Questions about upgrading my 97 TJ to run 35s

gte811f

New Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2020
Messages
16
Location
Atlanta, Georgia
I’ve been purchasing parts for my 97 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 3-speed auto for a while now. I’m getting close to pulling the trigger on the install.

I pulled the build sheet and it states I have 3.07 gears and 32RH transmission Dana 35 rear.

HERES THE GOAL!

—-I want to run 35“ mud terrain tires because I just love the look. I want to have moderate off-road capability. No rock climbing. And, I‘d like to have good acceleration.

Here’s what I’ve purchased so far:

——3.5” Rubicon Express Short Arm Lift Kit with lower and upper adjustable control arms

——1” motor mount lift for the 1.25” body lift I plan to purchase

——Rancho RS9000XL series adjustable shocks with the Rancho 5000 Steering stabilizer

Heres what I’m considering purchasing and would like your feedback:

——Advance Adapters SYE with Tom Woods drive shaft

——Revolution Super 35 rear axle kit 30 spline

——4.56 re-gear front and rear (manufacturer suggestions?)

——35” KM3’s

——JKS 1.25” body lift

——Black Magic Brake Pads

——Borgeson steering shaft

——Not sure about the steering box upgrade (I think i heard of using a Durango steering box?)

——Lockers? I just can’t make up my mind. I know I want lockers that I can engage myself but ARB, Eaton, Detroit, etc. I just don’t know.

Again, this Jeep is for looks and moderate off roading. Not a DD. Just used on the weekends. I plan on buying all the parts and taking to an installer to do the transformation all at once. Please provide me with any feedback or suggestions. I’ve been reading this forum for years and I hope I’ve done most of my home work.

317F7C02-8380-4571-A1DC-F09DCA20E4F1.jpeg
 
——JB Conversions Super Short SYE with Tom Woods Double Cardan drive shaft

——Revolution Super 35 rear axle kit 30 spline. (Buy it from the installer)

——4.88 re-gear front and rear (depending on transmission)

——35” KM3’s KO2’s load range C would serve you better, but if looks is what you’re going for then KM3’s

——Savvy 1.25” body lift

——Black Magic Big Brake Kit

——Borgeson steering shaft why?

——Not sure about the steering box upgrade (I think i heard of using a Durango steering box?) again why?

——Lockers? I just can’t make up my mind. I know I want lockers that I can engage myself but ARB, Eaton, Detroit, etc. I just don’t know. Eaton E-Lockers

just my $0.02
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: bobthetj03
——JB Conversions Super Short SYE with Tom Woods Double Cardan drive shaft

——Revolution Super 35 rear axle kit 30 spline

——4.88 re-gear front and rear (depending on transmission)

——35” KM3’s KO2’s load range C would serve you better, but if looks is what you’re going for then KM3’s

——Savvy 1.25” body lift

——Black Magic Big Brake Kit

——Borgeson steering shaft why?

——Not sure about the steering box upgrade (I think i heard of using a Durango steering box?) again why?

——Lockers? I just can’t make up my mind. I know I want lockers that I can engage myself but ARB, Eaton, Detroit, etc. I just don’t know. Eaton E-Lockers

just my $0.02
Thanks for the response. I have considered the 488’s just don’t want the RPMs too high on the interstate. Why Savvy? Can I do the brake kit with 15” wheels? Borgeson shaft to replace the slop between the existing upper and lower shaft. I can clearly see why it’s so loose. Bigger tires therefore beefier steering box is what I’ve heard over the years on this forum. Eaton is the one I’ve been leaning towards. Thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: DrDmoney
I was also collecting parts to take to an installer but either read or was given this good advice directly on the forum: for the gears and lockers let the installer purchase and charge you for it. If this doesn’t happen it can make warranty claims difficult (or impossible).

Your list looks pretty good though. Should prob add upgraded drag link and tie rod like Currie currectlync (I did ZJ parts to save a few bucks). You could wait and see if the steering box and shaft become an issue for you or not. I did ARB locker and like it but wish I had gone for the bigger compressor that can air up tires too. I liked the thought of OX locker since there weren't as many moving parts that could fail, but found a deal on ARB so I went that route.
 
Thanks for the response. I have considered the 488’s just don’t want the RPMs too high on the interstate. Why Savvy? Can I do the brake kit with 15” wheels? Borgeson shaft to replace the slop between the existing upper and lower shaft. I can clearly see why it’s so loose. Bigger tires therefore beefier steering box is what I’ve heard over the years on this forum. Eaton is the one I’ve been leaning towards. Thanks
Over the last 20 years I’ve got 163000 miles on 35’s with the same box no issues, if your steering is loose and the shaft is the problem then change it but you likely have issues with your tie rod ends, consider an upgrade to ZJ steering or Currie CurrectlLync.

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...it-Bearings-BBK-NDM15-AND-2-UNIT-BEARINGS.htm
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Ephry73 and AndyG
Might as well tummy tuck it since you’ll be getting a new driveshaft. I’ll also recommend you get the driveshaft SSYE combo from whomever you want to buy the shaft from.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BuildBreakRepeat
Here’s what I’ve purchased so far:

——3.5” Rubicon Express Short Arm Lift Kit with lower and upper adjustable control arms:
Looks good! For 35's most of the experts reccomend 4 inches of lift with a 1 inch body lift; but the 1/2 inch shouldnt be too much of an issue; especially if you are only doing moderate offroading. Be sure to dial in your bumpstops accordingly.

