psrivats' 2005 TJ Rubicon mild build

lower axle mounts were not re drilled because it doesn't let me have the anti squat it needs to keep the front end on the ground, this was a hard one to realize since I've tried to keep the lower arms as flat as possible on alot of rigs over the years. one of the rigs that really bugged me was a midarm I did last year with 22.5" control arms, 4.5" mc springs and 14" travel bilstiens. after messing with it I figured out why.
re drilling the lowers is awesome with stock length short arms when using the upper geometry correction brackets and basically follows the same plane as the mid arm geometry using the stock lower axle end bolt hole.

The uppers are raised the same as always, what i did was drilled the track bar mount slightly lower to keep it off the body because it doesn't have a body lift.

I will likely never use another dual durometer bushing, ever. literally every single synergy control arm i've sold and every mid arm I have built in the last 5 years using dual durometer bushings, have been replaced within 18 months. one set was only driven 30 miles before it was sloppy and had symtoms of a loose bolt. synergy has decided I have to pay 50% for replacements that have little to no mileage on them and I have to send them in for inspection. the labor involved in changing them is not free. I am back to using Factory JK control arm bushings and as much as I hate the squaking, you'll likely see some MC bushings in the future.

Psrivats' control arms have factory JLU bushings and currie joints.

I kind of wondered about that the more I ponder going to longer arms from what I have now (Nth Degree geometry correction kit) and if the AS would be too low. Also interesting on the DDB. I have been running them for a couple years so far successfully on short arms. I guess I will just have to keep an eye on them.
 
Finally got my half doors painted. Just got this from the body shop just now. I also decided to get my flares refinished. Can't wait to get the rig back.

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After the half doors (and few small cosmetic bits) are done, these are the next projects in line for me. I have more things left to do but those will be in the fall/winter.

1. 97-02 style dual switch pod install in the dash. This is so that I can get 6 switches in all and all looking factory. I got a spare 03-06 dash bezel (local CL) and 2 97-02 switch pods and it looks like I can make them fit with a little bit of sanding and cutting. 6 switches are 2 independent lockers (need to wire them up), +my existing rear wiper, defrost, overdrive buttons and an extra for future use. This is the end goal (below image is a 97-02 jeep).

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2. Install a transmission temperature gauge (gauge will be located front of the tcase lever). I already bought the dorman pan which everyone uses for this.

3. Find a set of 2001-07 Ford ranger Alcoa wheels (15x7, 5x4.5 bolt pattern, 4.5" backspacing). These will let me go to skinny 33s in the future. These are the wheels I am hoping to find - they came in a machined and a polished version. I like the polished version better. I spent a lot of time looking at aftermarket wheels .. not much out that I actually like, esp given what they cost new. These Alcoa are forged alloys - as light and strong as they come. And I think they will look good on the Jeep.


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I also got in the kickstarter for the rollnjack *very* early on and got a *really* great price. I hate calling people to come over to help remove the hardtop and hearing the same comments about the jeep every year. I think this will do the job very nicely. Should be getting delivery very soon. I have to say that this is the best kickstarter that I have been part of - really well handled. This thing can assembled/disassesmbled in 10-15min to store away for the winter.

I have some worry about storing the hard top this way rather than on the cart I normally store it on. Hoping it won't be a problem down the years with warping etc. If it really bothers me I can always still use my cart to store the top after taking it off the jeep using this contraption.


These are the dimensions for the rollnjack, if anyone cares.

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I am also having the body shop apply bedliner on the lip of the tub in the rear where the hard top sits. That area is pretty scratched up on my jeep and I hate the look whenever I put the soft top. I will post a photo when I get the rig back in the next couple days.
 
When I buy a place of my own I am so doing this. Are you using a boat hoist? Any issues/concerns suspending the hardtop that way?

