These are just post on a forum. I'm looking for some links to some facts that stock aluminum/plastic is stronger and will out last all aluminum.
You have anything like that?
Radiator Leak... Need replacement recommendation
- Thread starter G-Whiz
- Start date
You have anything like that?
I don't think anyone is disputing that an aluminum tank may outlast a composite tank. I'm certainly not. I am disputing everything else though including your assertion that aluminum tanks add to the cooling which is just wrong.
Tj04
TJ Enthusiast
I'm disputing the longevity of an all aluminum vs composite mopar one.
I guess does the fact that tons of forum guys have bought aluminum radiators and most shit out after a year or two eithier leaked or cracked not count? I have not found one post where someone said an aftermarket lasted longer than a mopar one.
If the plastic is worse why does it last 3x longer. That's kind of my argument. I want the radiator that lasts the longest and cools best. And I have found not one radiator even from good brands that has outlived a mopar one. If there is one I'll be sure to be intested and check it out.
@mrblaine have you found any aftermarket ones that last longer than mopar ones? I sure haven't seen any. If I'm wrong please correct me.
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Tj04
TJ Enthusiast
@TJ John from my research I found the all aluminum tended to crack off-road and didn't have the give/flex needed and couldn't hold up to the vibrations of off-road use where the plastic did. I'm sure you're aware TJs tend to vibrate more than most cars in probably all situations. That's where most of the cracking I read about occurred. For street only use im sure an all aluminum would be fine and may last longer. But there is a lot of hard to despite evidence the mopar ones last longest. Of course it's forums so take it with a grain of salt. But I for one have no reason to lie on a forum and many guys feel the same way.
Can't wait to be a supporting member so I can have at the bottom: warning. I'm not an expert. Just some guy or something like that.
Can't wait to be a supporting member so I can have at the bottom: warning. I'm not an expert. Just some guy or something like that.
Well, next spring will be 3 years I guess time will tell. I don't doubt there are some junk radiator companies out there. I just hope Northern isn't one of them. I have heard bad thinks about some companies but all in all when it comes to all aluminum radiators most all I find is that they are more efficient and stronger.
I've searched Google, Youtube, and looked at reviews on Amazon. now there are always 1 or 2 people with a bad experience but mostly good reviews.
I've searched Google, Youtube, and looked at reviews on Amazon. now there are always 1 or 2 people with a bad experience but mostly good reviews.
I have no way of knowing that answer. I just replaced the factory radiator on a 97 the other day. I suspect it was the original because it was a two row core. That's 20 years out of an OEM. We only replaced it because it came in with No AC and it left with AC. I warned the owner that the additional heat burden could tax the system especially since the coolant was muddy and hadn't been maintained. Sure enough he was back in a couple of days and we had him do a drive around flush and we fixed it with OEM parts.
In order for me to know that the aftermarket aluminum is longer lasting it would have to last longer than the 10-12 year average I see with OEM and I'm not around enough of them to know that.
Tj04
TJ Enthusiast
Fair enough. I feel like I've seen Jerry and several others experts on other forums say no aftermarket one has lasted longer out of more than 10 popular aftermarket ones tested or something like that. I don't feel like searching thru all the threads to find it.
Tj04
TJ Enthusiast
But hey as long as your Jeep is working fine that's what matters. There are too many junk radiator companies out there. And I hope Northern isn't. One guy has a thread from a few weeks ago about it and it turns out they are made in China so he didn't get it. But like I said I don't care where it's made or what it's made of if it does the job and lasts 10 years or so and I haven't found any all aluminum ones that have been reviewed that have lasted anywhere near that long. Seems a lot of early failures for OEM radiators is when people buy "OE" or "OEM style" ones that are like crown or some other brand that is the same style as the OEM one but it's not OEM.
3 years isn't a bad start though! Most I've read about shit out before that.
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I try to do as much research as possible before buying something for my Jeep. I'm not rich so if I'm going to spend a lot of money I want to know it's worth it. I bet I spent a year researching a winch talking with different 4X4 shops and searching the web before I decided to buy a Warn. I did the same thing when I bought different headlights and off road lights front bumper and my radiator. I'm not saying I haven't made any bad buys but I did the best I could to not buy junk. I'm not the kind of guy that jumps on the first thing that sounds good. If this radiator is junk you can bet I'll be all over this company!
I don't know, but the OP posted this on page 1 of this thread:
"mine lasted 11 years...
Okay... after checking to see where Northern Radiators are manufactured, wasn't comfortable that they "may not be made in the USA"; so cancelled my order, and
Went with "Mopar 5503 7653AC, Radiator" and paid the xtra $18"
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Like I said John if yours works good!just the OEM ones are proven that's why your getting this crap about suggesting something else. I truly hope yours outlives my OEM one. No sarcasm. When it passes the 5 year mark write a good review. But until it's at least that old I don't findisernit actually tested.
