REAL WORLD COMPARISON: OEM Anti-Sway Bar w/ Disconnects vs. Antirock Off-Road Sway Bar vs. SwayLOC Dual Rate Anti Swaybar System

Level at the mid point of the suspension travel.
Correct, just giving him the starting point as per the instructions. I’d hate for him to go off-road and have them flip.

Edit: It now looks like he's read the rest of the instructions.
 
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Further inspection of my rig tells me i need to shorten my links. They are digging into my inner fender pretty good where they are currently.
 
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The AR should be angled up around 10-14*, not level.
Level at the mid point of the suspension travel.
That's to keep it out of the tires when turning and to prevent the links from flipping the arm around at droop. If he's not having those issues, level is fine.
Mine ended at 8º up.

Further inspection of my rig tells me i need to shorten my links. They are digging into my inner fender pretty good where they are currently.


My AR arms were at a 10º angle which resulted in minor contact with the driver's side fender about 7" rearward of the pivot point - which clearanced itself over time. For the SwayLOC I shortened the end links 3/4", which I calculated would still leave the arms as high as possible without contact with the inner fender and which resulted in a 6º angle and no possibility of inverting the end links from being too long.


Antirock and SwayLOC owners alike may find value in this paragraph from the SwayLOC installation instructions:

NOTE: When selecting the linkage length, please make the links as long as possible so that the arms are as far away from the tires as possible. The worst case scenario is when the tires are turned toward the arms, and that tire is stuffed. If the tire contacts the arm, damage may result as the lug will grab the arm and push or pull it side to side. If the arm is adjusted as far as possible from the tire, contact will not happen. The one thing to watch, as the tire compresses, the arm will move upward to the inner fender and MAY make contact with the arm. You can shorten the linkage to clear that contact, or you can clearance the inner fender support to gain clearance. Either way, keep the arms off of the tires!!

Also, on some short height applications, or on deep backspacing wheels with smaller tires, it may be necessary to move the passenger side rod end to the inside of the SwayLOCTM arm, as the rod end may contact the tire as well.


https://offroadonly.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/SwayLOC-TJ-Manual.pdf
 
^^^

This sums up why it truly is a better mousetrap.
It’s shocking. I have the added bonus of a 100# hardshell tent and a 100# Smitty rack up high. Even with stiffer ProComp springs the stock bar had some body roll. Now the front end is so planted I want to look at a larger bar for the rear.
 
It’s shocking. I have the added bonus of a 100# hardshell tent and a 100# Smitty rack up high. Even with stiffer ProComp springs the stock bar had some body roll. Now the front end is so planted I want to look at a larger bar for the rear.
The fucking springs have nothing to do with it, ever.
 
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It’s shocking. I have the added bonus of a 100# hardshell tent and a 100# Smitty rack up high. Even with stiffer ProComp springs the stock bar had some body roll. Now the front end is so planted I want to look at a larger bar for the rear.
Hellwig makes a couple different bars that are adjustable if I recall correctly.

https://www.hellwigproducts.com/products/search-by-vehicle/?Year1=2006&Make=Jeep&Model=Wrangler
Though I wonder if a Swayloc could be adapted for the rear similar to how the rear Antirock fits.
 
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@Mr. Bills if you didn’t have the budget for the swayloc. Would you install the currie antirock ? Or just use disconnects?

I am asking for a TJ that is 2.5” lifted with 31” tires.
Use: Daily driver, highway travel/speeds and off road use.

* That question is also for anyone else who has the experience
 
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For a mildly lifted TJ daily driver on 31's I would probably be inclined to use traditional disconnects.

I would start thinking about Antirocks and Swaylocs only after modifying for 33" or larger tires. However, knowing what I know now about the Swayloc I wouldn't settle for an Antirock.
 
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For a mildly lifted TJ daily driver on 31's I would probably be inclined to use traditional disconnects.

I would start thinking about Antirocks and Swaylocs only after modifying for 33" or larger tires. However, knowing what I know now about the Swayloc I wouldn't settle for an Antirock.
100% agree
Disco and save for a Swauloc
 
For a mildly lifted TJ daily driver on 31's I would probably be inclined to use traditional disconnects.

I would start thinking about Antirocks and Swaylocs only after modifying for 33" or larger tires. However, knowing what I know now about the Swayloc I wouldn't settle for an Antirock.
Thanks for the reply!

Well, I cannot find Swayloc anywhere in my local market. And the cost is way out of my budget.
So, there is not Swayloc vs Antirock for me.

My main dilemma was disconnects vs Antirock. I'm seeing myself running 31" for the next years and possibly going 33" max in the future. But was not sure if it's worth installing in a rig thats not dedicated only to off road!
 
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100% agree
Disco and save for a Swauloc
I don't see myself buying a Swayloc. Cost, since I dont live in USA is absurd.
Antirock would be also a bit expensive for me, but it would be a sacrifice I could afford if I didn't have any problems daily driving it and traveling @ 70-75 mph