I need to put the fenders on, but the genright sliders are intentionally left long, you have to trim them to fit you fenders, whatever they may be. So I started by laying tape down on the fender, around the flare, to recreate the radius, which is a 2.25" circle by the way.

PXL_20220703_222318556.jpg


Drill the hole

PXL_20220703_230021832.jpg


And use a cutting wheel to connect the lines

PXL_20220703_233457805.jpg


I'll clean up the cut, and trim the little leftover nub.

PXL_20220703_233854401.jpg


I got dead even with the flak jackets

PXL_20220703_233901540.jpg



I'm loving the look

PXL_20220703_234119680.jpg
 
Back to the steering. I fabricated a trackbar from 1.5" 0.25 wall DOM, utilizing 3/4" joints. Using a HF pipe bender and some patience, I put two bends in the track bar. The first to go over the diff and the second to tuck under the frame again.

PXL_20220714_145101856.jpg


The drag link and trackbar get close, but clear.
PXL_20220714_145116960.jpg


At ride height with approx 6" of up travel. Trackbar and draglink are parallel and equal in length.
PXL_20220714_145208983.jpg


Axle track bar mount. Its single shear but that is a 3/4" bolt going through it. Note how the heim sits close to the tube... it will allow for a small amount of movement, just enough to accommodate travel, but not so much the trackbar can get tangled up in the steering. Its totally neutral at ride height. You can see the bump stop from the factory to get an idea of how far the axle has moved forward. The factory TJ stuff the spring perch sits about 1.5" in front of the axle centerline, now its sitting about 1.5" behind axle centerline. Also the big ole notch for the drag link so it doesn't hit the frame.
PXL_20220714_145133744.jpg


Still lots to do, but the basic front steering and suspension is designed.
 
Back to the steering. I fabricated a trackbar from 1.5" 0.25 wall DOM, utilizing 3/4" joints. Using a HF pipe bender and some patience, I put two bends in the track bar. The first to go over the diff and the second to tuck under the frame again.

View attachment 342930

The drag link and trackbar get close, but clear.
View attachment 342931

At ride height with approx 6" of up travel. Trackbar and draglink are parallel and equal in length.
View attachment 342932

Axle track bar mount. Its single shear but that is a 3/4" bolt going through it. Note how the heim sits close to the tube... it will allow for a small amount of movement, just enough to accommodate travel, but not so much the trackbar can get tangled up in the steering. Its totally neutral at ride height. You can see the bump stop from the factory to get an idea of how far the axle has moved forward. The factory TJ stuff the spring perch sits about 1.5" in front of the axle centerline, now its sitting about 1.5" behind axle centerline. Also the big ole notch for the drag link so it doesn't hit the frame.
View attachment 342933

Still lots to do, but the basic front steering and suspension is designed.

Looks awesome man nice job on the steering.
 
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I need to put the fenders on, but the genright sliders are intentionally left long, you have to trim them to fit you fenders, whatever they may be. So I started by laying tape down on the fender, around the flare, to recreate the radius, which is a 2.25" circle by the way.

View attachment 340733

Drill the hole

View attachment 340734

And use a cutting wheel to connect the lines

View attachment 340735

I'll clean up the cut, and trim the little leftover nub.

View attachment 340736

I got dead even with the flak jackets

View attachment 340737


I'm loving the look

View attachment 340738

I am at this exact point on my Tracer build. How did you properly locate the hole location since you can't slide the hi-lines into the rocker uncut? Did you measure from the top edge where the fender will mate up?
 
I am at this exact point on my Tracer build. How did you properly locate the hole location since you can't slide the hi-lines into the rocker uncut? Did you measure from the top edge where the fender will mate up?

The flak jacket armor is perfectly lined up with the flare, so with the fender off, I still know where the flare will be using the flak jacket as a reference. So I used a straight edge to continue that line down the rock slider. Then using the tape in the pictures, made a template of the bottom of the flare, transferred it to the slider and connected all the lines. It worked pretty well
 
The flak jacket armor is perfectly lined up with the flare, so with the fender off, I still know where the flare will be using the flak jacket as a reference. So I used a straight edge to continue that line down the rock slider. Then using the tape in the pictures, made a template of the bottom of the flare, transferred it to the slider and connected all the lines. It worked pretty well

thank you for the quick response. is the bottom of the highline sitting all the way at the bottom bend of your rocker?
 
thank you for the quick response. is the bottom of the highline sitting all the way at the bottom bend of your rocker?

No problem,
it goes to the top bend. like so...
PXL_20220715_145911841.jpg


I still need to trim the rocker to fit the fender. I'll probably box the bottom and tie the fender to the rocker with two countersunk bolts.
 
No problem,
it goes to the top bend. like so...
View attachment 343140

I still need to trim the rocker to fit the fender. I'll probably box the bottom and tie the fender to the rocker with two countersunk bolts.

perfect, thank you so much!!! I am finding that my genright hi-lines are not welded identically so each side will be a custom cut into the slider, i am seeing about 1/4" of difference on where the tube starts at the bottom :(
 
And fully flexed out. I've been waiting for this, because it sets up a few things.

PXL_20220715_141317564.jpg


There is plenty of room for 37's. There is actually room for 38's. and If I can tolerate a little rubbing now and then, possibly 40s

There is way more room in the front for shocks than the back. Using the poly towers, the top of the tower will be around the height of the valve cover with 2.0 14" Fox coil overs (compressed length of 22.1")

So, I could go with a 2.5 14" fox coil over (compressed 24.4") or
I could go with a 2.0 16" fox coil over (compressed 24.1")

I've seen plenty of jeeps with 16" coil overs on the front, so its possible. Would it be weird to have more travel up front? 6" travel and 10" down?

or

The 2.5 14" fox coil overs. Larger shock, more damping. higher speeds ect. My concern is that this TJ will not weigh enough for proper valving at slower speeds.

If I wanted 2.5 coil overs in the rear, I could modify the axle side coil over mounts to accommodate a longer shock without losing any up travel.

14" and 16" fox shocks cost the same, so there's no issue with that. however 2.5's cost a bit more.

Mostly just putting my thoughts in writing to help me sort it, but thoughts, experiences and opinions are welcome
 
Would there be driveshaft bind with 10” down? I’d also be curious about the steering bind. Are you going to throw the cylinder on there soon as well to see how that plays?
 
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I don't know what you're expecting your rig to weigh when it's done, but my TJ is probably pretty close to what it weighed stock. My first trip to hammers with 2.0 RR after a couple of tunes I was getting cavitation in the shocks and had to back off the valving a bit.

Still have the same 2.0's in the front, but added some 2.5's in the back for the second KOH trip. The difference was astounding, I was definitely able to drive it faster than I should've been for a stockish looking TJ. The 2.0's in the front were still my limiting factor though, but that was around 40-50mph in whoops and still being able to jump it at similar speeds. That's with 6.5" up in the front and 8" up in the back on both shock setups.

For what I like to do I wouldn't even bother with 2.0's if I have the ability to fit 2.5s or something bigger. It's also my DD and I love driving it everyday, though I'm probably not as picky as I should be when it comes to on road handling. Just my two cents
 
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