Rapid Air Down Valves

I start installing my coyotes and my tires are at the target by the time I get back to the one I started with.

I did watch this the other day and thought they were interesting but I wouldn’t choose these over my coyotes.


I watched that video hoping she would take off the flannel and jump up and down a bit. Well that never happened, so mostly wasted time.

Though she did use a hi lift to unseat a tire bead. I'm still wondering what the thought process on that was. Bottom of jack on the side wall of the tire, then jack the bumper until the bead unseats. I watched wondering if she would ruin the side wall.
 
I watched that video hoping she would take off the flannel and jump up and down a bit. Well that never happened, so mostly wasted time.

Though she did use a hi lift to unseat a tire bead. I'm still wondering what the thought process on that was. Bottom of jack on the side wall of the tire, then jack the bumper until the bead unseats. I watched wondering if she would ruin the side wall.
I’ve seen people use that method to debead a tire many times.
 
I’ve seen people use that method to debead a tire many times.

I have a whole new thread on it.
20201219_161407.jpg
 
I'm the new kid on the block as far as Jeeps go - but wouldn't the Coyotes be better because they're a controlled, pre-set device? If I overshoot my deflate like she did, I then have to add air and any time benefit would be lost it seems to me...
 
I start installing my coyotes and my tires are at the target by the time I get back to the one I started with.

I did watch this the other day and thought they were interesting but I wouldn’t choose these over my coyotes.

Socks and Crocs, That's how I normally roll when I'm working on my vehicles
 
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I'm the new kid on the block as far as Jeeps go - but wouldn't the Coyotes be better because they're a controlled, pre-set device? If I overshoot my deflate like she did, I then have to add air and any time benefit would be lost it seems to me...

An ideal setup might be the way WSS has his installed as a secondary valve stem. Put the gauge on the regular valve and drain the air with the rapid valve. Open and close until you get where you want to be.
 
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I'm the new kid on the block as far as Jeeps go - but wouldn't the Coyotes be better because they're a controlled, pre-set device? If I overshoot my deflate like she did, I then have to add air and any time benefit would be lost it seems to me...
And when you need a lower or higher psi due to different terrain or conditions?
 
I'm the new kid on the block as far as Jeeps go - but wouldn't the Coyotes be better because they're a controlled, pre-set device? If I overshoot my deflate like she did, I then have to add air and any time benefit would be lost it seems to me...

That happens with the ARB (and clones) too. Real easy to let too much out tying your shoes and have to do the walk of shame to get the air hose.
 
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So no complaints or horror stories?
One "aww shucks". My mistake. When I let the air down, we had loud music playing and the engine on. I did not hear the very air hissing. About ten mins later:

IMG_9402(2).jpg


The exit valve is more like a spool on a hydraulic valve, "off" or no flow is not "tight" but closed. the outer slide moves back and forth as it is threaded to cover the oring. If you do not get it in the correct spot, it will leak slow. It is evident when it is doing it by the sound. So, now I shut everything off and enjoy the solitude LOL.

The threading was simple with the provided tap. If I did it now, I would put a tight oring on the tap at a "close to" depth and move the oring up a little at a time to hit the right depth. I did steel wheels, which does not give much meat for a NPT tap. I added blue loctite too. They never leak. Between trips, the PSi is always the same. I run 30psi to and from the trails. I might see 28psi if they sit for a month or so.

IMG_3222_zpsvir1ojuf.jpg
 
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One "aww shucks". My mistake. When I let the air down, we had loud music playing and the engine on. I did not hear the very air hissing. About ten mins later:



The exit valve is more like a spool on a hydraulic valve, "off" or no flow is not "tight" but closed. the outer slide moves back and forth as it is threaded to cover the oring. If you do not get it in the correct spot, it will leak slow. It is evident when it is doing it by the sound. So, now I shut everything off and enjoy the solitude LOL.

The threading was simple with the provided tap. If I did it now, I would put a tight oring on the tap at a "close to" depth and move the oring up a little at a time to hit the right depth. I did steel wheels, which does not give much meat for a NPT tap. I added blue loctite too. They never leak. Between trips, the PSi is always the same. I run 30psi to and from the trails. I might see 28psi if they sit for a month or so.

Good info, thanks! So if you bought new wheels, would you install the valves again?