I love aftermarket stuff. But it has to be actually better then OEM for me to want it.
Well said. Once you've got 5+ years and an excessive amount of miles on it, let me know how it's doing.
Until then, you'll have to convince me why I should replace a leaking radiator with another OE radiator that will last at least 10+ years and 100k+ miles.
That's all we are saying... it's proven to work, and it works damn well. In addition to that, an OE replacement radiator isn't really that expensive.
Tj04
TJ Enthusiast
I may have misinterpreted @glwood 's post. Can't remember everything I comment on
But getting the response "may not be made in the us" would turn me off from it too. I thought someone said they were in fact made in China. As a fellow MN'er if it actually is made here in Mn that's neat. There are a lot of shady practices within companies. Forge or cast parts here, ship them to China to be machined, then ship back for assembly or Made in China assembled here etc. Not saying that's what that company does but there are a lot of places that do stuff like that then claim 100% made in the usAlso I think it's been proven just since it's made here doesn't make it any better. The cost cutting measures in this county are unbelievable.
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Over time you'll figure out that I am fairly unbiased when it comes to being brand specific for any reason except that something just works. I always try to see both sides of everything because you lose out on a lot of good opportunities to learn things if you don't.I may have misinterpreted @glwood 's post. Can't remember everything I comment on
Also I think it's been proven just since it's made here doesn't make it any better. The cost cutting measures in this county are unbelievable.
So, with that said, we put a US made Wizard cooling radiator in a rig (not for the faint of heart installation wise) and very shortly it started leaking. After many shenanigans, the customer finally threw in the towel, purchased a Northern and we swapped them out for each other. Upon receiving the Wizard back, we immediately got notification that it would not be covered under warranty due to some sludge in it.
That was after a series of emails telling him that the leaks could be due to things like core shell flex, electrolysis etc.
There was a small amount of sludge that we can't figure out the origin of in the lower hose neck. The leaks were at the top of the radiator on both sides in the rows of tubes. I've removed many factory radiators with sludge in them and none of them leaked. I can't even figure out how some sludge can cause a leak. We always do a system flush and the only thing I can come up with is he had an overheat issue and someone may have added a non compatible coolant but that should have really clogged up the whole system if that were an issue.
The Northern we put in place of the Wizard has been in there longer and more miles with no issues.
just to throw in my 0.02 about the plastic end caps...don't be so sure plastic was used to save money. Some of the engineered resins they use now are VERY expensive...to the point where its worth a cost analysis to see what is most economical while still delivering the proper specifications. Dodge ram outside rearview mirrors actually had Cast Magnesium brackets to attach it to the door, based on their specs. Cast Magnesium is pretty spendy, but it hit the right mix of weight, stiffness, and cost. I've used plastics that are actually stronger than cast aluminum. Yes, that is a fact. You can do a lot of cool stuff when you start mixing different fibers and additives to the mix. The plastic can actually cost MORE than the alternatives (aluminum in this case) but it satisfies more of the engineering specifications, so it gets the nod. Note: I don't know in this case if its actually true or not...My experience is not with radiators. My only point is that selecting materials used on OEM parts is SO much more than is "A" cheaper than "B"
My OEM radiator lasted 13 years and 135K miles before the top split while on the way to Moab. Out of necessity, I purchased a aftermarket radiator to finish my journey. It's been a year and a half and 20K miles and no problems so far. Will keep you posted. There is truth to the health of your cooling system and the longevity of your radiator. 10K before my Moab trip I experienced warmer than normal cooling. Temp gauge was running above 210*. I put a leave in radiator cleaning system additive, ran it the heat cycles per instructions, flushed the crap out of the system, installed a OEM thermostat, and added the appropriate HOAT coolant. Temps came back to normal after this treatment. Prior to fixing this, the overflow res would bubble and puke coolant out, so I think the damage was already under way for my radiator, and thus finished it off.
Perhaps Mrblaine could answer this.
A common practice growing up and still to this day, as my vehicle cooling systems would start to age and develop a persistent leak,
I would reduce the poundage on the radiator cap which was very effective on my older vehicles.
My only theory was that this reduced the pressure in the cooling system which in return stopped a small leak.
Is this not a good practice as it does appear to prolong the life of the radiator.
My TJ sits with a 13lb cap on a 13yr old radiator.
A common practice growing up and still to this day, as my vehicle cooling systems would start to age and develop a persistent leak,
I would reduce the poundage on the radiator cap which was very effective on my older vehicles.
My only theory was that this reduced the pressure in the cooling system which in return stopped a small leak.
Is this not a good practice as it does appear to prolong the life of the radiator.
My TJ sits with a 13lb cap on a 13yr old radiator.
crackedcornish
TJ Enthusiast
reducing the pressure in the system lowers the point at which the water will start to boil...not a good thing