I use 4 motorcycle tie down straps supporting 2 metal poles I scavenged from left overs of a portable car port. Drilled holes in one end of the poles for the hooks to go thru. Covered the poles that touch the hard top with pipe insulation for protection. Once suspended in my car port, it is actually pretty stable. Stable enough to trust parking the front of the jeep under it.
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I use 4 motorcycle tie down straps supporting 2 metal poles I scavenged from left overs of a portable car port. Drilled holes in one end of the poles for the hooks to go thru. Covered the poles that touch the hard top with pipe insulation for protection. Once suspended in my car port, it is actually pretty stable. Stable enough to trust parking the front of the jeep under it.
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Nice and simple. Well done.
 
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One thing I have always wanted to "fix" .. the area where the hard top sit on the tub rail in the rear was super scratched up from the PO. I think this is not just from taking the top on and off but also from hauling stuff in and out from the side.

Inspired by this old post, I decided to have bedliner applied properly (after the right prep work) by the body shop that is doing some work on my doors. It was super cheap so decided to get it done. I think this solves that problem, bit visually and from a usability viewpoint, for good.

I will post a better photo later this week without the top. I like this solution better than the rugged ridge "armor" you can buy - sticking with 3M tape doesn't seem like a good idea for that area (as reviews attest) and I don't want to put sheet metal screws in to hold it.

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Winters get cold enough here that I usually run the hard top. I had gotten a set of hothead headliners (medium grey color) a while ago to go for better insulation. Finally got around to installing them earlier this week. Followed the instructions on the website and had no issues. These are worth the money in two ways .. the jeep interior now looks finished and they also make the vehicle audibly quieter.

These will good in the summer too .. how many of us have felt the heat on the top of our noggins after parking the jeep with the hard top in the sun even for a short while if we have the hard top on?

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Gave the jeep a much needed bath/wax. I also got half doors and slider windows installed .. I had to take the jeep to the body shop (same one that painted the doors) since I could not figure out how to adjust the windows to close properly. I tried for hours and gave up, but they somehow managed somehow do it. But even now, the half doors alone close pretty normally but it takes a pretty firm push to close the doors+windows shut properly. I am hoping it gets better with time. This is the first time the full doors have come off my Jeep.

The plan to see how well these sliding doors work this winter with the hardtop. If I don't like them I always have my full doors. Next is to take the hardtop off.

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I also finally received the Roll-n-jack hardtop remover that I have been waiting for weeks. It is a good kit and will suit me well. However on assembly, I found that the "spider" portion of it is (on which the hard top sits) not sitting level since they did not drill the holes with the spder properly clocked to the vertical piece it attaches to. You can see the slant in the photos below - it is supposed to be flat.

I contacted them and they are air shipping me a new part today/tomorrow and I will have it early next week.

For those of you wondering, this is a a very good piece of kit. It is pretty well designed and very well made, and was easy to put together. The company has fantastic customer service. I sent them these photos and they immediately said they are shipping a new part, nothing else was needed. Once the new part comes I look forward to taking the top off by myself.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/roll-n-jack.38900/
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I am working on couple interior projects .. hoping to complete in next couple weeks. Also going to send rear ds back to Adams or TW for a check next week.

Is there ever a "finally done" for our jeeps? :unsure: :unsure:

If they were finally done, we probably wouldn't have bought a TJ, lol! What's up with the DS? Still some vibes? Send it to TW. I did that with the front DS I got from Adams. They balanced it better.
 
If they were finally done, we probably wouldn't have bought a TJ, lol! What's up with the DS? Still some vibes? Send it to TW. I did that with the front DS I got from Adams. They balanced it better.

Yeah .. want to see it I can dial it out further. Will send to Tom Woods.
 
Roll-n-Jack gets full 100/100 for customer service. They shipped the replacement parts from Vietnam via DHL air and I got it today, along with a handwritten note. The new part fixed the issue as you can see below.

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However, I ran into the next issue. I knew the clearances were going to be close (from the dimensions below) and I was hoping that it won't be a problem.

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However the circular support pads on which the top rests are just a tad bit bigger for the TJ top. The pads rub just a tad bit on the sound pods in the front and also on the vertical portion of the rear top area.

This is all on me though, not the company's fault in any way or form. I'm going to take it to a local machine shop and reduce the diameter just a tad bit and I'll be gold. It'll take couple seconds on a lathe honestly.

Ah, the things we do for our Jeeps!

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