Question about studs when using wheel adapters

The TJ I bought had a Ford 8.8 installed and a pair of 1.25" spacers on it. It was a big red flag when I found the rear wheels sitting on the top of the studs rather than flat on the spacer. I bought a set of 1.5" spacers to make it right.
 
.the axle is only centered under the Jeep by one lonely M10 bolt.

Make sure you understand the difference of forces on the wheel studs compared to the trackbar bolt.

I'd rather have a properly backspaced rim than spacers for several reasons including less points of failure and less misalignment tolerances.
 
The TJ I bought had a Ford 8.8 installed and a pair of 1.25" spacers on it. It was a big red flag when I found the rear wheels sitting on the top of the studs rather than flat on the spacer. I bought a set of 1.5" spacers to make it right.

Depending on how those spacers are, you probably are able to cut the studs down. Make sure you have a safe amount of thread engaged.
 
Depending on how those spacers are, you probably are able to cut the studs down. Make sure you have a safe amount of thread engaged.
I thought about that. So I put a lug on there first so I could unthread it to clean up the threads after I cut them. But didn't like the fact that I'd have short studs, in case I ever changed the wheel setup in the future.
 
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If I go to 315s as planned, I plan to use 1.25” (maybe even 1.5”) spacers to net 3.75” (or even 3.5”) total backspacing on stock Moab wheels. I’ll probably go with a name brand like Spidertrax because I’d rather have something that WILL work as opposed to something that will probably work.

For me the price of failure and being stranded is far higher than the initial cost of name brand spacers. This applies to a lot of my design choices, not just spacers. For others, the initial cost may outweigh the potential costs of failure.
 
Not necessarily true.

Many of the ones sold on Amazon have been used by a number of us including myself, @toximus, @Mike_H, and a number of others.

Spidertrax is just a name. The trick is making sure the adapters are CNC billet, not cast aluminum.

Don't be fooled into thinking Spidertrax is somehow better than anything else. The ones he bought on Amazon are just fine.
I know from all the ones I've messed with that Spidertrax are indeed much higher quality. It is up to you what you do with that info. They aren't just a name. The ones I use are also CNC billet. I have stripped several of the studs because the hole for the knurling on the stud is just a smidgen too large and there isn't enough spline engagement to make them fool proof. That has never been the case with any of the many Spidertrax I have removed and reinstalled as part of a brake kit installation.
 
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I'll throw in my old man's outdated opinion'tho I dont think I am really old. For things like brakes, tires, steering, I am willing to spend a little more. The cheapest item is cheapest for a reason. Be that cheaper materials, cheaper workmanship, cheaper advertising budget. I'll roll the dice on cheap lawnmower blade, cheap socks, cheap seat covers. If/when the item fails I haven't killed myself. Cheap socks may put a hole in the toe, cheap shoes could twist/break an ankle and you fall off the mountain. Outdated way of thinking, I know, but I haven't had a lumpy mattress to sleep on either.
We all have our priorities. I've spent far more on good socks than I ever have on wheel adapters.
 
If I go to 315s as planned, I plan to use 1.25” (maybe even 1.5”) spacers to net 3.75” (or even 3.5”) total backspacing on stock Moab wheels. I’ll probably go with a name brand like Spidertrax because I’d rather have something that WILL work as opposed to something that will probably work.

For me the price of failure and being stranded is far higher than the initial cost of name brand spacers. This applies to a lot of my design choices, not just spacers. For others, the initial cost may outweigh the potential costs of failure.
I agree with your logic. I use the junk ones I use because I can deal with the problems. If you can't, get something that you know you won't have to deal with at some point.
 
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I know from all the ones I've messed with that Spidertrax are indeed much higher quality. It is up to you what you do with that info. They aren't just a name. The ones I use are also CNC billet. I have stripped several of the studs because the hole for the knurling on the stud is just a smidgen too large and there isn't enough spline engagement to make them fool proof. That has never been the case with any of the many Spidertrax I have removed and reinstalled as part of a brake kit installation.

Good to know! I didn't run the Amazon ones for long enough (nor did I put them through any of the things you or your customers likely would) to comment too much on them, other than they did a good job while I had them.

It seems @Mike_H has had them for a long time (and a number of miles) without any issues, so that's promising at least.
 
Good to know! I didn't run the Amazon ones for long enough (nor did I put them through any of the things you or your customers likely would) to comment too much on them, other than they did a good job while I had them.

They're still doing just fine and able to do everything I expect them to. After having a tire shop touch the tires I have gotten in the habit of taking the tires back off to double check the spacers to make sure they didn't mess anything up. They will be replaced soon to run a different bolt pattern, aside from that I would have left them.

There's somewhere around 6000 miles on them since I've been running them.
 
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Good to know! I didn't run the Amazon ones for long enough (nor did I put them through any of the things you or your customers likely would) to comment too much on them, other than they did a good job while I had them.

It seems @Mike_H has had them for a long time (and a number of miles) without any issues, so that's promising at least.

I have. And they work...for me. That's not to say that you should or shouldn't run them on your own rig. To be completely honest....I almost bought the Spidertrax ones too, but decided to gamble on the Amazon ones because I'm a bit tight with my money and I know I can handle the consequences of failure. What Blaine is saying makes total sense with regard to quality.

