RC / Barnes double shear track bar?

[Dylpickle200]

No one is disputing the existence of a range of motion. A problem only exists when the range of motion is exceeded. You can find if your setup exceeds the range of motion by cycling the axle without springs installed.

That’s exactly what I did. I have exceeded range of motion. That’s why I’m going to a double shear. That’s the entire point of this post. I already knew I needed the double shear. You’re the one who kept saying I didn’t I just was asking which bracket would work better for my double shear setup

 

[cmoore]

How else can it be interpreted?

I should have said:

Ive seen enough balljoint and even kingpin failures in my life to not like the idea of a powered ram leveraging/working against XJ30 outers because I just dont personally trust the outers to hold up. I also don't see the need for a hydro assist to take load off a trackbar that is working (other than the OP saying his uptravel is binding/limited). And from a steering perspective on 35s (about the HP30’s limit imho) a good pump and sg400 will turn the tires just fine (if/when a ram is needed for any reason later, it's easy to add). If the OP is tearing, breaking or showing fatique, then sure, looking at redistributing the load is a great idea but I'd still rather have a different axle.

OP didnt ask for any of that, he said his Tbar limits his uptravel, not that he's having durability issues. He also said a bigger axle is in the end game plan so almost everything is gonna change as soon as that happens.

I can count on one finger in ~30 years how many aftermarket double sheer track bar mounts I've seen tear off on a rig with a Dana 30/44 and 35's or smaller. So I can only comment to my own experiences. I have seen way more front axle failures on trail (again not due to hydro assist) and those reduce the fun factor especially in swampy, root over rock timber crawling.

 

[Dylpickle200]

Some folks achieve 12" travel, 6" up, 6" down with a Currie track bar, stock frame mount, and no binding. And they wheel trails as hard as a TJ on 35s can do.

So why does the OP need a double-shear track bar to achieve what seems to be less than 12" travel? Why is his track bar binding? Let's see the pictures and details.

I kept asking the guy claiming to get 6” up 6” down to show he’s fully using the 6” upward travel and tell us how much bump stop he has set and he would not. I’m at 6” uptravel my shock does not bottom out at full flex I have 3” of bump stops. If I wasn’t at work I’d show you where my bar binds. I have a jks not a rock jock. I have Currie dual rate 4” lift springs and I have 5.75” of up travel. Really 6” if I account for crushing the rubber bushing on my fox 2.0 shocks.

Your Facebook example is saying his joint is hitting the axle. Not that he has run out of travel. Instead of solving the interference he tossed in too much bump.

I can say from experience that the Currie track bar doesn't bind with 2" bump extension. Possibly less.

I'm not seeing your spring heights and shock travel in this discussion. What are they?

 

[Dylpickle200]

Your Facebook example is saying his joint is hitting the axle. Not that he has run out of travel. Instead of solving the interference he tossed in too much bump.

I can say from experience that the Currie track bar doesn't bind with 2" bump extension. Possibly less.

I'm not seeing your spring heights and shock travel in this discussion. What are they?

In the Facebook example he said “ my pivot point is at full flex” then posted the picture of the joint being full flexed. Again this post is not an argument of could I achieve less bump stop or do I need a double shear. It was simply a “which bracket is the better buy” post

 

[Dylpickle200]

I should have said:

Ive seen enough balljoint and even kingpin failures in my life to not like the idea of a powered ram leveraging/working against XJ30 outers because I just dont personally trust the outers to hold up. I also don't see the need for a hydro assist to take load off a trackbar that is working (other than the OP saying his uptravel is binding/limited). And from a steering perspective on 35s (about the HP30’s limit imho) a good pump and sg400 will turn the tires just fine (if/when a ram is needed for any reason later, it's easy to add). If the OP is tearing, breaking or showing fatique, then sure, looking at redistributing the load is a great idea but I'd still rather have a different axle.

OP didnt ask for any of that, he said his Tbar limits his uptravel, not that he's having durability issues. He also said a bigger axle is in the end game plan so almost everything is gonna change as soon as that happens.

I can count on one finger in ~30 years how many aftermarket double sheer track bar mounts I've seen tear off on a rig with a Dana 30/44 and 35's or smaller. So I can only comment to my own experiences. I have seen way more front axle failures on trail (again not due to hydro assist) and those reduce the fun factor especially in swampy, root over rock timber crawling.

BRO THANK YOU LMFAOOO YOU ACTUALLY GET IT

 

[Rickyd]

In the Facebook example he said “ my pivot point is at full flex” then posted the picture of the joint being full flexed. Again this post is not an argument of could I achieve less bump stop or do I need a double shear. It was simply a “which bracket is the better buy” post

No,He said "he had to add 3" bump because my jj barrel became the bump". There are a few ways to deal with that that don't limit up travel. He didn't say anything about needing 3" bumps just to use a jks trackbar.

If that was true there would be a lot more people with 3" bumps and jks trackbars. It just isn't the case.

You were asked how you knew your bar was maxed out and you said it was because you have hilines? You also said "Everything I’ve ever read says a min of 3” of bump stop is required to prevent the bar from binding" so again,did you actually flex it out without springs to see?

