Rancho RS5000X Shock Question

Bruce20

TJ Enthusiast
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Pennsylvania
I have the RS5000x shocks and was wondering if any of you guys running them know what the compressed length is. I want to set up my bumpstop, so I don’t bottom them out, but they are already installed. Thanks.


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I have the RS5000x shocks and was wondering if any of you guys running them know what the compressed length is. I want to set up my bumpstop, so I don’t bottom them out, but they are already installed. Thanks.


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The 5000x shocks come in many lengths.

To know what the required bump stop extension is, you need to remove the coils, disconnect the sway bar, remove the soft jounces, and cycle the axle with the tires on until you find the first point of interference. This may be compressed shocks or tires hitting sheet metal or something else.
 
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The 5000x shocks come in many lengths.

To know what the required bump stop extension is, you need to remove the coils, disconnect the sway bar, remove the soft jounces, and cycle the axle with the tires on until you find the first point of interference. This may be compressed shocks or tires hitting sheet metal or something else.

Aw, man. Those coils are an absolute pain to get out and back it. Why do I have to take out the coils and disconnect the sway bar. I would have the sway at connected and the coils in if I went off-roading. I have the 2-4” shocks.


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Aw, man. Those coils are an absolute pain to get out and back it. Why do I have to take out the coils and disconnect the sway bar. I would have the sway at connected and the coils in if I went off-roading. I have the 2-4” shocks.


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Bump stops are intended to limit up travel in order to prevent parts from crashing into other parts. Removing the coils, jounces and disconnecting the sway bar is what allows you to mimic the dynamic loads that the suspension experiences on the road during everyday driving. Nothing else allows you to do this.
 
Bump stops are intended to limit up travel in order to prevent parts from crashing into other parts. Removing the coils, jounces and disconnecting the sway bar is what allows you to mimic the dynamic loads that the suspension experiences on the road during everyday driving. Nothing else allows you to do this.

But those parts are in place when you encounter those loads. Why can’t I jack up the one side with a jack and get a bumpstop reading like that?


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But those parts are in place when you encounter those loads. Why can’t I jack up the one side with a jack and get a bumpstop reading like that?


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Those parts may be in place while driving, but how do you know what is hitting when you hear or feel the crash?

If you jack up one side, you are very unlikely to be able to compress the spring to that first point of interference. Additionally, you absolutely will not be able to bring the axle up to full bump on both sides the way a speed bump will.
 
Those parts may be in place while driving, but how do you know what is hitting when you hear or feel the crash?

If you jack up one side, you are very unlikely to be able to compress the spring to that first point of interference. Additionally, you absolutely will not be able to bring the axle up to full bump on both sides the way a speed bump will.

I’ll just do 2” in the front and 1” in the rear. Then if I hear a crash, I will add more bump. It will take me 3 hours to do a full cycle.


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Too much is better than not enough. Not enough is as good as nothing.
 
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And what size tire? Bump stops are often determined by tire size and compressed shock length.

I’m going with 33s. I did not order them yet because I’m still trying to decide what tire I want.


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Front compressed length is 14.43
Rear is 13.688. So I would need 1” of bump to keep the shocks from bottoming out. Correct?

Edit: maybe 1.5” in the front.


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Those shocks run long, I run them myself with a 2" BDS coil and .75" spacer which nets close to 3". I needed to run a 2" extension in front and 1.75" in the rear (although I left the rear at 2" instead of cutting off 1/4"). That is to prevent the shock from bottoming out, no tire clearance issue being on 31's.

FYI, 2" is not enough for 33's. You will need more than 1.5" of bump stop to run them and not smash your fenders.
 
Those shocks run long, I run them myself with a 2" BDS coil and .75" spacer which nets close to 3". I needed to run a 2" extension in front and 1.75" in the rear (although I left the rear at 2" instead of cutting off 1/4"). That is to prevent the shock from bottoming out, no tire clearance issue being on 31's.

FYI, 2" is not enough for 33's. You will need more than 1.5" of bump stop to run them and not smash your fenders.

I don’t plan on off roading this hard. I’m mainly going for looks for now and enough clearance for snow. I could always do a coil spacer. So probably 2 inches all around or 2.5 for bumpstop?


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I don’t plan on off roading this hard. I’m mainly going for looks for now and enough clearance for snow. I could always do a coil spacer. So probably 2 inches all around or 2.5 for bumpstop?


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Hard to say. As big of a pita as it may be, you will have to cycle the suspension, shocks in, no springs, tires on, and see where you are. Believe me, you do not want to hit a dip in the road and take a tire into the fender. Many seem to think if they stay "on road" they can get away with shortcuts. You do not want to do that. Be safe, do it the right way.
 
I don’t plan on off roading this hard. I’m mainly going for looks for now and enough clearance for snow. I could always do a coil spacer. So probably 2 inches all around or 2.5 for bumpstop?


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Do you plan on driving around every speed bump or pothole that you encounter?
 
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This is 33s on a 2” BB. I’ll have more lift than this. It looks good to me proper bump and I’ll be fine on potholes and speed bumps and yes, I avoid every pothole I can. I take speed bumps slow too.

IMG_2356.jpg



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