I asked him to measure this distance-
To be sure its the right one and didn't get an answer either
RD31 ARB locker install help (backlash)
- Thread starter KingCarGuyZ
- Start date
I asked him to measure this distance-
To be sure its the right one and didn't get an answer either
OP
sorry guys, trying to keep up with all of the messages.
The measurement of the blue lines isn't entirely "fair" anymore cause the ring gear bearing is no longer on the locker, but there is a .20 delta, the locker is taller.
Currently my suspicion lies in the bearing. As @Blackjack pointed out, the 1314 is 1.872mm "thicker" than the 1310 -both using the LM501349 bearing. I'm not 100% sure that's the problem but it does seem like it would allow the locker to move over and I could shim it into place.
I sent off to ARB months ago with the following picture and they thought it was a RD31. additionally I am told a RD30 would not physically allow the ring gear to fit onto the locker due to a larger inner diameter
The measurement of the blue lines isn't entirely "fair" anymore cause the ring gear bearing is no longer on the locker, but there is a .20 delta, the locker is taller.
Currently my suspicion lies in the bearing. As @Blackjack pointed out, the 1314 is 1.872mm "thicker" than the 1310 -both using the LM501349 bearing. I'm not 100% sure that's the problem but it does seem like it would allow the locker to move over and I could shim it into place.
The -N is just a designator that Koyo uses. You can use lm501310 or lm501314 with the lm501349 I prefer not to mix brands but for the sake of getting an initial setting it will get you by. The lm501310 is .073 thinner which I bet will give you the room you need.
OP
it might not be the "right way" but its probably going to be what gets done to at least try and get this locker in
My money is on the locker being a RD30 and not the RD31. I hope you prove me wrong though.
OP
In the interest of helping the next guy, here's how it wen't down.
I wound up with 1310 bearing races on both side, this allowed me to scoot the ring gear over far enough to the passenger that I had backlash with the caps installed and no shims (huge air gap on the drivers side) I then measured the gap, installed an according amount of shims and had it bracketed and set with less than 5 trips in and out of the diff (as @hosejockey61 described earlier).I wound up with .005 backlash, which is a little tight of the 6-10 thou target, but I'm told the RD30 series likes to run a little tighter on backlash and its all I could get with the pattern looking nice. I did wind up with just shy of .250 in shims on the drivers side and none on the passenger, this is a little excessive of what I wanted, but it works.
Things were going swimmingly until in a rush, I over torqued the air fitting (much to my fathers dismay)
So, we have that capped temporarily, taking care to not expose the copper tubing to the elements while I wait on a replacement bulk head kit to arrive.
It's definitely not a professional install, but she passed the test drive and I learned a lot on the way. Thanks for all the help and especially to @Blackjack for the brilliant bearing recommendation. I'm not sure it is technically correct, but it was the difference in me getting this installed and not.
I wound up with 1310 bearing races on both side, this allowed me to scoot the ring gear over far enough to the passenger that I had backlash with the caps installed and no shims (huge air gap on the drivers side) I then measured the gap, installed an according amount of shims and had it bracketed and set with less than 5 trips in and out of the diff (as @hosejockey61 described earlier).I wound up with .005 backlash, which is a little tight of the 6-10 thou target, but I'm told the RD30 series likes to run a little tighter on backlash and its all I could get with the pattern looking nice. I did wind up with just shy of .250 in shims on the drivers side and none on the passenger, this is a little excessive of what I wanted, but it works.
Things were going swimmingly until in a rush, I over torqued the air fitting (much to my fathers dismay)
So, we have that capped temporarily, taking care to not expose the copper tubing to the elements while I wait on a replacement bulk head kit to arrive.
It's definitely not a professional install, but she passed the test drive and I learned a lot on the way. Thanks for all the help and especially to @Blackjack for the brilliant bearing recommendation. I'm not sure it is technically correct, but it was the difference in me getting this installed and not.
I'm not going to lie, I had my doubts. Do you have a pic of the drive side of the teeth with any kind of pattern? Hopefully the bevel of the new race is a match...time will tell! How was you carrier preload? Hopefully it's as tight as you can get it. That version of ARB needs it to keep the retaining bolts from breaking.
OP
ya know, at the time I was thinking that was the drive side, but now that I'm looking at it- no. that's the best picture I have, and it doesn't have a very good pattern. Carrier pre-load was pretty right, definitely no wiggle by hand and I had to tap the locker in, so I'll take it.
I was skeptical myself, and we'll see how long she lasts. I don't imagine I will be on these axles forever, I would like to do a proper supper 35 and swap to a 44 with better gear ratios eventually until then, I think this will serve me well.