 

[Rickyd]

OP didnt ask for any of that, he said his Tbar limits his uptravel, not that he's having durability issues. He also said a bigger axle is in the end game plan so almost everything is gonna change as soon as that happens.

He was asked how he determined that he's the only guy on this forum who needs 3" bumps to run a jks trackbar with a Dana 30. And still hasn't answered it.

That is a valid question. Especially if it's all going to get changed for bigger axles later. That would mean running a third setup at that time.

We are looking past his initial question.which is basically "how far down from the frame is the barnes pivot hole compared to the factory pivot point" since a call to barnes can answer that. And addressing the other assertions being made,like why it's needed in the first place.

 

[Dylpickle200]

No,He said "he had to add 3" bump because my jj barrel became the bump". There are a few ways to deal with that that don't limit up travel. He didn't say anything about needing 3" bumps just to use a jks trackbar.

If that was true there would be a lot more people with 3" bumps and jks trackbars. It just isn't the case.

You were asked how you knew your bar was maxed out and you said it was because you have hilines? You also said "Everything I’ve ever read says a min of 3” of bump stop is required to prevent the bar from binding" so again,did you actually flex it out without springs to see?

You didn’t read his full post I quoted him directly I can’t help you with that. I said I knew it was maxed out because I can physically see it in a bind now that I’ve gone to hi lines. I had 3” of bump stop to prevent my 35s from contacting stock fenders. I now have hi lines and a 1.25” body lift for a tummy tuck so while resetting my bump stops it is apparent that my track bar is binding if I flex full up on passanger side. I also contact my dif if I go full up on drivers side. So my solution is 1. Go double shear so I can have more up travel with no bind on passanger. And 2. Go with the rough country bar that has a substantial concave to clear the dif. None of what I’m saying is wrong or crazy Dave from jeep west deals with this all day with his custom suspension set up. I literally can’t go on Facebook without seeing him say it at least once a day. I’ve never seen someone run a Jks or curry track bar with less than 3” of bump stop in person or online so I don’t get where you’re saying that so few people do.

 

[Apparition]

None of what I’m saying is wrong or crazy Dave from jeep west deals with this all day with his custom suspension set up.

Just an FYI, MrBlaine also deals with suspension setups on TJ's daily.

You can search threads for thoughts on Jeep West here.

 

[jjvw]

That’s exactly what I did. I have exceeded range of motion. That’s why I’m going to a double shear. That’s the entire point of this post. I already knew I needed the double shear. You’re the one who kept saying I didn’t I just was asking which bracket would work better for my double shear setup

What is your shock travel bias from ride height?

 

[cmoore]

He was asked how he determined that he's the only guy on this forum who needs 3" bumps to run a jks trackbar with a Dana 30. And still hasn't answered it.

That is a valid question. Especially if it's all going to get changed for bigger axles later. That would mean running a third setup at that time.

We are looking past his initial question.which is basically "how far down from the frame is the barnes pivot hole compared to the factory pivot point" since a call to barnes can answer that. And addressing the other assertions being made,like why it's needed in the first place.

IDK man, he said he cycled the suspension and it binds. (shrug) He asked if the Barnes was decent bracket. Now he needs hydro assist and psycho therapy.
I think we should just let him do his thing, that bracket is not going to hurt anyone. Maybe when it's done he'll update us.

 

[Rickyd]

You didn’t read his full post I quoted him directly I can’t help you with that. I said I knew it was maxed out because I can physically see it in a bind now that I’ve gone to hi lines. I had 3” of bump stop to prevent my 35s from contacting stock fenders. I now have hi lines and a 1.25” body lift for a tummy tuck so while resetting my bump stops it is apparent that my track bar is binding if I flex full up on passanger side. I also contact my dif if I go full up on drivers side. So my solution is 1. Go double shear so I can have more up travel with no bind on passanger. And 2. Go with the rough country bar that has a substantial concave to clear the dif. None of what I’m saying is wrong or crazy Dave from jeep west deals with this all day with his custom suspension set up. I literally can’t go on Facebook without seeing him say it at least once a day. I’ve never seen someone run a Jks or curry track bar with less than 3” of bump stop in person or online so I don’t get where you’re saying that so few people do.

First paragraph second sentence clearly states the jj is hitting the truss on uptravel(which isn't necessary anyway).

First paragraph last sentence talks about possibly reaching end of travel. The picture shows pass side on downtravel. Neither of these scenarios is what you claim your issue is.

If you have a Dana 30 cover hitting the trackbar either 1) you have a huge cover that isn't needed and or 2) the axle needs moved back slightly.

I don't need to read Facebook to know the assertion that 3" bumps are necessary for a Currie bar is bullshit. I have a Dana 44,Currie bar and just under 2" bump without a bind on pass side uptravel.

The easiest thing for you to do would be to adjust your axles position,then put the jks bar in a press and adjust its angles slightly if you actually have an issue.

 

[Rickyd]

IDK man, he said he cycled the suspension and it binds. (shrug) He asked if the Barnes was decent bracket. Now he needs hydro assist and psycho therapy.
I think we should just let him do his thing, that bracket is not going to hurt anyone. Maybe when it's done he'll update us.

