Questions about 5.2 Magnum and NV3500 swap

Notime2d8

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Jun 23, 2019
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32
Location
Alabama
So I bought a mostly finished Wrangler project. I'm close to driving it but have a few things I'm unsure of.

The PO swapped in a 5.2l, nv3550, and a np249. To those who've done this swap:

How did you get your reverse lights working? Or where are the wires for it?

Also from the pictures that I've attached, did they mount the engine too far forward? The shifter is a good bit forward and I need a longer rear driveshaft. There's about a half inch I can side it back on the mounts.... Doesn't seem like enough. And on the driver's side the mount is backed up to the steering bracket.
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I think the nv3550 switch is on the drivers side of the transmission and a 2000 might have had it on the passenger side if it was stick to start with. First find the switch on the transmission and go from there.
 
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I can't help you with the reverse switch since I have an auto tranny.
As far as moving the engine back more I would leave it where it is or move it back that 1/2" and that is it. The longer you can make your rear driveline the better. I would also look at swapping out the 249 transfer case unless it is what you want. IMHO a 231 with a SYE would be a better choice.
 
I can't help you with the reverse switch since I have an auto tranny.
As far as moving the engine back more I would leave it where it is or move it back that 1/2" and that is it. The longer you can make your rear driveline the better. I would also look at swapping out the 249 transfer case unless it is what you want. IMHO a 231 with a SYE would be a better choice.
Thanks, yes that's probably what I will do. And I am wanting to swap transfer cases but I'm trying to get it driving first before I start on upgrades. I was sad seeing the unknown condition and mileage np249 up under there.

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Thanks, yes that's probably what I will do. And I am wanting to swap transfer cases but I'm trying to get it driving first before I start on upgrades. I was sad seeing the unknown condition and mileage np249 up under there.

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Something to remember is if you get a driveline made for the 249 and then swap in a 231 with a SYE you will have to get that new shaft modified. I get wanting to get it running and drivable but I think I would find a 231 to swap in.
 
Yeah, so it came with 3x drive shafts. The stock one that was too short, one for a SYE , and a long one to cut to length. I cut and welded it to size I need. If I get any funky vibrations then I'll use it to get a new one made.

Looking for a 231 in the meantime.


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I also can't move the engine any. The advance adapters kit puts the engine forward a few inches. I guess it's fine because I have clearance to get to all parts of the engine. I cut and welded the shifter linkage to put it in the stock location so that the center console and covers all fit. Will see how it works or if I need to find something else.

Still need to find a fan to use. I only have about 6" between the water pump pulley and the radiator.
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Starting to regret just a little bit. But I'm mostly done with my swap. Just a lot of little issues. I'm posting here so I don't keep starting new post.

But what can I do about my accumulator not fitting? It's hitting my headers.
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I'm going to order and try one of these it's 8" inches long and has the same fittings on both sides. i may try to bend the lines so that it's higher up? Also may notch my battery tray. The only other option is mounting it behind the grille and getting custom lines made.

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Realized that I hadn't updated this. Just going to post a few things for anyone else doing this swap.

I replaced the oil pan that came with my engine. I was going to with a stock replacement but went with one from a Durango instead. It had an oil baffle and looks sleeker. Also the oil drain is at a better spot. The pickup tube was different but I needed a new one as the old one clogs easy.
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Realized that I hadn't updated this. Just going to post a few things for anyone else doing this swap.

I replaced the oil pan that came with my engine. I was going to with a stock replacement but went with one from a Durango instead. It had an oil baffle and looks sleeker. Also the oil drain is at a better spot. The pickup tube was different but I needed a new one as the old one clogs easy.
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Great info, thanks for sharing this. It's bound to help someone else.
 
Then I tried to make a y-pipe for the first time. I bought two 2.5" bend kits from Jegs that had all the bend angles....then cut, weld and test fitted...it took a week. I used HVAC tape to seal the ends and used my wet/dry vacuum to blow air to check for leaks.


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I'll update this with a part number later. But my stock slave cylinder didn't work. It wouldn't engage the clutch. I saw somewhere that there was a metal plate/spacer on the slave cylinder that you can remove. There was and I did that and that got the clutch working but it didn't seem good enough. I found on another forum that an earlier jeep had a longer rod in it. I got one from eBay (CS2259 -part number) for $17 and pulled the longer rod. There's cheaper options but this was quickest for me.


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At some point I thought that my engine was mounted wrong because I didn't have as much space as everyone else. But it was because my swap radiator is thick and I went with electric fans that are thick. But I went with a 2 speed fan out of a Volvo and used the Volvo relay that came with it. The only wiring I needed to do was power, ground, high speed, and low speed. I used an adapter in the upper radiator hose with a BMW dual temp switch. I couldn't get the fan to fit closer and not touch the water pump. I had to cut and hammer in two fan vents then I took a file to the water pump hub with the engine running.


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This is the only pic that i have. But You can see the Volvo relay next to the radiator cap. It just clipped on to the radiator. I got a cheap overflow bottle off eBay for $20 as i couldn't find a stock or stock looking option to fit. I later painted it black and ran the hose behind the grille.

For the power wire, i ran it into the fuse box and added a resetting breaker then a wire to the main power junction. To keep the fan from running with the car off, I added a mini relay to the ground wire going to the dual temp switch. I used a spare ignition wire from the C104 plug to switch the relay. With the ignition off it stops the temp switch from grounding.

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This is after I got it going. Had one of my friends do a light test drive. Only got it to 3rd before having to let off of it. I haven't driven a TJ with a 2.5l or 4.0l but this one with the 4.10 gears hauls....

 
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This is after I got it going. Had one of my friends do a light test drive. Only got it to 3rd before having to let off of it. I haven't driven a TJ with a 2.5l or 4.0l but this one with the 4.10 gears hauls....

So sick! Congrats! When I get my LJR next year my first mod will be a 5.7 HEMI. The magnums are great options for the older TJs.

Did you or the PO do the intake manifold gasket fix? That can seriously hinder performance and gas mileage if not delt with.
 
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So sick! Congrats! When I get my LJR next year my first mod will be a 5.7 HEMI. The magnums are great options for the older TJs.

Did you or the PO do the intake manifold gasket fix? That can seriously hinder performance and gas mileage if not delt with.

Yeah, my engine was a 98. I got an intake from the junkyard from a 01 that didn't have the center divider and better vacuum port locations. Then I got an aluminum plenum plate off eBay for $54 and 4 hole injectors.

I think this Jeep is going to my wife. And I may try to find me one to setup like you are or an LS depending on what I find.
 
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