There is a definite ticking sound coming from the OPDA. What are the chances of just being the cam sensor and not the whole unit that needs replacing? The car is a 03 Rubi. I just dread having to get the engine to TDC on the 1st cylinder because I don't have any professional tools available.
Question about camshaft sensor and oil pump drive assembly
- Thread starter doktormane
- Start date
The camshaft sensor itself has no moving parts, it is just a Hall sensor that senses the tone wheel indicators as they pass by when the OPDA shaft spins with the camshaft. If there is something ticking, there is something mechanically wrong and you are going to want to get it checked out by a mechanic. If the OPDA shaft wobbles due to failed a failed OPDA bushing, it can damage the camshaft if not promptly taken care of.
Another thing that can happen when the OPDA shaft wobbles is that it can cause the tone wheel to come into contact with the the tip of the camshaft sensor, if the gap is closed far enough during the wobble. The wobble event may be constant or it could potentially occur only during certain circumstances (at startup when cold etc.). Even though the 05-06 TJ's are known for OPDA, the other direct ignition non-distributor earlier model TJ's also have an OPDA and they can also fail. It was just of a different design that seems to be more durable.
Is it ticking all the time? Only at idle? Only on startup? Only when accelerating?
Any check engine light or codes? Always helpful if anything is available...or if they are not this also can tell you something.
Have you checked your oil level recently? It's important to make sure you are getting enough enough oil up into the OPDA. I always like to have mine right at the full line.
Another thing that can happen when the OPDA shaft wobbles is that it can cause the tone wheel to come into contact with the the tip of the camshaft sensor, if the gap is closed far enough during the wobble. The wobble event may be constant or it could potentially occur only during certain circumstances (at startup when cold etc.). Even though the 05-06 TJ's are known for OPDA, the other direct ignition non-distributor earlier model TJ's also have an OPDA and they can also fail. It was just of a different design that seems to be more durable.
Is it ticking all the time? Only at idle? Only on startup? Only when accelerating?
Any check engine light or codes? Always helpful if anything is available...or if they are not this also can tell you something.
Have you checked your oil level recently? It's important to make sure you are getting enough enough oil up into the OPDA. I always like to have mine right at the full line.
Thanks for the thorough reply. As far as I can tell it only start ticking when the engine has warmed up. Oil level is good, a bit past the fill line as I've put 6 liters instead of the 5.7.
Just to clarify, if I don't turn the engine over during the process, the replacement job is out with the old in with the new, right? I am talking about the whole oil pump drive assembly of course, not just the camshaft sensor. I wouldn't have to set the 1st cylinder to TDC?
Edit: this is for the 05/06, but the 03 should be similar.
I don't recommend just yanking it out and hoping it doesn't move. It's the motor turning that you don't want as well as the tone wheel\OPDA housing turning out of reference.
Here is what I would recommend, but consult the FSM if you have more questions. There are also several OPDA threads on the forum as well that you can reference.
1) Took the cap off the OPDA and remove the camshaft sensor.
2) I put turned the engine over by hand from the crank and had my son watch from the top for when the OPDA tone wheel index/reference holes line up.
Note: I didn't remove the spark plugs, I just used a long 1/2" breaker bar, easy peasy.
3) When the holes approach, start turning it over slower until they line up. Have your helper drop in a screwdriver into/through the OPDA index hole(s) when they align.
Edit: clarification as discussed below "When the holes are getting close to lining up, you refer to the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and the front of the motor. Line those up to get #1 at TDC."
4) Mark the OPDA housing and engine block where they mated with a marker, so you can orient the same way after removal and reinstall.
5) Remove the retainer bolt for the OPDA and pull out the old OPDA. You may need to slightly turn and pull as I recall.
6) Make the same mark on the new OPDA in the exact same spot on the housing. Use a reference point on the old housing to measure and apply the geometry to the new housing to get it as close as possible.
7) The new OPDA should have the plastic pin keeping the tone wheel index holes lined up. Install it with the pin left in place.
8) Install the new OPDA, sliding it in the same way you spun the old one out.
9) Line up up the mark on the engine block with the mark you made on the new OPDA housing in step 6.
10) Tighten the OPDA retain and make sure the OPDA housing doesn't spin, keep your OPDA mark in line with the mark on the block. Not sure of the torque specs, but don't over do it.
11) Remove the plastic pin from the OPDA index hole and replace the cap.
12) Reinstall the Camshaft sensor and plug into engine harness. Make sure the connector is clean and your wires are good. Make sure you use a Mopar sensor. Use your old one if it is still in good shape.