——1” motor mount lift for the 1.25” body lift I plan to purchase: Out of curiosity; did you get a 1-inch puck that goes between the motor mounts? Or single piece raised mounts? Some people have reported more engine vibrations when using a single piece replacement mount, so pucks are recommended.

——Rancho RS9000XL series adjustable shocks with the Rancho 5000 Steering stabilizer: Looks good

Heres what I’m considering purchasing and would like your feedback:

——Advance Adapters SYE with Tom Woods drive shaft
: Excellent choice

——Revolution Super 35 rear axle kit 30 spline:
Excellent choice

——4.56 re-gear front and rear (manufacturer suggestions?):
For the 32RH transmission this will work well. If you wanted to do be set up for some more demanding offroading down the road you might as well go with 4.88's. Especially because this is not a daily driver you don't have to worry about commuter gas mileage.

——35” KM3’s:
I've heard good things; let us know how they perform and last.

——JKS 1.25” body lift:
Already mentioned by others but get the Savvy 1.25" body lift. Its made of aluminum which doesn't compress and settle and eventually crack like a plastic kit will.

——Black Magic Brake Pads:
Excellent choice!

——Borgeson steering shaft:
Already mentioned as well; but get Currie's Currectlync. Its practically mandatory to beef up the full steering linkage system once you have 35's.

——Not sure about the steering box upgrade (I think i heard of using a Durango steering box?)
: Not really sure this is necessary; if your steering box is shot; get one; but theres not really an advantage.

——Lockers? I just can’t make up my mind. I know I want lockers that I can engage myself but ARB, Eaton, Detroit, etc. I just don’t know.


If you want selectable lockers: ARB, Eaton, (or Ox lockers; you didn't list them so I don't know if you already ruled them out).
Eaton lockers are the cheapest and the easiest to install and run. Just runs off of a 12v current and they simply work. They come highly recommended by many on the forum and John Currie (of Currie offroad) swears by them.

Ox Lockers are cable driven and will either have to be controlled by a long-throw cable shifter; or for an additional $180 per locker you get a small unit that pulls the shifter cable but is controlled by an electric switch. It comes out to like $1200 per locker. BUT they are very well engineered and come in more spline options than Eaton does (not really a factor for your case)

ARB will be the most expensive, but it might be sensible if you want an on-board air system. They have a long reputation and good customer service (I hear anyways). Its going to be over $1000 per locker plus $300+ for an air compressor.

Personally I'm gonna go with the Ox Lockers because I want a spline option that Eaton doesnt offer; but if I could; I would choose Eaton. Cheapest option; simplest operation, get Eaton lockers.

Just be sure to get bumpstops; and look into your swaybar options. Disconnecting links sway links for the front will give you a lot of flex; but the more expensive option (Currie Anti-Rock will give you flex but with more stability for more demanding offroading such as rock crawling.)
 
Dont get a durango box. They use bushings on the lower sector shaft instead of bearings. Meaning with 35s and the abuse of a solid front axle it wont last long. Rebuild yours or opt for a reman'd unit from NAPA. Or if your pockets are deep, PSC
 
  • Like
Reactions: Brian83
I would loose the Nerf Bars and add some real Rock Sliders and pick up a few inches of ground clearance for free
Loosen the nerf bars?
I'd just remove them altogether if going with sliders.

And I second afitzray97's recommendation of the bigger air compressor. Your build looks good and you may end up having some off-road fun after all where airing down comes in handy. Have fun with it!
 
I was also collecting parts to take to an installer but either read or was given this good advice directly on the forum: for the gears and lockers let the installer purchase and charge you for it. If this doesn’t happen it can make warranty claims difficult (or impossible).

Your list looks pretty good though. Should prob add upgraded drag link and tie rod like Currie currectlync (I did ZJ parts to save a few bucks). You could wait and see if the steering box and shaft become an issue for you or not. I did ARB locker and like it but wish I had gone for the bigger compressor that can air up tires too. I liked the thought of OX locker since there weren't as many moving parts that could fail, but found a deal on ARB so I went that route.
Thanks for the input
 
Over the last 20 years I’ve got 163000 miles on 35’s with the same box no issues, if your steering is loose and the shaft is the problem then change it but you likely have issues with your tie rod ends, consider an upgrade to ZJ steering or Currie CurrectlLync.

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...it-Bearings-BBK-NDM15-AND-2-UNIT-BEARINGS.htm
Good info. I’ll keep the box for now but I know the steering shaft is the culprit to the majority of the play. Thanks again
 
  • Like
Reactions: DrDmoney
I would loose the Nerf Bars and add some real Rock Sliders and pick up a few inches of ground clearance for free
I hate the nerf bars. I’ll check out the rock sliders but I really want something I can easily step on to get in the Jeep. I’m considering fabricating my own.
 
4.88 gears
Currie Currectlync steering components
Chromoly front axle shafts


Even if it’s for moderate wheeling and mostly looks you won’t regret at least a rear locker if you can afford it. One of the most useful upgrades you can make IMO.