Question Regarding Savvy Double Adjustable Control Arms

griswld

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Lexington, SC
Just ordered the Savvy double adjustable rear upper control arms and was looking for videos on how to actually adjust them once installed. Can you adjust by hand with a full load on them after loosening the jam nuts or do you have to raise the axles to adjust? I understand all of the angles and what needs to be done from reading but it’s not clear how to actually manipulate the control arms. I haven’t received them yet so it’s kind of a mystery. Sorry in advance for asking a dumb question.
 
Only by hand. No need to unload the axles. If they are too hard to turn by hand, that means something is binding. There is a reason they don’t have external hex or flats or any other provisions for getting extra leverage on them. If you need to adjust two at the same time a good ways, do a couple turns then alternate.
 
The length is adjusted by hand only. Do not use any tools. If the link stops turning, move to the other side.

The jam nuts need a big wrench to tighten. And a small pry bar is needed to roll the Johnny Joints over against the brackets so you can tighten the jam nuts and keep the joints lined up on each end.
 
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I've been known to lay under the Jeep and adjust both at the same time with one hand on each...but make sure you follow the marking guidance above so it's easier to see that you're spinning them the same amount. You may also want to put an arrow on each one to remind you which way loosens. Depending on which adjustment you're making (such as centering the axle under the rig) you may want to shorten one while lengthening the other, and the lengthening direction may be different between sides if you installed them with the RH thread at the frame on one side and at the axle on the other....
 
I've been known to lay under the Jeep and adjust both at the same time with one hand on each...but make sure you follow the marking guidance above so it's easier to see that you're spinning them the same amount. You may also want to put an arrow on each one to remind you which way loosens. Depending on which adjustment you're making (such as centering the axle under the rig) you may want to shorten one while lengthening the other, and the lengthening direction may be different between sides if you installed them with the RH thread at the frame on one side and at the axle on the other....

If you are adjusting the uppers, the number of turns isn't as important as the load on each arm. We do the same, both at the same time by hand but with attention paid to the force needed to turn the arm. If you go by number of turns, it is very easy to wind up with one side in a bind. The only time we pay closer attention to the number of turns with a reference mark is when we've already centered the axle that doesn't have a track bar. Then we balance turns with force to avoid running the axle off center.
 
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Great information! So as I raise the pinion angle with a jack as I’m adjusting the upper control arms or is there a better way?
 
Great information! So as I raise the pinion angle with a jack as I’m adjusting the upper control arms or is there a better way?

No jack needed. Just turn CAs by hand and the pinion goes up or down. It's easier than you think to tilt the pinion.

Note: When installing the CAs, do ONE at a time. You don't want to remove both upper CAs at the same time or the axle can do evil things.
 
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No jack needed. Just turn CAs by hand and the pinion goes up or down. It's easier than you think to tilt the pinion.

Note: When installing the CAs, do ONE at a time. You don't want to remove both upper CAs at the same time or the axle can do evil things.

Very much appreciated!
 
If you are adjusting the uppers, the number of turns isn't as important as the load on each arm. We do the same, both at the same time by hand but with attention paid to the force needed to turn the arm. If you go by number of turns, it is very easy to wind up with one side in a bind. The only time we pay closer attention to the number of turns with a reference mark is when we've already centered the axle that doesn't have a track bar. Then we balance turns with force to avoid running the axle off center.

yeah I kinda went on into my next thought without addressing that. When centering the axle, the bodies won't turn 1:1 as each arm moves farther from/closer to parallel with the longitudinal axis of the vehicle.

The problem I ran into that made me start using the arrows, is without the track bar connected, you have enough degrees of freedom to do all sorts of stuff without them getting into a bind to tell you. I went off turning one link in the wrong direction (because I had the RH JJ on the opposite end of the link) and by the time I realized the axle wasn't moving side to side, my caster/pinion was completely f*d.