fuel sync timing was WAY off. This made it so no matter how much I cranked it wouldn't light off
SECOND: I had a few bad grounds that I had to sort out on the engine block, probably not helping the situation.
THIRD: And this was the most important... The ECU company had taken the VIN that I gave them (which was equipped with the 2.5L i4) and sent me an ECU for the 4 banger. YES I specifically told them "well I really don't need that one, I need it to be for a 2000 5.2L Manual Trans Dodge Ram", and YES there are way better companies specifically for engine swaps (even more specifically for JEEP engine swaps!), but I am a cheap and dumb bastard! So for a week I was trying to start a V8 when the ECU thought it was an i4. You can't make this stuff up.
So for those of you, the very few of you I would imagine, who are going to do a 5.2 manual swap with Federal emissions - get PN 56040366AE for your ECU. That is a 2000 Dodge Ram 5.2L Manual.
FIRST: My distributor was removed as part of the engine rebuild, so my fuel sync timing was WAY off. This made it so no matter how much I cranked it wouldn't light off
SECOND: I had a few bad grounds that I had to sort out on the engine block, probably not helping the situation.
THIRD: And this was the most important... The ECU company had taken the VIN that I gave them (which was equipped with the 2.5L i4) and sent me an ECU for the 4 banger. YES I specifically told them "well I really don't need that one, I need it to be for a 2000 5.2L Manual Trans Dodge Ram", and YES there are way better companies specifically for engine swaps (even more specifically for JEEP engine swaps!), but I am a cheap and dumb bastard! So for a week I was trying to start a V8 when the ECU thought it was an i4. You can't make this stuff up.
So for those of you, the very few of you I would imagine, who are going to do a 5.2 manual swap with Federal emissions - get PN 56040366AE for your ECU. That is a 2000 Dodge Ram 5.2L Manual.
OP
OP
I had one other thing to take care of before putting it all back together - the grille body mount. The body mount always came loose in the front of the car and it was driving me crazy. So I took the grille apart (gently of course) with my grinder, and found out there was no nut left! So I added one and glued it all back together.
OP
Once I got the grille back on, I had a HELL of a time finding lower rad hose that would fit. For my upper hose, I went to the junkyard and found the ZJ hose was the best for my application, which is a Mishimoto radiator specifically for V8 swaps on TJs. HOWEVER, the lower radiator hose has to be exceptionally short to fit this setup. I tried out about 4 different hoses before I got the Gates 25526 hose from the auto parts store. I really had to clamp it down to keep it from leaking at the water pump, but it worked great after that.
OP
Shortly after I got the radiator hoses installed, I had the Jeep fully back together! But the check engine light was still on, and a P0121 code was still present. Let me tell you a fun story:
According to the TJ FSM, the order of the wires is "sensor ground", "TPS sensor", and "5v supply". The BR FSM has the same layout, just read in reverse. So basically... There should be no problem just using the TJ connector on the Magnum engine, RIGHT??
The answer is no. Unless I read this wrong, and I sure did double and triple check, I think there is an error in the BR FSM. The sensor ground and the 5v supply wires on the TJ connector MUST be swapped in order to clear the P0121 TPS code, and get the vehicle running correctly. With the code active, the vehicle is in limp-in mode, and is undriveable. The throttle pedal is basically an on/off switch.
According to the TJ FSM, the order of the wires is "sensor ground", "TPS sensor", and "5v supply". The BR FSM has the same layout, just read in reverse. So basically... There should be no problem just using the TJ connector on the Magnum engine, RIGHT??
The answer is no. Unless I read this wrong, and I sure did double and triple check, I think there is an error in the BR FSM. The sensor ground and the 5v supply wires on the TJ connector MUST be swapped in order to clear the P0121 TPS code, and get the vehicle running correctly. With the code active, the vehicle is in limp-in mode, and is undriveable. The throttle pedal is basically an on/off switch.
OP
I finally took out the Jeep for a first drive, and WOW! It was so quick, and the sound was awesome. Of course, I immediately blew off the upper rad hose. It was basically impossible to get it properly clamped with how tight the clearance was between the alternator bracket, the intake manifold, and the A/C compressor. So I removed the A/C compressor, installed the hose, and then re-installed the A/C compressor. Good as new!