Done!
I don't recommend just yanking it out and hoping it doesn't move. It's the motor turning that you don't want as well as the tone wheel\OPDA housing turning out of reference.
Here is what I would recommend, but consult the FSM if you have more questions. There are also several OPDA threads on the forum as well that you can reference.
1) Took the cap off the OPDA and remove the camshaft sensor.
2) I put turned the engine over by hand from the crank and had my son watch from the top for when the OPDA tone wheel index/reference holes line up.
Note: I didn't remove the spark plugs, I just used a long 1/2" breaker bar, easy peasy.
3) When the holes approach, start turning it over slower until they line up. Have your helper drop in a screwdriver into/through the OPDA index hole(s) when they align.
Edit: clarification as discussed below "When the holes are getting close to lining up, you refer to the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and the front of the motor. Line those up to get #1 at TDC."
4) Mark the OPDA housing and engine block where they mated with a marker, so you can orient the same way after removal and reinstall.
5) Remove the retainer bolt for the OPDA and pull out the old OPDA. You may need to slightly turn and pull as I recall.
6) Make the same mark on the new OPDA in the exact same spot on the housing. Use a reference point on the old housing to measure and apply the geometry to the new housing to get it as close as possible.
7) The new OPDA should have the plastic pin keeping the tone wheel index holes lined up. Install it with the pin left in place.
8) Install the new OPDA, sliding it in the same way you spun the old one out.
9) Line up up the mark on the engine block with the mark you made on the new OPDA housing in step 6.
10) Tighten the OPDA retain and make sure the OPDA housing doesn't spin, keep your OPDA mark in line with the mark on the block. Not sure of the torque specs, but don't over do it.
11) Remove the plastic pin from the OPDA index hole and replace the cap.
12) Reinstall the Camshaft sensor and plug into engine harness. Make sure the connector is clean and your wires are good. Make sure you use a Mopar sensor. Use your old one if it is still in good shape.
Done!
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There are several good U-tube videos on this. Same as he just described, just easier to understand because you can see it. Just did mine last week and it is even easier than the vids make it seem. If you have ever swapped distributors out on other trucks then you know what to do. Check out the U-tube.
Finally, somebody put it in terms that I understand. Thank you for that! Reading that it gave me the confidence to attempt it on my own.
Just a couple of questions:
1. Why do some people remove the spark plugs when turning the engine? Does it make it easier?
How are you sure the ticking is coming from the OPDA? Most people get other more obvious noises, not "ticking", from a failed OPDA.
The technique outlined above works great if and only if the OPDA you are removing was set correctly to start with. If it is, you are golden. If not, not so much. You'll just end up with the timing off exactly like the old OPDA.
I would make 1 minor mod to those instructions. When the holes are getting close to lining up, you refer to the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and the front of the motor. Line those up to get #1 at TDC. Then install the new OPDA with the alignment pin.
This way, you'll be good even if the timing was off on the old OPDA.
The technique outlined above works great if and only if the OPDA you are removing was set correctly to start with. If it is, you are golden. If not, not so much. You'll just end up with the timing off exactly like the old OPDA.
I would make 1 minor mod to those instructions. When the holes are getting close to lining up, you refer to the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and the front of the motor. Line those up to get #1 at TDC. Then install the new OPDA with the alignment pin.
This way, you'll be good even if the timing was off on the old OPDA.
When I put my fingers on the sensor housing the ticking feels the strongest. Also, it only starts one the engine has warmed up.
Yes, removing the plugs makes it easier to turn over since there isn’t the regular compression of air inside the cylinders.
Nice addition, good to clarify that part.
Nice addition, good to clarify that part.
The lazy way to rotate the engine is simply put it in 6th gear (5th if a 5 speed) and 2Hi and just push the car forward. Just make sure you don’t have your keys in the ignition
Mower2339
Member
If I recall correctly, it’s at about 1-2 o’clock. It’s just a single mark. When you find it you might put some light colored fingernail polish on it so you can see it better.
Mower2339
Member
Pull the cap off the OPDA. It's just two screws. And see what is going on in there. It could be something simple is going on. The sensor may just need a shim to move it back so it isn't making contact when it gets hot. Always do the easy stuff first.
And be sure you are on top dead center (compression) and not lined up on the exhaust stroke. Watch a couple Utube vids. You can even go step by step with the vid by hitting pause between steps.
And be sure you are on top dead center (compression) and not lined up on the exhaust stroke. Watch a couple Utube vids. You can even go step by step with the vid by hitting pause between steps.