"My only concern is wether or not it maintains the factory height of the frame side mount location I don’t want to mess up my track bar / drag link locations."

That was his question. Again,a call to barnes can get the dimension for him.

Nobody thinks he needs therapy or even cares what happens to his jeep if he doesn't hurt himself or others with the mods.Don't be dramatic.

We are asking specific questions to walk him through his problem. There is no reason not to

 

[Dylpickle200]

Just an FYI, MrBlaine also deals with suspension setups on TJ's daily.

You can search threads for thoughts on Jeep West here.

Mr Blaine never told me anything I didn’t already know - at least that I saw he just said his piece about using hydro assist on a Dana 30 with another user then asked me my thoughts and said I’m out. I’m not the biggest fan of Dave either I get into it with him on Facebook all the time. However what he says about this is valid and it’s what I’m experiencing. Other than that idk what to tell you. I’m not just some guy tinkering with a jeep I bought I’ve been modifying vehicles my whole life and am a process operator with engineering background at a chemical plant by trade so I’m confident in my assessment and my decision to move forward with the double shear set up. Whether yall agree that’s between you and god. Like I said the point of this post was which bracket had better positioning. Not about whether or not yall think I need it.

 

[Apparition]

Mr Blaine never told me anything I didn’t already know - at least that I saw he just said his piece about using hydro assist on a Dana 30 with another user then asked me my thoughts and said I’m out. I’m not the biggest fan of Dave either I get into it with him on Facebook all the time. However what he says about this is valid and it’s what I’m experiencing. Other than that idk what to tell you. I’m not just some guy tinkering with a jeep I bought I’ve been modifying vehicles my whole life and am a process operator with engineering background at a chemical plant by trade so I’m confident in my assessment and my decision to move forward with the double shear set up. Whether yall agree that’s between you and god. Like I said the point of this post was which bracket had better positioning. Not about whether or not yall think I need it.

I don't care what you do. Just wanted you to know you were talking with someone who designed one of the most desired lifts vs someone else who designed geo correction brackets.

 

[Dylpickle200]

First paragraph second sentence clearly states the jj is hitting the truss on uptravel(which isn't necessary anyway).

First paragraph last sentence talks about possibly reaching end of travel. The picture shows pass side on downtravel. Neither of these scenarios is what you claim your issue is.

If you have a Dana 30 cover hitting the trackbar either 1) you have a huge cover that isn't needed and or 2) the axle needs moved back slightly.

I don't need to read Facebook to know the assertion that 3" bumps are necessary for a Currie bar is bullshit. I have a Dana 44,Currie bar and just under 2" bump without a bind on pass side uptravel.

The easiest thing for you to do would be to adjust your axles position,then put the jks bar in a press and adjust its angles slightly if you actually have an issue.

I don't care what you do. Just wanted you to know you were talking with someone who designed one of the most desired lifts vs someone else who designed geo correction brackets.

I’m fully aware of who he is… that doesn’t make my track bar not bind at full flex…

 

[g.hayduke]

I’m fully aware of who he is… that doesn’t make my track bar not bind at full flex…

Why are you posting pictures of other people's rigs instead of your own?

 

[mrblaine]

You didn’t read his full post I quoted him directly I can’t help you with that. I said I knew it was maxed out because I can physically see it in a bind now that I’ve gone to hi lines. I had 3” of bump stop to prevent my 35s from contacting stock fenders. I now have hi lines and a 1.25” body lift for a tummy tuck so while resetting my bump stops it is apparent that my track bar is binding if I flex full up on passanger side. I also contact my dif if I go full up on drivers side. So my solution is 1. Go double shear so I can have more up travel with no bind on passanger. And 2. Go with the rough country bar that has a substantial concave to clear the dif. None of what I’m saying is wrong or crazy Dave from jeep west deals with this all day with his custom suspension set up. I literally can’t go on Facebook without seeing him say it at least once a day. I’ve never seen someone run a Jks or curry track bar with less than 3” of bump stop in person or online so I don’t get where you’re saying that so few people do.

The problem with you folk who don't know what they don't know is you tend to argue with those that do. For the sake of this discussion should it ever come up again, I did a little test for you to show you how full of shit most folks really are.
Rubi 44 front that I adjusted to 3" of bumpstop just for you. JJ front trackbar. This is maxed at full stuff with the axle centered.

Camera angle doesn't show the full number but it is 6 1/2" higher it is able to go, subtract 3" of bumpstop and you have another 3 1/2" of up left. If it isn't clear, I jacked it up to a hard full stuff, compressed the bumpstops down to 3", removed the trackbar, and then moved it up until it bound. You'll never get it that high, ever.

 

[mrblaine]

I’m fully aware of who he is… that doesn’t make my track bar not bind at full flex…

Mine doesn't, so there.

 

[g.hayduke]

I kept asking the guy claiming to get 6” up 6” down to show he’s fully using the 6” upward travel and tell us how much bump stop he has set and he would not.

Here you go:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/daily-driver-go-where-i-want-to-build.9410/