Questions on reinstalling donor axle

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Finally about ready to put axle back on, about two months later than planned. I can't afford to waste any more time or have any more fuckups. Is this the best way to bolt it back on?

1) Position axle on motorcycle lift/jack under front end
2) Position springs on their respective seats (I forgot to mark which one was one which side )
3) Raise jack a little
4) Attach upper control arms
5) Attach track bar
6) Attach lower control arms
7) Attach shocks
8) Attach steering linkage
9) Put wheels back on
10) Gently lower so that the wheels are bearing weight
11) Torque down control arms and anything else loose
11) Reattach front driveshaft

Somewhere in there, I still need to refill the front pumpkin with gear oil. Is this a sound procedure or should I change the order at all? Sorry to reask this, I can't find my post on one of the FB groups about it.

 

[fizzlebottom]

Since you're reattaching everything, you'll probably have to muscle the whole thing a little to get all 4 control arms into position. You may have use a ratchet strap for this, as well as with the trackbar.

I think the only thing you missed is the sway bar end links. Don't forget to attach those.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Since you're reattaching everything, you'll probably have to muscle the whole thing a little to get all 4 control arms into position. You may have use a ratchet strap for this, as well as with the trackbar.

I think the only thing you missed is the sway bar end links. Don't forget to attach those.

Ah yeah, thanks for reminding me - I've got them ready. Unfortunately, one old one is still seized in the sway bar and I'll probably have to use a press to get it out. I wailed on it with a pickle fork and used a separator last week but it wouldn't budge.

My step by step sounds good though? Only think I'm concerned about is not having a spring compressor tool. I'm hoping I can get by without that.

Hoping to god that everything just works right once it's all together and attached.

 

[JMT]

I don't remember having to think it through much. I just put it under there with the coil springs and bolted it up. It will make sense as you go, just keep an eye on things. I didn't need a spring compressor or any other specialty tools besides a torque wrench. Keep everything loose till you get it on the ground and then torque down to spec.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

I don't remember having to think it through much. I just put it under there with the coil springs and bolted it up. It will make sense as you go, just keep an eye on things. I didn't need a spring compressor or any other specialty tools besides a torque wrench. Keep everything loose till you get it on the ground and then torque down to spec.

Sounds good, thanks.

 

[TrueTexas]

Didn't see "reattach brake lines" or "brake bleeding" on your list. I'm sure it's obvious but that is kind of critical

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Didn't see "reattach brake lines" or "brake bleeding" on your list. I'm sure it's obvious but that is kind of critical

I just strung up the calipers on my lower control arms and they've been hanging for about 2 months now. Wasn't really sure if I wanted to tackle that all now or later (but soon). The soft lines need to be replaced for sure at some point given that they're original. I've been so preoccupied with getting the axle together and installed that I kinda stopped thinking about what I want to/need to do after that. Brake system has been flushed recently but other than that, pads, rotors, soft lines, and calipers have mostly gone untouched.

 

[TrueTexas]

Cool. Just making sure. I started out rebuilding my calipers but when I received the wrong pistons, I learned you can buy rebuilt calipers for super cheap. Bought the better set and still only paid $40 for both (with discount code). Came with everything needed to install them. Pads were like $30 as well and rotors we're about $70 for the pair. For $140 you can have brand new brakes to go with that axle.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Cool. Just making sure. I started out rebuilding my calipers but when I received the wrong pistons, I learned you can buy rebuilt calipers for super cheap. Bought the better set and still only paid $40 for both (with discount code). Came with everything needed to install them. Pads were like $30 as well and rotors we're about $70 for the pair. For $140 you can have brand new brakes to go with that axle.

It is without a doubt next on my list. Once I do that and change the rear diff fluid, hopefully aint much else left to do besides drive it and enjoy it.

Like I said, hoping and praying that I add that gear oil to the front diff once it's on, fire it up, and everything that was swapped over runs smoothly

 

[Artsifrtsi]

Old trick my dad taught me... Connect track bar on frame, put into approximate position , leave axle end disconnected. Connect when all is load bearing. You can easily align it with help of someone turning steering wheel Slightly side to side.

 

[TrueTexas]

I have a similar project coming up that involves 2 rear axle swaps. I have 2 TJs and I want to move the Dana 44 from TJ #1 to TJ #2. I bought a Dana 35 and will pull the 44 and put the "new" Dana 35 on Jeep #2. Once I rebuild the Dana 44, I will pull the Dana 35 from Jeep #1 and put the Dana 44 on Jeep #1.

This way, both Jeeps are up and running all the time.

Definitely praying it all goes smoothly.

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Got the axle reattached by the control arms, pretty pleased about that.

When I go back to install the steering linkage, is there anything to be aware of as far as lining the steering wheel back up? The steering wheel has been turned upside down since I pulled everything off (about two months) and I seem to remember hearing you need to be careful not to damage the spring when you put it back together?

 

[Artsifrtsi]

Your trackbar looks too long to go to that added on upper mount. I think it's supposed to go to the mount hole below that one... The trackbar mount that the trackbar is resting on looks aftermarket to make a parallel bar, but requires a custom/adjustable trackbar.

I could be wrong...

 

[Not_Invented_Here_]

Your trackbar looks too long to go to that added on upper mount. I think it's supposed to go to the mount hole below that one... The trackbar mount that the trackbar is resting on looks aftermarket to make a parallel bar, but requires a custom/adjustable trackbar.

I could be wrong...

It's resting on the steering stabilizer mount, isn't it? I'm leaving the TB to attach last per your (smart) suggestion. It's just a couple cm off right now

 

[Artsifrtsi]

Yes, stabilizer bracket