Questions about shock travel and bump stops

Lilnuts

TJ Enthusiast
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I have a 2005 LJ Rubi with what I think is a BDS 3(ish) lift with the crappy shocks that come with the kit. The Jeep has BDS arms but I don't know about the springs, I assume they are BDS.
So I ordered a set of new Rancho RS9000 shocks that are 2" longer(ish) then the stock length ( I've read).
When to install them today and they are 1" shorter in the rear and 1" longer in the front then the crappy kit shocks.

When I remove the springs and lower the axle the rear shock length is almost perfect. When I raise the axle the shock travel limits how far the axle will travel upward. The axle with the shock disconnected will go another 2" until it hits the jounce stops (which I don't know if it is the stock jounce stop or not.

So it is better to have more up travel (the tires do clear) but that would stress the shock when the axle was unweighted, that's what I would have with the stock length shock.
Or put a 2-1/2" longer bump stop and give up the travel when fully compressed? That's what I have with the 2" longer shocks.

Finally, what is a good bump stop replacement.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Jim In Colorado
 
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Paging @jjvw - he knows a lot about cycling suspension and up down bias. A few things I can help with - ensure your bump stops are there to save your shocks. Don’t let your shocks be limiting up travel as that will destroy them over time.
 
remove the springs, but then put the tires back on. Then cycle your axle again. If your tires aren't into the fenders but your on the bumps, then you can remove some bumpstop.
 
Generally, the bump stops set the upper limit to travel before damage occurs. The loose coils are about where the useful limit to down is. Your shock options fit within that space. Aim for an overall travel that is split ~50/50. Addition bump stop to protect the shocks might be needed if the shocks become the first limit to up travel.
 
It seems to me the amount of shock travel is limiting how much suspension travel our Jeeps can have. Is there a shock(s) that have max travel per the design of the shock. I understand you can't get 12" of travel out of a 24" shock. Are there any shock builders that strive to reach that point?
 
It seems to me the amount of shock travel is limiting how much suspension travel our Jeeps can have. Is there a shock(s) that have max travel per the design of the shock. I understand you can't get 12" of travel out of a 24" shock. Are there any shock builders that strive to reach that point?

Yes and no. In a way the 6-pack shock by metal cloak offers more travel than possible by a traditional type by using 6 cylinders and opposing pistons. A 15” compressed length 6 pack stretches to 31” extended. But the problem is they are a gimmick in the softest terms and most experience them leaking oil after only a few years of moderate use. So yes, there is a shock. Is it better than a traditional outboard approach or a good shock in general? No.
 
Moving the shock mounts is the way to increase travel. The practical limits on stock axles is 11" front, 12" rear. Getting more useful travel becomes increasingly difficult after that.
 
I have seen the six-pack shock and agree the longevity is in question. Is seems the only real way to keep the travel without stressing the shocks is to raise the upper mounts. That would allow you to run longer shocks with more travel.
 
I have seen the six-pack shock and agree the longevity is in question. Is seems the only real way to keep the travel without stressing the shocks is to raise the upper mounts. That would allow you to run longer shocks with more travel.

Raise the upper. Lower the lower. Some of either. Do whatever combination that minimizes the bump stop extension and increases the overall travel to it's reasonable limits.
 
@Lilnuts

Bumping for shock only with the rancho 2.5 (RS55239) I was able to use 1.5" bumps. When I was doing my suspension cycling @jjvw ,along with others, helped me immensely. The main thing I did wrong was I was not allowing the other side of the axle to fully droop. The difference between full droop and the way I was doing it was large.

Here is the link if you care to read the process I went through
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/track-bar-and-tie-rod-what-hits-what-doesnt.4665/page-4
 
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