REAL WORLD COMPARISON: OEM Anti-Sway Bar w/ Disconnects vs. Antirock Off-Road Sway Bar vs. SwayLOC Dual Rate Anti Swaybar System

Well, if you swapped the Swayloc the logo would be upside down - and that just would not work for me. ‘Cause ya know I’m all about the bling…

Seriously though, I just took a look at mine. I think the issue is the inner arm clearing the mounting bolts for the steering gear. After a quick measurement it looks like it would just clear, but my guess is that any side pressure on the arm would cause it to hit.
My feelings as well.
I already had plans on getting new stickers from Steve if it was possible. :)

MrBlaine's recessed steering bolts came to mind as I remember reading that thread.
 
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Fair enough. I guess that only leaves the upside down logo as a problem….:)
If you remove the sticker then there is no upside down logo.
What was the reason you recessed the bolts there, Blaine?
We have had many issues with destroying the front AR arms in 3/8" thickness under high articulation. The solution was a stiffer arm in the 3/4" thickness out of aluminum they have for the rear AR. The reason they come in 3/8" is to clear the steering gear bolt heads. If the bolt heads are not in the way, you can run a thicker arm.
 
What brought me to this thread was a near miss in the road a few weeks ago…

I was cruising down the road at about 45-50mph early one morning with very light traffic. Another driver attempted to make a left in front of me and froze halfway in my lane. I had to swerve hard into the next lane to avoid her and gained a true understanding of body roll.

I have since been thinking about adjusting my anti rock to a more street friendly setting or possibly replacing it with a sway loc. After reading this thread, I think a manual version of the sway loc is in my future.
 
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What brought me to this thread was a near miss in the road a few weeks ago…

I was cruising down the road at about 45-50mph early one morning with very light traffic. Another driver attempted to make a left in front of me and froze halfway in my lane. I had to swerve hard into the next lane to avoid her and gained a true understanding of body roll.

I have since been thinking about adjusting my anti rock to a more street friendly setting or possibly replacing it with a sway loc. after reading this thread, I think a manual version of the sway loc is in my future.
If the on-road is your biggest concern then you really should consider the Sway-Loc, the AR can’t come close to the on-road of the SL because it’s lighter than stock. Mine is set at the lightest setting for off-road and still gives me a firmer than stock on-road ride and that’s with 4+ inches of lift and 35’s aired to 25 psi. At the flip of a switch I get this’

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If the on-road is your biggest concern then you really should consider the Sway-Loc, the AR can’t come close to the on-road of the SL, it’s lighter than stock. Mine is set at the lightest setting for off-road and still gives me a firmer than stock on-road ride and that’s with 4+ inches of lift and 35’s aired to 25 psi. At the flip of a switch I get this’

View attachment 324897
I appreciate you sharing… At this point in my Jeeps life it is used my by my kids to hop in and take it their friends to the beach or my wife to run across town and enjoy the sunshine than it is used on the trails. So yes, onroad is more important today but I don’t want to lose the offroad capability when the occasion pops up…
 
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I have also had all three, and I concur with the above. I wish I had gone straight to the Swayloc when I added a lift instead of the Antirock.

Even with three 70 lb canoes, another 100 lbs of other gear on the roof rack, full gas cans, a full rear cargo rack, gear shoved in every crevice, and 4 adult passengers, it helps minimize body roll especially on the freeway.
View attachment 221720

I will caution you that it will not stop you from lifting the front left tire on tight turns, but it will reduce how far up it goes.

I do also have airbags in all four coils which also makes a significant impact, but more so on the weight squat and braking/acceleration dive than roll.
What brand of rack is that?
 
Nice presentation! New to the forum. Is the Swayloc for both the front and rear? Also, looking at the 4" Savvy lift. Does the Swayloc work well with this lift?
 
does Sway-Loc make a rear for the tj or is it only the front?

Does everyone leave the rear stock?

I have the anti rock front and rear.

I would keep the OEM rear unless you have a reason to need an aftermarket rear. I broke my rear once and replaced with another OEM. Ended up replacing with a rear anti rock because I got a Currie 60 rear and the OEM didn't fit anymore.
 
I have the anti rock front and rear.

I would keep the OEM rear unless you have a reason to need an aftermarket rear. I broke my rear once and replaced with another OEM. Ended up replacing with a rear anti rock because I got a Currie 60 rear and the OEM didn't fit anymore.
Is the stock sway bar stiffer on the road than the Antirock?
 
Is the stock sway bar stiffer on the road than the Antirock?

I only bought the rear because the OEM didn't fit anymore. Didn't notice a difference on road.

The front is very noticeable on road and off. It works great for off road and eliminates the need to disconnect, but noticeable body roll on road. The sway lock is definitely better for on road driving, probably buy it someday.
 
If the on-road is your biggest concern then you really should consider the Sway-Loc, the AR can’t come close to the on-road of the SL because it’s lighter than stock. Mine is set at the lightest setting for off-road and still gives me a firmer than stock on-road ride and that’s with 4+ inches of lift and 35’s aired to 25 psi. At the flip of a switch I get this’

View attachment 324897
What are you using for an air supply ? I currently have a York OBA and thinking I could just add a tee and a regulator to lower the pressure to supply air to the SL