Make sure you understand the difference of forces on the wheel studs compared to the trackbar bolt.
I do know the difference in forces. I was simply trying to illustrate why we shouldn't be afraid of bolted connections.
I'd rather have a properly backspaced rim than spacers for several reasons including less points of failure and less misalignment tolerances.
I agree with this statement too. If I could find the AEV wheels in the TJ pattern, Id run them in a heartbeat. I can't, so far, so I run an alternative.

If you are using blue loctite on your adapters don't check the torque at it's full value or else you may break the loctite.
I actually don't use any Loctite on my spacers. My theory is that I've never used it on my lugnuts, so why are the adapters any different? If you torque them properly, the thread friction will prevent them from loosening, just like your wheel lugnuts.
 
They're still doing just fine and able to do everything I expect them to. After having a tire shop touch the tires I have gotten in the habit of taking the tires back off to double check the spacers to make sure they didn't mess anything up. They will be replaced soon to run a different bolt pattern, aside from that I would have left them.

There's somewhere around 6000 miles on them since I've been running them.

Good to know! You drove cross country with them too, which says something!

I agree with what you're saying though, I would much rather have a properly backspaced wheel if possible. Of course as you know, with Pintlers, they no longer make them for the TJ, so I didn't have an option really.

Anyways, I'm not trying to discourage against Spidertrax at all. I'm just trying to point out to the OP that these Amazon ones a lot of us are running do seem to do the trick, and don't cost a lot either.
 
I bought these to use on my front axle to match the JK rear WMS. They appear to be as good as any others I've seen and the only ones I could find a 2" spacer/adapter. They fit well, have good looking studs/nuts and enough clearance to get in the lug/socket to torque.
The spacers sit flush as well as the wheels. Everything lined up perfectly.
The 1.5" spacers I removed had plenty of stud/lug clearance as well.

Not recommending, just putting out another opinion.
https://wheeladaptersusa.com/produc...ls-on-tj-yj-kk-sj-xj-mj-1?variant=26456328840
 
I know from all the ones I've messed with that Spidertrax are indeed much higher quality. It is up to you what you do with that info. They aren't just a name. The ones I use are also CNC billet. I have stripped several of the studs because the hole for the knurling on the stud is just a smidgen too large and there isn't enough spline engagement to make them fool proof. That has never been the case with any of the many Spidertrax I have removed and reinstalled as part of a brake kit installation.
Glad you posted this. I just talked a friend into putting spidertrax on his Sequoia and was feeling a little guilty about spending his money.
 
Thanks guys for all the input. Doesn't matter whether its favorable or not, everyone has an opinion right?

Anyways once I actually got them out and checked them the studs are fine, I threw a new closed acorn on there and must have been something in end of nut which stopped it short of fully seating to wheel is why it seemed studs were too long. Sorry it was after a late work night and by time I did one I was done. but their all good.

JEEPCJTJ

And the adapter looks like it comes with 5 nuts each. I'm not sure why they are on the studs for the picture but I'd hope that they fit the studs on the Jeep to hold these adapters on and then you can use your original nuts to hold the wheel to the adapter.

Of course if those nuts only fit the adapter studs I'd blame the Chinese for yet another way to screw up America.

yep, sure do. And IDK I guess to hold them in place for shipping. or to give someone a job at screwing nuts onto adapters.

and yes they do. So can't blame the Chinese for that one.

Steel City 06


look for hub centric ones.

They are and fit together nicely.

mrblaine

The load is 100% carried by the friction developed by the clamping force of the 5 lug nuts and studs, not the hub centric hole or pilot.

👍


pagrey

Since I didn't see the answer anywhere above I'll comment. The stock lugs should fit without cutting the stud on the adapter. Just try it out and see for yourself but I wouldn't overthink it.

Thank you sir.

Goatman

I'll roll the dice on cheap lawnmower blade, cheap socks, cheap seat covers.

But on that note I ask you how do you justify using that cheaper lawnmower blade made of inferior Chinese steel or whatever it may be made of hitting something in yard, snapping in two and then the piece no longer bolted to engine blasting thru the cheap thin metal deck flying thru the air toward the family sitting on porch drinking a nice tall glass of sweet tea? Guess all I'm saying is anything can fail at any given time no matter who makes it or how well it is supposedly made.
 
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Chris


Spidertrax is just a name. The trick is making sure the adapters are CNC billet, not cast aluminum.

Don't be fooled into thinking Spidertrax is somehow better than anything else. The ones he bought on Amazon are just fine.



toximus

There are some completely no name startup brands that I would not trust that sell on Amazon and Ebay.


Very very true. Almost everyone seems to be out to just make a quick buck anymore and doesn't matter the consequences mainly because hardly there aren't any anymore. Companies here today grab a bunch of peoples money and give guarantee's and a few months never existed.



Mike_H

I don't understand why there is drama regarding spacers.

Hell, your whole vehicle is bolted together.

Because our society cannot take ANY personal responsibility for their actions, they get on the internet and blame the spacer for being Junky, or Chinese, or defective, or whatever.

Mike, you must be a grouchy ole bastard like I'm getting to be because we think too much alike. Thank You sir.👍
 
A few days ago I installed some 1.25" spacers on my Jeep. The front Dana 30 studs fit perfectly, but the rear 8.8 with alloy shafts had slightly longer studs. The smooth non-threaded portion of the studs poked out a bit past the face of the spacers so I ground it flat. My aftermarket rims don't have a dimple for the studs so the grinder was the way to go. Everything seems fine and I don't have any feelings of impending doom.